Marks exhaust fitting instructions

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bazwell

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I can't find any posts detailing how to fit up the Marks 4-2 system.

I guess it's straight forward, but I know the frustration (and damage :rofl_200:) that comes from doing things the wrong way around.


Is there an order that is best? Do the rear engine pipes go on first? Do they cross over? Will I be able to ride it straight away? I have a jet kit coming but it will be a few weeks till I see it.
 
I've never done a Marks, only OEM and slip-ons, but, I'd say put on the rear headers first, then the front, leaving the connections loose at the cylinders so you have room to move the ends to fit into the mufflers. Then slip the mufflers on and attach them, and finally tighten everything up.

I think you'll be able to ride no problem at all, it just won't be 'optimally tuned', so will prolly run a bit rich. I would love to be there when you do the jet kit, always wanted to see one in person and find out what works best. You got a dyno to go to in order to get an accurate a/f ratio reading?
 
Once you get the old exhaust off (this was harder than installing my Marks) remove the old gaskets or at least check them.
The rear pipes will be a little harder to put on as you have to figure out which pipe goes where, but if you lay out the exhaust on the floor it will be self evident.
Do not tighten any of the bolts other than to hold them in place loosely. Fit all of the parts and align properly, again this alignment process will be straight forward.
Once all parts are aligned time to install the springs and carefully tighten the bolts a little at a time, carefully checking to make sure the gaskets are seating evenly.
If you're sure they are seating properly you can do the final torquing of the bolts.
That's it, fire it up to hear some sweet music!
This is kinda off the top of my head but I've removed my exhaust 3 times for a yearly cleaning/ polishing and is remembered to the best of my knowledge.
Good luck and enjoy the rumble!
 
is there any sealant required for exhaust leaks where the pipes come together
 
I didnt use any sealant. The joints fit together nice and tight, no leaks.

As noted, lay it out on the floor so you can see what goes where. I did rear cyl's first, then front, then collectors, then cans. Make sure you take note of the the tabs welded on the pipes for the springs. The tabs face the inside of the bike. As noted, dont tighten till its all together.

I rode the bike around for some time with zero carb changes. It popped a bit when coasting with the throttle closed. No big deal, it ran fine.

Be sure to clean the pipes of any grease, oil, fingerprints, etc with something like denatured alcohol before firing it up.
 
i take it, your set finally arrived :).

ya it's straight forward. just like the guys said earier. i didn't use any sealant, either. i did add a spacer to the left side can holder, because i didn't like the way my set rubbed the shock. i did enlist my daughter to hold up a side at one point, though--I forget why, though. I ran mine straight away. I only started messing with the jets because I changed to a Stage 7 kit after a quick run around town to enjoy my new pipes. the hardest part is removing the OEM system.

DON'T FORGET TO START THE BIKE WITHOUT ANY OF HEADERS AND CANS BEFORE YOU BOLT ON THE NEW ONE. you won't regret if you do and wished that you had if you didn't.
 
I have put them on now. :rocket bike:

After fitting them, it has become very apparent that these pipes are awesome quality!

Things I found -
- Use new gaskets
- Fit the engine pipes and just nip the bolts up while wiggling the pipes
(This put the outlets in about the right spot for the mid pipes, and you can still move the headers.)
- Fit one mid pipe enough that it stays on, not all the way.
- Fit the other mid pipe - the hardest part - fit the cross over pipe as best you can before the other 2.
- Using a rubber mallet gently tap on the outlet of the mid pipes, and side to side in line with the cross over pipe to get it tightened it up as much as you can.
- Fit the first 4 springs. I found the edge of a smallish flat screwdriver was best. This is also the hardest part.
- Tighten the engine flange nuts and repeat the tapping.
- Loosen the engine flange nuts and repeat the tapping.
- Standing behind the bike tap the mid pipes side to side in line with the cross over pipe (and up and down as well) to get the outlets in the right position.
- Tighten the flange nuts up properly, gradually.
- Tap some more. Get it even Steven.
- Offer the mufflers up to the outlets with the mounting plate vertical and work out if the outlets are in the right spot. If it's all straight and completely slid together you can just (just!) get the mufflers on and the bolts will go in.
- Fit the last 4 springs.

Mine fits as tight as a fishes ass, and after a bit of patient light tapping with Mr Rubberhead, the mufflers are perfectly aligned.

Minors glitches - It looks like I'm supposed to fit the rubber from the centre stand to the cross over pipe, but the hole is too small and needs to be drilled out. Also the foot pad for the centre stand hit the can. That could be from the stand being bent, it's been over on that side before.

It started easy, sounds AWESOME, and idled OK. (Except now I can really hear the carbs need a balance).
Will maybe ride it later today after I replace a leaky fork seal.
 
I have put them on now. :rocket bike:
Welcome to the proud owners club!
congrats12.gif
 
It started easy, sounds AWESOME, and idled OK. (Except now I can really hear the carbs need a balance).
Will maybe ride it later today after I replace a leaky fork seal.

Awesome Baz, great to hear it's all worked out for you. Also, I'll be home on the 17th, and I'm bringing back my sync tool, just in case you haven't got one :biglaugh:
 
I didn't have any issue with the centerstand rubber, that I can remember anyways. :confused2:
Knowing that I probably used a bit-o-spit to make it go on. :biglaugh:
 
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