Master cyl options?

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BeardedMax

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My clutch master was rebuild a year ago, it started leaking recently so I rebuild it again. Again it still leaks so I am now in the market for a new master as I don’t want to rebuild it again since I believe the bore is messed up causing the leaks. It leaks when the clutch is pulled in. My question is. Are there any options for aftermarket cheaper masters for our bikes that don’t cost the 135 I seen the Yamaha one going for? Seems a bit high as I see sets going on Amazon for 35 (quality who knows). Just looking for a more budget friendly option. Any input would be greatly appreciated thanks.
 

Fire-medic

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Match the aftermarket one to the OEM 5/8" bore & you should be good.

This is how I clean-up a master cyl bore if I choose to rebuild it. Peel & stick round sanding discs.

Honda SOHC brake master cyl bore sanding.jpg
 
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patate657

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My clutch master was rebuild a year ago, it started leaking recently so I rebuild it again. Again it still leaks so I am now in the market for a new master as I don’t want to rebuild it again since I believe the bore is messed up causing the leaks. It leaks when the clutch is pulled in. My question is. Are there any options for aftermarket cheaper masters for our bikes that don’t cost the 135 I seen the Yamaha one going for? Seems a bit high as I see sets going on Amazon for 35 (quality who knows). Just looking for a more budget friendly option. Any input would be greatly appreciated thanks.
This what I put on mine. Just got the matching one for the Brake side. Ordered the set for my v65 also.
P9200003.JPG

 
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02GF74

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Many people have fitted XJR1300 clutch master so that it matches the brake master, and they fitted the latter for use with blue spot 4 piston callipers.

Sadly these are rarer to find than VMax items.

Any part can be fixed, depending on the damage, a clean up of the bore (FM way) may be enough else the bore can be reserved, but the cost may not make that economical.

If a master cylinder can be found that moves the same volume of fluid as the original part (bore x stroke) and handle bar fitting is the same, then there are probably many types available, including the modern lightweight designs that have separate reservoir. I have not looked into this so cannot suggest anything but I'm sure there'll be posters on this forum that have done this.

I need to check the manual, but something else to bear in mind is that I believe the clutch has switch that is part of the interlock to kill the engine when trying to pull away with the sidestand down.

Good luck in fixing this.
 

Fire-medic

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something else to bear in mind is that I believe the clutch has switch that is part of the interlock to kill the engine when trying to pull away with the sidestand down.
Easily bypassed in the wire loom if the replacement master cyl doesn't have a switch. Of course, you lose the safety of that feature if you bypass the circuit hookup to a switch.
 

BeardedMax

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This what I put on mine. Just got the matching one for the Brake side. Ordered the set for my v65 also.
View attachment 79848

I went ahead and ordered this as my clutch lever was very sloppy anyways and can’t really beat the price with the warranty they provide. Thanks for the link and all the info everyone much appreciated
 

02GF74

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Sloppy clutch lever you say?
Common problem, the hole wears out.
Solution is to drill out to 10mm and fit a split bush - a search will reveal how I did it.

Others fit a roll pin bearing but that requires a 6mm bolt instead of the original 8 mm, something I did not want to do.

... no use for you ofcourse but maybe to someone else.
 

Fire-medic

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It appears to be something which would work; like anything having to do with power delivery or brakes, test your repair thoroughly before taking it out on the road, into traffic. $25 and free USA shipping, sounds like a good price point. I hope an experienced member can take a close look at the components and see if it appears to be a quality piece.
 

Julian Tomkins

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at that price it's probably made in China, can you get replacement levers for their master cylinders should you have a bit of a mis-hap,
I fitted a genuine XJR1300 item to my bike which I bought complete with adjustable lever for £30
 

patate657

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It appears to be something which would work; like anything having to do with power delivery or brakes, test your repair thoroughly before taking it out on the road, into traffic. $25 and free USA shipping, sounds like a good price point. I hope an experienced member can take a close look at the components and see if it appears to be a quality piece.
Road my vmax for an afternoon before parking it, with this installed on the clutch side. Worked very well for me. Good tight pressure and smooth shifting. Will be installing the Front Brake side assy today, even though I'm not able to ride it for now.
 

BeardedMax

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So I got this today and installed it. Initial impressions are pretty good. It’s a little different thatn the stock on. The banjo instead of being on connecting towards the front tire connects on the side. I think this looks better. The sight glass faces you so you can see it’s level while you’re riding. Another plus. Comes with all new hardware except copper washers for the banjo. Metal and build quality seem to be pretty decent. The action of his it works to press the piston is a bit different. (Excuse me for not knowing all the technical terms) instead of the lever depressing a rod and spring that then depresses the piston in the master the lever just presses on the piston or so it appears. Less parts to wear I think. But overall for 25$ I am pretty impressed. We will see how long it lasts. But for anyone in the future looking for a cheap option to get back on the road I would recommend this as of right now. Only like 5$ more than a rebuild kit. Just my initial impressions. Again thanks everyone for the input
 

patate657

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So I got this today and installed it. Initial impressions are pretty good. It’s a little different thatn the stock on. The banjo instead of being on connecting towards the front tire connects on the side. I think this looks better. The sight glass faces you so you can see it’s level while you’re riding. Another plus. Comes with all new hardware except copper washers for the banjo. Metal and build quality seem to be pretty decent. The action of his it works to press the piston is a bit different. (Excuse me for not knowing all the technical terms) instead of the lever depressing a rod and spring that then depresses the piston in the master the lever just presses on the piston or so it appears. Less parts to wear I think. But overall for 25$ I am pretty impressed. We will see how long it lasts. But for anyone in the future looking for a cheap option to get back on the road I would recommend this as of right now. Only like 5$ more than a rebuild kit. Just my initial impressions. Again thanks everyone for the input
That's also one of the things I liked. Site-Glass being on the inside is good. Best for the one who needs it, sees it... ;)
 

vmax425

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02GF74 wrote:
“Many people have fitted XJR1300 clutch master so that it matches the brake master, and they fitted the latter for use with blue spot 4 piston callipers.”

How did they get the clutch master to work on a Gen 1?
I tried it but with the smaller 14mm bore, there wasn’t enough clutch leaver stroke to disengage the clutch.
 

02GF74

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I believe Julian Tomkins has done this, I'm sure he will update once he sees this.
 

Fire-medic

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I believe different years have different bores, You might try using 'advanced search' as it's been posted-about here with a legend of 'what year for what bore size.'
 

Julian Tomkins

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not sure of the actual years but the 'early' model master cylinder works, possibly up to 2003 ?, mine is from a 2002,
I actually didn't realise they had changed until I ordered a new clutch lever and found it didn't fit
 
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