May have found a cheap coil/wire replacement option

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UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE

Got a set of R1 COPs off ebay. $20 (shipped)
Please by all means get an OEM wiring harness for it. It will be light years ahead of what you can make on your own. Harnes $30 shipped.
Spent about an hour last night putting it all together. I cut the ends off the factory harness and spliced in, with weather proof marine splices, the coil plugs. Didnt like the idea of using spade connectors to the factory harness. Wanted a tight seal. Plus I work right on the beach. The salt air can be a nightmare on electrical stuff.

Initial report...
Cold starting is much easier.
No perceived seat of the pants power but...Greatly Improved Throttle response through the entire rev range. Found a empty stretch of road today, hard to do in So Cal, and let her rip. Felt really good.

As far as the vibration issue. I grabbed a set of 3/4 o-rings and slid them on the COPs. It doesnt totally keep the COP from moving back and forth but it does take up much of the gap between the COP and the head limiting how far it can move back and forth. I am going to find some rubber gasket material at work and make a sleeve to fit around them for better vibration dampening, also for electrical insulation. Reason being while I was testing it last night one of the kids took a ratchet and pointed at the COP asking what I was doing and a spark jumped off the COP and to the ratchet. Well it was pretty funny to see the kid jump as the spark went to ground :rofl_200::rofl_200: but after seeing that I want to make sure it doesnt short out to the block or head.

No report for gas mileage yet but will let you all know.

I do have one question though for you experts
I noticed on one of the pics posted by BirdoPrey that he took the wires for the right front coil and wired it to the right front cylinder. I noticed last night while I was wiring it up the right coil actually goes to the left cylinder. I thought that the only times a coil fires is when the pickup coil tells the TCI to interupt the signal so the coil can discharge (go to ground) for that particular cylinder. Yet in his video it ran just fine. What am I missing here???:ummm::confused2::ummm:
 
Fargo, I switched mine to do the same thing. You just switch the coils around while keeping the same harness leads. If you swapped harness leads then it would indeed run very badly. Let us know how your mileage goes with the COP's. Pictures would be cool too. :)
 
Glad someone was able to test it! Got my wider wheel in but it was missing a spacer, so i'm still dead in the water. Should have it by the weekend...i hope!
BTW, the COP or "Coil sticks" as they are usually called on bikes need to be pressed down pretty tightly on the spark plugs. The rubber boot fits pretty snug on the plug and can give a false impression of it being tight on the tip of the plug threads. Also, check closly that there are no cracks in your Coil sticks. I would not think that any spark should jump. The coil sticks are within 1/4"(on all sides) of the Busa/GSXR/R-1 etc when in the stk heads. If spark jumping was a problem, this would cause a probem in the stk setups.
I did not have the front coil sticks wired to the harness on the same side. I had mine crossed. I first wired it up that way and it ran like crap(missing and popping). Then i realized that the coils fed the opposite cyl up front and re-did mine. The pic's were taken after i swithed it.
You noticed quicker startup too, huh? Throttle response seemed better to me too, but did'nt get to check on the road.
Did you rev it up to redline?
 
Glad someone was able to test it! Got my wider wheel in but it was missing a spacer, so i'm still dead in the water. Should have it by the weekend...i hope!
BTW, the COP or "Coil sticks" as they are usually called on bikes need to be pressed down pretty tightly on the spark plugs. The rubber boot fits pretty snug on the plug and can give a false impression of it being tight on the tip of the plug threads. Also, check closly that there are no cracks in your Coil sticks. I would not think that any spark should jump. The coil sticks are within 1/4"(on all sides) of the Busa/GSXR/R-1 etc when in the stk heads. If spark jumping was a problem, this would cause a probem in the stk setups.
I did not have the front coil sticks wired to the harness on the same side. I had mine crossed. I first wired it up that way and it ran like crap(missing and popping). Then i realized that the coils fed the opposite cyl up front and re-did mine. The pic's were taken after i swithed it.
You noticed quicker startup too, huh? Throttle response seemed better to me too, but did'nt get to check on the road.
Did you rev it up to redline?

Nope didnt take it to red line just over 9k so pretty close.
There are no cracks in the coils I got. I am just being extra caustious since the COPs have no other place to attach to then the tip of the spark plug. I am sure you have noticed that they have 2 o-rings at the top for a hole they are supposed to fit into and keep them secure. We dont have that option so just to be extra safe I put my own fat ass o-ring around them to limit how far the can move back and forth.
Thanks for this mod. Even the GF said it sounded better, "More even" is what she said.
Cheap and simple.
Cheers
 
With the way the cop's fit, i'm not concerened about vibration. No problem being extra cautious though.

I've been doing some look'n on Ebay and may have some slightly cheaper options on the coil sticks and wiring harnesses. I'm picking up some and will check to make sure they will work. Think i found some interesting tid-bits which will prolly help others out later. I'll have to get them in my hands to make sure first though.
 
This is a great idea and I'm surprised no one has submitted an award request for Birdoprey to get the modmonkey award! So I have given him the Modmonkey award as I think this will be a common mod on the VMax.
 
Hello,

I think somebody already suggested the Mod Monkey for him in some earlier page. Anyway - it is definitely well deserved! The idea is excellent.
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My cousin had to replace this type of coils for his Audi A4 a while ago, and the service cheaf there told him that this type of coils must be treated very carefully in order not to damage them - especially when pulling them out. They had actually some special tool for that, as it was essential to pull them out in exactly straight position. But the cost was really not so bad, maybe like 40 euros each or something (for original Audi stuff).
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Regards,

AT
 
Mike, it was in a previous post in this thread.

COP Primary resistance= 1.4 Ohms

COP Secondary resistance= 13.22 KiloOhms(same measured on both pins)

Stk coil Primary=3.0 Ohms

Stk coil Secondary=13.13 KiloOhms(same measured on both pins)
progress.gif


 
Mike, it was in a previous post in this thread.

COP Primary resistance= 1.4 Ohms

COP Secondary resistance= 13.22 KiloOhms(same measured on both pins)

Stk coil Primary=3.0 Ohms

Stk coil Secondary=13.13 KiloOhms(same measured on both pins)
progress.gif

Seems as if all COPs are not made equal. The set I picked up was from an R1 and the secondary was 10.8 kohms. Not much different from the 13.2 but both are huge step over the stocks. Put almost 80 miles on today and no EMI/RFI interference I could tell of.
Had the bike dynoed today. Still pulled the same as when Sean built it for me back in June (130hp) so there was no HP improvement. But damn if it just doesnt feel smooothher :biglaugh: Even the guy at the dyno said it was one of the best running V-Maxes he has dynoed. I attribute that to all the guys on here and the awesome knowledge that is freely given on a daily basis.
Thanks to all.
Cheers :punk:
 
Well, looking at a Haybusa Service manual, the spec's for the factory COP's are as follows:

Primary resistance: .8 - 1.2 Ohm(+tap to -tap)
Secondary resistance: 8 - 15 KiloOhms(Plug cap to -tap)

Soooo, it looks like there is a decent margin as far as the COP's

BTW, this is from a 2000 model service manual. Later models may be different, though i don't imagine by much...
 
thanks there bird-i read the whole thread i thought musta missed it.let us know how yours runs when you get your wheel spacers sorted.thanks mike
 
Hope the spacer shows up tomorrow! Gonna be a LOUD ride. I sent the mid-pipe to Mark to move the crossover tube to clear my braced swing arm. All i got is 4 open pipes right now. Sounds absolutely wicked! Hope it does'nt attract too much attention...
 
Also wanted to note: My bike has not been cranked in over two weeks. This evening, i turned choke on full and hit the started and the bike started right up, no throttle or anything. No spitting or sputtering at all. This is a huge improvement compared to the stk coil setup, at least on my bike.
 
Have a source that is getting me an OEM R1 harness for the COP's. It looks to be quite reasonable. Now to search Ebay for some used COP units:biglaugh:
 
I've bought two sets of COP's for $20 shipped each. Think i found a wiring harness for Just under $20 shipped. As soon as it shows, i'll know for sure. I'm almost positive, but wanna have it in my hands. I'm mixing and matching to get the cheapest sets.
I'll offer these up for what i've got in them plus shipping as soon as i have complete sets. I've got one set already called for though.
Of course, i'll wanna take a test ride and make sure for my self that all is ok. Someone has already road tested theirs and had no issues. Looks to be very promissing...
 

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