sdt354
Well-Known Member
Had a similar problem with the Mitzubishi cops, I understand there was a recall on some of them. Just switched to Denzo's from a gsxr1000 on Gannon's advice. Best $39 I ever spent.
Steve-o
Steve-o
May have found a cheap coil/wire replacement option
- Thread starter Birdoprey
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RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
What was the actual difference switching from the Mitsu's to Denso? Did the harness connectors for the mitsu's match with the denso sticks? My setup came from a R6, with Mitsus and the original factory harness connectors.
sdt354
Well-Known Member
The Mitzubishi and Denso are the same. Can vouch for that.
Steve-o
RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
I've noticed going through ebay listings for "gsxr coil" there's a few versions of the Denso coil sticks. 03 and older have a white/black label on top and are stamped "JO396". Seems like 04-07 have a white/blue label on top and are stamped "JO480". Sticks that came off a Honda are "JO484". 08-up look a little different (the body is gray instead of black), they don't have the label, and instead have "JO514" etched on the side by the connector. Honda's are marked "JO515". The new style seem to be a bit more expensive across the board, usually about $50 for a set of four instead of ~$30 for the older style.
Honda and Suzuki have always used Densos(with slightly varying part numbers), everything for Kawi is Mitsubishi, and everything 03-up Yamaha is Mitsu as well.
Also....I googled a bit and found that Yamaha did do a "factory upgrade" on COPs in 2003 on the sportbikes...except it was that the Denso ones were bad, and they were replaced with Mitsu's (which they still use to this day). The "white label" densos were prone to causing misfires. I guess there's another issue with some current Warriors getting their coil sticks replaced as well.
Probably go with the newer ones....
Honda and Suzuki have always used Densos(with slightly varying part numbers), everything for Kawi is Mitsubishi, and everything 03-up Yamaha is Mitsu as well.
Also....I googled a bit and found that Yamaha did do a "factory upgrade" on COPs in 2003 on the sportbikes...except it was that the Denso ones were bad, and they were replaced with Mitsu's (which they still use to this day). The "white label" densos were prone to causing misfires. I guess there's another issue with some current Warriors getting their coil sticks replaced as well.
Probably go with the newer ones....
Redbone
Well-Known Member
I run a set of '08 R1 COPs and have had no issues with them, they are the shorter style. I think I paid $35 in the summer of 2010 off of Ebay.
RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
I just grabbed a set of '09 GSXR600 sticks off ebay for $35 shipped, see if they help at all.
gennro
Well-Known Member
I have a set of denso I just bought with wiring harness. I believe these are from a honda. All measured around 1.3 to 1.6 k-ohms on primary and 14~ K-ohms on secondary. Well worth it mod. All 4 of my stock coils had big cracks in them even at 13k miles.
rollin thunder
Well-Known Member
I have decided to do this mod. I broke a plug end, and by the time I bother with fixing that, I may as well spend the extra $20 or so and put in COP's.
I already have my wiring harness out and have done a few fixes and mods. It now has t-boost wired into the harness, as it was easy to do and keep it all looking neat. Same would go for the COP's. I have my eye on a set on e-bay with the harness included, so I will solder the wires in and make it permanent, and neat.
My question is regarding the resistors that need to be used.
As I understand it, we are talking about using resistance to try and match the inductive load of the COP's to the old coils. Something like that. Based on some resistance measurements earlier in this thread it would seem that a resistor of about 1.5 - 2.0 ohm would do the trick.
Has anyone done the calculations, or tested resistors? What wattage resistors? I have no idea how much current we are supplying here!
I also get the feeling from another thread that the v-boost controller can be affected as there is some issue with the t-boost mod and the COP mod without resistors.
THIS MOD IS FANTASTIC! VERY COOL THREAD! :clapping::clapping::clapping:
I already have my wiring harness out and have done a few fixes and mods. It now has t-boost wired into the harness, as it was easy to do and keep it all looking neat. Same would go for the COP's. I have my eye on a set on e-bay with the harness included, so I will solder the wires in and make it permanent, and neat.
My question is regarding the resistors that need to be used.
As I understand it, we are talking about using resistance to try and match the inductive load of the COP's to the old coils. Something like that. Based on some resistance measurements earlier in this thread it would seem that a resistor of about 1.5 - 2.0 ohm would do the trick.
Has anyone done the calculations, or tested resistors? What wattage resistors? I have no idea how much current we are supplying here!
I also get the feeling from another thread that the v-boost controller can be affected as there is some issue with the t-boost mod and the COP mod without resistors.
THIS MOD IS FANTASTIC! VERY COOL THREAD! :clapping::clapping::clapping:
ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
baz,
i forget exactly off hand what the recommended wattage is, but i assure you the number is buried underneath the pages of threads on the subject. just wanted to say something, while i hunt for Prez's post where he and another gent finally agreed upon the value.
{edit}
found the posts. apparantly a resistor with a wattage anywhere between 15 and 30 will suffice.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=151812&postcount=28
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=143882&postcount=2
{/edit}
i forget exactly off hand what the recommended wattage is, but i assure you the number is buried underneath the pages of threads on the subject. just wanted to say something, while i hunt for Prez's post where he and another gent finally agreed upon the value.
{edit}
found the posts. apparantly a resistor with a wattage anywhere between 15 and 30 will suffice.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=151812&postcount=28
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=143882&postcount=2
{/edit}
Thank you. :worthy:
I have just learnt that the search engine accepts wild cards!
I did a search on "cop" and got no results earlier today, but "cop*" gets 20 pages.... sheesh!
One of the threads you posted was "COP's Harness....", and I wondered why I didn't find it before. Now I know.
Cheers!
I have just learnt that the search engine accepts wild cards!
I did a search on "cop" and got no results earlier today, but "cop*" gets 20 pages.... sheesh!
One of the threads you posted was "COP's Harness....", and I wondered why I didn't find it before. Now I know.
Cheers!
ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
:worthy: no, thank YOU. I just learned somethin new, myself. Hehehe
regards from my tapatalking android...
ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
Finally did the mod. I am sooooo happy with the leads I made. Here have a look, I posted a pic of them in my "mod" album: http://www.vmaxforum.net/album.php?albumid=570&pictureid=5493
I took out the #1 and #3 OEM ignition coils cuz those were simple enough--even though I had to Easy-Out the screws. I next tackled the front COPs after removing the #2 ignition wire, I decided that I was gonna just leave the front coils in. Well that was until I tried removing #4's wire. The screw cap that secured the wire was on TIGHT. I ended up unbolting everything to get at the coil. So in short, both front ignition coils are out :eusa_dance:...man, what a bitch that was.
The bike's been down for a week, but it fired up nice and quick with the COPs. I suppose a layman would dismiss it or not even be able to tell the difference, but I certainly can tell that the machine sounds and runs stronger. I don't need as much Choke and the bike seems to even warm up quicker.
LOVE LOVE LOVE this mod!
I took out the #1 and #3 OEM ignition coils cuz those were simple enough--even though I had to Easy-Out the screws. I next tackled the front COPs after removing the #2 ignition wire, I decided that I was gonna just leave the front coils in. Well that was until I tried removing #4's wire. The screw cap that secured the wire was on TIGHT. I ended up unbolting everything to get at the coil. So in short, both front ignition coils are out :eusa_dance:...man, what a bitch that was.
The bike's been down for a week, but it fired up nice and quick with the COPs. I suppose a layman would dismiss it or not even be able to tell the difference, but I certainly can tell that the machine sounds and runs stronger. I don't need as much Choke and the bike seems to even warm up quicker.
LOVE LOVE LOVE this mod!
Wicked!
What's the deal with long ones not fitting?? I've ordered some long ones.
And do you have a pic of the resistors you used? Are they under the wire braid?
Prez mounted his onto an aluminium bracket for cooling. Is there any worries about cooling?
I'll ask the other 96 questions later..... :rofl_200:
What's the deal with long ones not fitting?? I've ordered some long ones.
And do you have a pic of the resistors you used? Are they under the wire braid?
Prez mounted his onto an aluminium bracket for cooling. Is there any worries about cooling?
I'll ask the other 96 questions later..... :rofl_200:
ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
long ones fit in all locations. it's just they require a little more "coaxing" in the rear, that's all. yes my resistors are inside the sleeving.
if i remember right, prez is using something like this, so it makes sense to mount them.
i'm using ceramic ones like this.
if you notice that one of my leads is quite long. this is because i have placed the resistors on the two rear leads so that they rest on the plastic rear shield in an attempt to offer them as much air as possible to dissipate their heat.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/album.php?albumid=570&pictureid=5492
the front ones aren't as exposed but the are situated close enough to the fan that i think that they should be fine.
honestly, i don't think there is any GREAT worry about the resistor heat in general. mine are similar to the ones that 88vmax is selling, but he has different resistors which are on the outside of his sleeving. the weave on the sleeving i'm using is VERY VERY loose, so I reckon the aeration is just as good.
I'm getting these, and I can't make up my mind what to do with them.
http://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/PWR221T-30-1R00F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%2bjC5l7YVa7AxR4G2xNl/ATti4Vhzo=
I'm using Mopar cloth electrical tape so I'm considering just hanging them outside the insulation.
http://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/PWR221T-30-1R00F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%2bjC5l7YVa7AxR4G2xNl/ATti4Vhzo=
I'm using Mopar cloth electrical tape so I'm considering just hanging them outside the insulation.
ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
the link no worky
Must be a faulty mouse....
http://au.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=XYAu1o%252bHdOJGOBAldPrG1w%3D%3D
http://au.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=XYAu1o%252bHdOJGOBAldPrG1w%3D%3D
ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
I think you need to find a way to sink the heat.
Power Rating @ 25 ˚C Case Temperature 30 W**
** Power rating of 2.25 W when mounted free to air (no heat sink).
Power Rating @ 25 ˚C Case Temperature 30 W**
** Power rating of 2.25 W when mounted free to air (no heat sink).
