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john rossignol

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1997 vmax engine in 1990 frame ,do the header pipes need to be removed ,to change the motor mount cross member bracket ,for the spin off filter ???
 
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Exactly. Either mod your cross member with a hoop or get the later one. I do have some on hand. Best to email me at [email protected] if I can help.
 
THANK YOU FOR THE INFO ,I got a later model bracket on ebay .I,ll have it a few days ,do the header pipes need to come off ???
 
You should be able to slip the bracket in without taking the header off
 
Hi, This is my first time in a forum. I'm rebuilding a 1989 vmax engine and need to order new bearings for the crank and balance shaft. Some of the bearings lost the color identifying what size. My dog also ran through the garage to chase a cat and slammed into the table that had them in order and sent them flying...grrr anyway the manual shows the numbers for the crank and the balance shaft on the back right side of the engine mount. Issue #1 I only have 4 numbers.. 89 then directly under those numbers are 26. If I look on the left engine mount I can see what looks like numbers. Issue #2 I can't make out the numbers due to them not being engraved deep enough. Does anyone know any other way to find out what bearings I need?
 
Hi, This is my first time in a forum. I'm rebuilding a 1989 vmax engine and need to order new bearings for the crank and balance shaft. Some of the bearings lost the color identifying what size. My dog also ran through the garage to chase a cat and slammed into the table that had them in order and sent them flying...grrr anyway the manual shows the numbers for the crank and the balance shaft on the back right side of the engine mount. Issue #1 I only have 4 numbers.. 89 then directly under those numbers are 26. If I look on the left engine mount I can see what looks like numbers. Issue #2 I can't make out the numbers due to them not being engraved deep enough. Does anyone know any other way to find out what bearings I need?
Can you share the pictures of the bike?
 
Try spraying the area with a universal lubricant/Stoddard solvent like WD-40 and then use a light source angled from the side. the lubricant should flow-into the engravings and the lateral light source should help you to be able to see the engravings. If your bike's paint is really badly-oxidized (that whitish deposit) try a Scotchbrite pad with the universal lubricant/Stoddard solvent to remove the heavy encrustation of oxidation. Wipe it all-clean, and then try the WD-40/lateral lighting.

In this type of circumstance, one way to approach it is to use plastigage to measure your clearances, and then to see where you need to-be for needed clearances. It might be extra work, but it's just time. Replace all the shells wherever, if you aren't sure where they belong, see if once everything is torqued-down, you can manually rotate the crank, you should if you have sufficient clearances. Then you can disassemble it again, and mark the shells as to their locations, and use the plastigage to measure clearances. Yes, that means you need to reassemble the case halves, again. That should get you to be able to order what you need.

If the engine won't turn-over manually, you have an interference and need to start swapping shells and locations on the crank to be able to turn-over the engine manually. Keep a log of what shells are where, to try and get them so the crank turns easily. Once it does, then you can use the plastigage.
 
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