Mounting a 200/50R18 rear tire on a Gen1

[HyperPete]

I bought some new rims with tires. The front is a 130/60R18 and the rear is a 200/50R18. John Furbur told me that they'll bolt right on with minimal modification. Here's a thread to show the progress as I try to get things right.

First, the rims and tires. I think they look pretty nice!

The tires are used, the edges of the rear were already shaved for me. The tire will rub without shaving the edges:

And here's the cush drive side of the rear:

And lastly, here's the old 15" D404 vs the new rim with the 200:

More photos follow.

 

[marsmax85]

Is That without a notched swingarm ?

 

[Traumahawk]

I am subscribing to this thread cause I wanna see how it turns out.

 

[HyperPete]

I'll spare you the dis-assembly process. This is the first time I have worked on a VMax, and everything was straightforward and relatively easy. The only issue I encountered was stripping the hex out of one of the rotor bolts. A little Kroil, a chisel and a punch, and about 5 minutes and I got the bolt out. My local dealer had one in stock so I was good to go!

I mounted the rotors on the new rims, took the bolts which I had already cleaned, used blue Locktite and torqued them down. So far so good.

The front 130/60R18 bolted in place with no problems at all. I did have to unbolt both calipers for clearance, but this was minor.

On the the fun part.

I removed the license plate and unbolted the brake caliper. Next I removed the black metal arm that holds the caliper bracket. Time to mount the wheel!

But it's too wide! I had to let the air out of the tire and spray the sides with soapy water.

I little wiggling and pushing and Voila! It's in place!

But we are not done yet...

 

[marsmax85]

I'm really digging them wheels !!!

 

[1967vmax]

I have been there done that it wont work even with the washer swap plus the washer swap make the bike tracking off since u bought the wheels u need a notched swingarm and the mount a metzler me880 180//55/18 tire. metzler make one of the fatest 180 tires.

 

[Traumahawk]

That 200 looks very nice back there.

 

[HyperPete]

On to the brake rod. John told me that it will rub in the stock position. The fix? move it alongside the mount on the swingarm, use spacers to prevent the bolt from squishing the tabs together and bolt it up.

Here is where it mounts:

and here is how it's going to mount:

I did not feel like going to Home Depot for a spacer, so I scrounged through my nuts and bolts drawer and found a nut that was the perfect fit:

The stock bolt is barely long enough, so I am going to replace it with a longer bolt.

Clearance between the rotor bolts and the caliper bracket is minimal, but it clears!

 

[HyperPete]

I have been there done that it wont work even with the washer swap plus the washer swap make the bike tracking off since u bought the wheels u need a notched swingarm and the mount a metzler me880 180//55/18 tire. metzler make one of the fatest 180 tires.

Well, John says it will work. He seems very knowledgeable on these bikes, and so far everything he's told me has worked perfectly. I have room on the right side, so I am going to try the washer swap. Time will tell!

 

[davesax36]

I think I'm gonna use your technique of brake arm removal to get my 190/50-17 in and out. Good job on this thread and great looking wheels.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4

 

[HyperPete]

Back to the "story."

There's still a problem. The tire is not centered and is rubbing on the left side. There is room on the right. As I stated above, John advised me to remove the washer that used to be between the caliper bracket and the swingarm, grease it lightly, and insert it between the drive and the wheel.

I also need to look at the clearance between the tire and the back fender. I'm uncertain that there is sufficient clearance.

That is going to be tomorrow's task. Here's how it looks from the side. I'll continue this tomorrow!

 

[HyperPete]

Is That without a notched swingarm ?

Yep, swingarm is stock. Hopefully I will not need to have it notched...

 

[HyperPete]

I think I'm gonna use your technique of brake arm removal to get my 190/50-17 in and out. Good job on this thread and great looking wheels.

Thank you. I'll be interested in seeing how the 190 fits too.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

If the washer is put between the rim and the cushion drive it will not allow for you to install teh circlip that holds the cushion against the rim, i don't see a problem there but bare in mind next time you will pull the wheel out it will mess you up when disengaging from the final drive as you pull teh wheel to the right and the cushion not being mated with rim will probably fall behind inside the final drive cogged gear... I had happened to me once due forgetting to install the circlip. Regarding the brake arm i would not do that i would prefer to bend it with the curvature facing out to clear the tire but still bolt it where its supposed to go. That way you will have the arm slanted and it will not fit properly on the caliper bracket...

 

[HyperPete]

If the washer is put between the rim and the cushion drive it will not allow for you to install teh circlip that holds the cushion against the rim, i don't see a problem there but bare in mind next time you will pull the wheel out it will mess you up when disengaging from the final drive as you pull teh wheel to the right and the cushion not being mated with rim will probably fall behind inside the final drive cogged gear... I had happened to me once due forgetting to install the circlip. Regarding the brake arm i would not do that i would prefer to bend it with the curvature facing out to clear the tire but still bolt it where its supposed to go. That way you will have the arm slanted and it will not fit properly on the caliper bracket...

Thank you for the heads up about the washer.
Re: bending the brake arm - it was suggested that I should not bend the arm, but rather mount it as I did so that if (when) I go back to a smaller tire I don't need to bend anything back.

If I find that it does not line up properly I can always bend it and mount it the normal way, but if, in fact, it mates properly, then I am good to go! Once again, time will tell!

Thanks for everyone's input. I hope to be up and running tomorrow, the mod-gods willing...

Oh, a question for you all - the rear pads are getting close to needing to be replaced. Should I go with OEM, or EBC, or something different?

 

[mckzx9]

Pete I installed a 200 on my bike and I have a knotched swing arm. The 200 not only rubbed the swing arm but also every bump I went over it rubbed the rear fender. So I installed a 180 and it all went away. I think the only way to use a 200 is to get a extended swing arm. Wish I would have done that from the beginning. Nice rims by the way

 

[HyperPete]

Pete I installed a 200 on my bike and I have a knotched swing arm. The 200 not only rubbed the swing arm but also every bump I went over it rubbed the rear fender. So I installed a 180 and it all went away. I think the only way to use a 200 is to get a extended swing arm. Wish I would have done that from the beginning. Nice rims by the way

LA-LA-LA-LA-LA!!!! I DON'T HEAR YOU!!! :rofl_200:

Well, if it doesn't work I'll be calling John and asking him to make it right. He assured me it would with no mods, just washer changes.

 

[m-cman]

My 170/60-18 barely clears WITH the washer swap on my stock swingarm. I don't see how a 200 will fit... :confused2:

 

[RMSVMAX]

A 200 IS work to get into a stock swingarm, particularly with lowered shocks...Requires the spacer moved from right to left side, & the fender shifted right to clear as well...

A couple of things to comment on/clear up here:

The clip on the cushdrive does NOT need to be removed to put the washer in between the wheel & the drive...& it's usually a tight fit anyway, so I can't imagine it could/would slide off when removing the wheel...
Tip: With a wide tire, I always install the rear & the wheel/tire together...Slides right in, & I use the axle-slid in from the left side-to keep everything in alignment while I'm getting it in place...

Tracking: I have had 2 diff VMAXers do 'alignments' on their MAXes, & both reported ~10mm offset to the left on a stock bike...Moving the washer (& the offset built into the wheel) brings the tracking CLOSER to 'spot-on', rather than farther out...
(BTW, Anyone who tells you their aftermarket VMAX rear wheels have no offset, either doesn't know, or is just lying...There is no 'free lunch' on this one...)
The fender, however, particularly on a lowered bike, does have to be shifted to the right to clear...There is some play in the mounting, & this 'adjustment' is not noticable when shifted...

Hope this helps

 

[RMSVMAX]

Something else I just noticed in the pics...

With a wide tire like this, & lowered as well,
I would suggest removing the plastic inner fender
(screwed/clipped to the gas tank)