my home work .... windshield

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And no. The arlen ness is very bssic. Cookie cutter. This is art!
Thank you, your words fill me with pride. For me this is passion, love and the desire to create unique details. Thank you very much...
 
I bet not . Powdered stone is easy to press. But very heavy and sticky so the molds must be near perfect and very strong for repeated tampings. I really enjoyed the finish work it was like sculpting with trowel scalpel and spoon. The real art was moldmaking! Thinking inside out and backwsrds! Hell i cant even spell backwards apparently!
 
I bet not . Powdered stone is easy to press. But very heavy and sticky so the molds must be near perfect and very strong for repeated tampings. I really enjoyed the finish work it was like sculpting with trowel scalpel and spoon. The real art was moldmaking! Thinking inside out and backwsrds! Hell i cant even spell backwards apparently!
Yes, when you have to make adjustments on the mold, it is not at all easy to be able to work in reverse, but in this as in many other small things there is the difference between what can be achieved Industrially, and what can only be created by hand. Art has many forms and is not found only in museums
 
The best art is still rolling! On 2 wheels! And 4. I just sold a 69 buick skylark. It was kinda funky...art deco in a muscle car. I have a 1979 kawasaki kdx 250. Previous owner was also enthusiast for bikes. It has several homedesigned parts. I just love this stuff!
 
Work in progress
 

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I like it. Kinda modern. Kinda retro cafe racer. Will they be one off or mass produced? Or somewhere between?
 
I like it. Kinda modern. Kinda retro cafe racer. Will they be one off or mass produced? Or somewhere between?
[/CITAZIONE]

Thank you so much. I don't know if it could be produced in a small series, first of all because the mold I made is not that of the finished fairing, which is the first master modified. Consequently, I would have to remake a new mold. In addition to this problem, there is the problem of the difficulty of working in such a small and inaccessible mold, and an even bigger problem, There are necessary changes to be made, such as replacing the steering wheel with half-handlebars, and replacing the right control block, with one with accelerator cable attachment, in the upper part. I'm not even sure if you can use the original instrumentation, because I had already changed it before starting to build the windshield (Due to the mounting of the front rim Fjr). In short, if we wanted to make it in a small series, we would not speak of a single fairing, but of an entire conversion kit. I forgot: To have more space, I also replaced the.brake pump and clutch pump, as well as the throttle cables which must be clearly shortened, or as I did, totally replaced. Unfortunately this is the price to pay to get what you were talking about, that is, a lean and tight line. If I finally succeed tomorrow to have the front fender, I will take some videos and photos for the finished work, so you can notice the details I'm talking about
 
From these photos you can see the two brake and clutch master cylinders replaced with two lower ones and with lateral connection thread, and much more complicated, the two guides for the accelerator cables. Probably This problem can be solved with a control block with the two connections at the top, but for now I preferred to keep the original controls
 

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Sider... i think you should add this thread to the new topic called fabrication and cnc. It would fit in well there and that new section needs more projects like yours. Not many of us actually make new parts from scratch. Your work will be recognized more there i think.
 
Sider... i think you should add this thread to the new topic called fabrication and cnc. It would fit in well there and that new section needs more projects like yours. Not many of us actually make new parts from scratch. Your work will be recognized more there i think.
Thanks for the advice Jgas. Unfortunately the bike is not ready yet because the supports for the rearview mirrors are stealing me more time than they should, and moreover, I found myself with the Secondary clutch pump, dead. As soon as I finish all the works, I will follow your advice and publish in the section you recommend 👍👍👍👍👍👍
 
I am repainting mine now and my clutch lost prime too! I let the old girl go unridden for too long.
 
I am repainting mine now and my clutch lost prime too! I let the old girl go unridden for too long.
Unfortunately the same thing happened to me, but I think it also negatively affected the use for years of the double spring in the clutch. Yesterday I took advantage of the pump problems, and I opened the clutch cover, and removed a spring. I no longer have strong hands in my twenties 😂😂😂
 
Mine are getting weaker as well. I always move my levers inboard as far as possible for leverage. And keep the cable highly lubricated
You can also have a welder lengthen the clutch arm. Now they have adjustable ball bearing levers for most bikes. But they are expensive.
 
Mine are getting weaker as well. I always move my levers inboard as far as possible for leverage. And keep the cable highly lubricated
You can also have a welder lengthen the clutch arm. Now they have adjustable ball bearing levers for most bikes. But they are expensive.
Yes, unfortunately it is a problem with the clutch of the v-max, in addition to the inconvenience of the position and the low availability of cheap spare parts. i also verified that the original O-rings from before installation, are in better condition than those I replaced a few years ago, despite having bought a kit made in Japan, I am considering the purchase of a plate with springs, to replace the original one with the single conical spring. because as they tell me, it holds better and the clutch is much more soft, and it is clear that the softer the clutch, the less stressed the clutch master cylinder will be
 
and it is clear that the softer the clutch, the less stressed the clutch master cylinder will be
Removing clutch springs or fitting softer springs will mean less force is required to disengage the clutch so less effort needed to pull the clutch lever.... But this also means there is less force clamping the clutch plates together hence it is going to slip easier - bottom line is you don't get something for nothing.
 
Yes, this is clear. My curiosity is if the plate kit with small springs is really more effective than the original conical spring. Tonight I pulled the clutch lever with only one spring for the first time in many years, and I really can't believe there is so much difference between single and double spring.
 

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