My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the time switch

[nidyanazo]

So I like the vboost stock when cruising and conserving fuel. I enjoy my t-boost switch to activate it at 3000rpm instead of stock ~6000rpm sometimes also, But I REALLY like the always open option- unplugging the connector when the servo motor is at the right position so vboost is deactivated and the butterflies are always open, feeding 2 carbs to each cylinder 100% of the time (idle sounds amazing, and get up and go from stops are great..) however, is DRINKS gas like it's the only job it has.
So instead of spending $$ on vboost controlers, I fiddled around and figured out how to wire a toggle into the correct wire- so flipping it one way retains the stock vboost function- with or without a 3000rpm tboost switch. Now with my new toggle, I can flip it, and the servo opens the butterflies all the way, and holds them open 100% of the time. Flip it back, and they close and co back to stock- only opening at 6000rpm (and if you have a tboost switch, 3000 OR 6000 depending on which way it's flicked. ) Here's how:


Pull off the left side cover.

Find the ONLY round connector.

On it, there is a white wire with a red stripe.

Cut it, leaving enough room to solder a longer wire on each end.

All you're doing is installing a toggle switch there.

That's it!


ENJOY!

Stickey?

 

[alorio1]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the time sw

Maleko's drawing, is this the way you have it wired. Rumor has it that 12 volts to the servo motor will eventually strip the gears. I think the controller operates the servo motor off 5.7 volts to open and close.

 

[jwood]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the time sw

So I like the vboost stock when cruising and conserving fuel.

Vboost open or closed has no effect on fuel consumption or conservation of fuel... [emoji106]

 

[Matt427sohc]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the time sw

Jwood is right having the vboost in the open position does not affect fuel mileage. The reason why is the carbs pull the same regardless. Either way my bike got the same fuel mileage. The advantage of truly running in the open position is the bike will build power faster due to the flow capabilities of the vmax heads. This is really noticed if you modify your max (running 13 to 1 compression & modified heads.). Stock vmax will be hurt by running open vboost. Running the right size mains and needles adjusted right will give you better results on a stock vmax set up.

 

[nidyanazo]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the time sw

Jwood is right having the vboost in the open position does not affect fuel mileage. The reason why is the carbs pull the same regardless. Either way my bike got the same fuel mileage. The advantage of truly running in the open position is the bike will build power faster due to the flow capabilities of the vmax heads. This is really noticed if you modify your max (running 13 to 1 compression & modified heads.). Stock vmax will be hurt by running open vboost. Running the right size mains and needles adjusted right will give you better results on a stock vmax set up.

My bike is not stock. Besides the visual stuff it has Full 4-2-1 headers, slipon, K&N, jets, ign, mosfet r/r, modified airbox/stacks, colder plugs and various other mods not pertaining to the engine.

 

[nidyanazo]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the time sw

Vboost open or closed has no effect on fuel consumption or conservation of fuel... [emoji106]

That's strange- especially when at idle opening or closing the vboost dramatically changes the idle- goes from smooth running to sounding like a decent sized cam'd motor. Huh. I thought the whole point of vboost was to get more fuel and air into the cylinders- so that's going to lower fuel consumption if you have 2 carbs feeding each cylinder all the time. Oh well. Still kicks major ass to be able to turn it on or off at will

 

[[email protected]]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the time sw

Maleko's drawing, is this the way you have it wired. Rumor has it that 12 volts to the servo motor will eventually strip the gears. I think the controller operates the servo motor off 5.7 volts to open and close.

He doesn't specify but, I'm guessing the switch opens the circuit. Basically, you open the switch when the v boost cycles to the full open position. This kills power and locks it in whatever position the butterflies happen to be in.

I don't see how it could work any other way. You are just cutting. One wire ND putting GA switch in line. No way doing that is going to add voltage that is not already present

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[nidyanazo]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the time sw

Maleko's drawing, is this the way you have it wired. Rumor has it that 12 volts to the servo motor will eventually strip the gears. I think the controller operates the servo motor off 5.7 volts to open and close.

There is no adding of 12v to anything.

Read again, it's just installing a toggle switch inline on one wire.

The switch then disconnects, or connects that white wire with the red stripe. All the other wires in the round connector are still connected as normal. Doing this either enables stock vboost servo operation, or defaults the servo to full open butterflies position.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the time sw

That's strange- especially when at idle opening or closing the vboost dramatically changes the idle- goes from smooth running to sounding like a decent sized cam'd motor. Huh. I thought the whole point of vboost was to get more fuel and air into the cylinders- so that's going to lower fuel consumption if you have 2 carbs feeding each cylinder all the time. Oh well. Still kicks major ass to be able to turn it on or off at will

Open Vboost does allow two carbs to feed one cylinder which helps a lot at higher rpms where one carbs by itself is starting to become a restriction....

At lower rpms (or idle) the engine is still sucking the same amount of air, but now it's being pulled through two carbs instead of one, and at half the velocity it would be if it were going through just one carb.

Half the velocity means the venturi effect is less for each carb so they are letting less fuel (per carb) be pulled into the venturi stream....

End result is there isn't much effect on fuel mileage overall, some, but not much.

Subjective judgment but for me at least full time open Vboost did sacrifice some off idle and lower id range throttle response since the velocity thru the carbs is operating at a lower number...

The lumpy idle comes from essentially creating an open plenum type of situation where the cams overlap is allowed to effect the intake pulses of more than one cylinder

I did the open boost full time on an otherwise stock bike and the fuel mileage didn't detectably change.....it was this way for a long time and I was tracking mileage religiously...

 

[Matt427sohc]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the time sw

OK if this is what you say is modified then let me ask you a question. When running the vboost open what is the top end of your bike running. Run your bike with the vboost on factory setting & you will find top speed higher due to motor being able to breathe better. The bike will accelerate faster ( mark off a distance & time the bike between the distance). The bike will be faster. Also put the bike on the dyno I will be right there as well. You are running stock pistons, heads cams and so on. You can choose not to believe but I would post my bike pulling the wheels for a stop till she tops out 5 gear or have go pro cam on the front tire pulling 1/8 inch off the ground to 155 top speed ( turning 10,500 in 5th) But I am running 13 to 1 compression ( pistons 1260 kit from PCW racing at 11.88 to one before my heads were shaved 8 thousands of an inch running stock metal gaskets also 5 angle valve job high rev springs kept the stock valves due the 1260 on have enough displacement to take advantage of the bigger valves) High lift cams set at 6 thousands of an inch exhaust 10 thousands of an inch. Running 157.5 mains Factory Pro titanium needles set in the middle. Other tricks not going into on cabrs but my bike puts the power down. Time for 0 to 70 is 2.9 seconds. The old saying is not what you build its how you build it. Read alot of posts of people not knowing how to tune a vmax. I spent 2 years trial and error to find the sweet spot. No dyno just stop watch and distance mark off. My bike will hit 155 in a quarter mile. Seat of the pants feel fools you. Spent thousands of dollars just on blue print the block before any parts ordered. I have tore my bike completely down from front to rear to bare frame and back. Set up my own transmission as well to where no need to worry about the second gear issue. Also not worried about oiling issue either. I don't need a dyno either to tune one. So in closing you can believe me or not but your bike stops around 140 or so whether you run open vboost or not and takes you around a mile to get there.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the tim...

I never dynoed mine, but had hundreds of passes on it with stock Vboost and open full time Vboost and it honestly didn't seem to really matter much either way.


On the street open all the time does soften the throttle response, but grabbing a lower gear fixes that.

I do not see how, if all else is equal, full time open or naturally opening Vboost will make any difference on ultimate top speed because in either case the Vboost is open, so why would it matter??!?

155 in the quarter, which I assume is around 10.3-10.5 seconds, is damn impressive for a 1260, congrats on a fine build........haha.....would love to see the video or time slips for that one.

 

[nidyanazo]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the time sw

OK if this is what you say is modified then let me ask you a question. When running the vboost open what is the top end of your bike running. Run your bike with the vboost on factory setting & you will find top speed higher due to motor being able to breathe better. The bike will accelerate faster ( mark off a distance & time the bike between the distance). The bike will be faster. Also put the bike on the dyno I will be right there as well. You are running stock pistons, heads cams and so on. You can choose not to believe but I would post my bike pulling the wheels for a stop till she tops out 5 gear or have go pro cam on the front tire pulling 1/8 inch off the ground to 155 top speed ( turning 10,500 in 5th) But I am running 13 to 1 compression ( pistons 1260 kit from PCW racing at 11.88 to one before my heads were shaved 8 thousands of an inch running stock metal gaskets also 5 angle valve job high rev springs kept the stock valves due the 1260 on have enough displacement to take advantage of the bigger valves) High lift cams set at 6 thousands of an inch exhaust 10 thousands of an inch. Running 157.5 mains Factory Pro titanium needles set in the middle. Other tricks not going into on cabrs but my bike puts the power down. Time for 0 to 70 is 2.9 seconds. The old saying is not what you build its how you build it. Read alot of posts of people not knowing how to tune a vmax. I spent 2 years trial and error to find the sweet spot. No dyno just stop watch and distance mark off. My bike will hit 155 in a quarter mile. Seat of the pants feel fools you. Spent thousands of dollars just on blue print the block before any parts ordered. I have tore my bike completely down from front to rear to bare frame and back. Set up my own transmission as well to where no need to worry about the second gear issue. Also not worried about oiling issue either. I don't need a dyno either to tune one. So in closing you can believe me or not but your bike stops around 140 or so whether you run open vboost or not and takes you around a mile to get there.

155 in the 1/4? LOL Cool buddy, whatever you say. :rofl_200ost a video of this beast running a 155. That's the first thing I'd do if my bike was that fast. But nah, my vmax is just for cruising and messing around- it's no drag racer. I've got the R1 for speed and the Ducati for looks. Vmax is the most fun though.

But honestly, You're so full of shit it's not even funny. Do you really expect anyone to believe that nonsense you just typed? :eusa_dance:

This thread is about how to wire up switches, and you come on here with this total BS? Like really? And to just lie so erroneously is more sad then anything.

 

[nidyanazo]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the tim...

I never dynoed mine, but had hundreds of passes on it with stock Vboost and open full time Vboost and it honestly didn't seem to really matter much either way.
Was running 11.30's on an exhaust only bike with me at 245lbs with gear.

Admittedly at the drag strip the Vboost is "maybe" not so much a factor cause your launching almost in Vboost territory from the beginning.

On the street open all the time does soften the throttle response, but grabbing a lower gear fixes that.

I do not see how, if all else is equal, full time open or naturally opening Vboost will make any difference on ultimate top speed because in either case the Vboost is open. I will concede that one or the other can take longer to get there.

155 in the quarter, which I assume is around 10.3-10.5 seconds, is damn impressive for a 1260, congrats on a fine build!

Can't wait to get my 13:1, 1540 stroker, which I also built, to the track and see how it does.......

And your right, tuning this thing was a real bitch...I have a wideband but that only goes so far when trying to sort drive ability issues out after getting the basics in line. Lots of trail and error, lots of taking the carbs off and back on, and surprisingly very little info on good setups for big motors using stock carbs out there, even from people I though would just "have the numbers" for me....

BTW,

The big motor and cams with stock carbs won't run worth a crap at idle with full time open Vboost. Had to put the Vboost back to normal to get it to behave under 2000 rpm.

No dude, he's full of shit. 155 in the 1/4 is going to be breaking into the 8's or even 7's. 10.3-10.5's is ~128-132mph, and shit, he's got 25MPH on that. LOL.

Have a look. Here's real times for vmax's- as posted by the racers themselves.
http://www.dragtimes.com/Yamaha--V-Max-Drag-Racing.html

 

[nidyanazo]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the time sw

Here ya go- just for comparison. 8 second GEN2, (complete with wheelie bars and fully tuned for drag racing.) Going 156MPH in the 1/4.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0H7AJbYEUQ&hd=1


Here's a TURBO Gen1, fully built, doing 8.5sec in the 1/4, at 151MPH.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gh7rI3M7W38&hd=1


Let's see your runs on film. Or maybe that video of "my bike pulling the wheels for a stop till she tops out 5 gear or have go pro cam on the front tire pulling 1/8 inch off the ground to 155 top speed"

LOL.

 

[nidyanazo]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the time sw

ANNNNNNND..... Here's Matt427sohc's bike. Funny how it's a 155MPH bike in the 1/4, and all WITHOUT a wheelie bar, NO TURBO or blower- and STOCK tires! WOW! Not even a drag slick! :rofl_200::biglaugh::eusa_dance: Stock forks, not even strapped! Hell, he's even got the stock BRAKES! Stock handlebars too?! Nice.

...But hey, that absurdly large tachometer you stole off some kid's "fast and the furious" honda probably helps you shift at the right time while you're pulling wheelies in 5th gear, right bud?

51,000 miles and she's running the temps into the red just sitting there at idle.
Awesome. I bet the tuning is SPOT ON. Pushing so much power, no need to worry about aerodynamic drag, so he just left on the rearview mirrors, giant turn signals and humongous passenger backrest. - no fairing necessary!

:clapping:

I especially like all the loose wires hanging down by the rear cylinder heads, and all those scratches on the engine covers look fantastic!

BTW, what's the part number on that high tension elastic cord you have so effortlessly draped over the passenger seat area? Is that a "bungee" brand? Where can I order one? I hear they're good for 2/10th in the 1/4mi.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epOvbXcdnL0


http://vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=368243&postcount=75

 

[srk468]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the time sw

155 in the 1/4? LOL Cool buddy, whatever you say. :rofl_200ost a video of this beast running a 155. That's the first thing I'd do if my bike was that fast. But nah, my vmax is just for cruising and messing around- it's no drag racer. I've got the R1 for speed and the Ducati for looks. Vmax is the most fun though.

But honestly, You're so full of shit it's not even funny. Do you really expect anyone to believe that nonsense you just typed? :eusa_dance:

This thread is about how to wire up switches, and you come on here with this total BS? Like really? And to just lie so erroneously is more sad then anything.

I was thinking the same thing but alot of people on here already think I'm a dick so I wasn't saying anything lol

 

[SlowBox]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the time sw

Christ dude, take a pill.

 

[Matt427sohc]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the time sw

Yes that is my bike but video was for showing fix of oil leak (see the puddle next to the tire) when the bike got ho (read the threads)t. Ran bike sitting with fan off to show bike getting really hot. Notice in video I lean over to turn fan switch on.Finally trying to make fun of someone only shows how little you know. Stock forks can go 155 if you have the guts to stay on bike. The vmax was designed for the straight away which is how my bike is set up. Note your original comment was you have highly modified bike only in looks. To handle the attempt to handle the extra fuel by having the vboost coming eailer or open on a stock vamx motor is wasted of time and money. Set of the pants is not true test stop watch and distance marked off best way to tell. Been done before using a dyno which is so popular today. Note my bike will hit 155 quarter mile but takes total distance of around 1/2 a mile to include shut down. You think this was done on drag strip wrong street. See this is the problem you also did not watch the video very closely either not just running hot which comes for 13 to 1 compression but the sound notice the popping. Listen to a drag bike on utube & you will hear the same popping not as noticeable on mine due to full exshaust system. Vmax has lazy timiing also a wasted spark. I could upload other videos but what's the point you already made fun of that one. Note the bike does have 51,000 miles got the bike with 32,000 drop valve doing 130 mph shiftng way beyound tach reading of 11,000 rpms which around 42,000 miles on odometer. Now showing 51,000 from the video 9,000 miles but on motor since rebuild and still sounds same as when I first put her together. Finally you basically have no clue what to do other than watch u tube videos and forum posts. I did what I did without any of that.

 

[CaptainKyle]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the time sw

Christ dude, take a pill.

More like some one needs to take a reality pill:ummm:

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Re: My How TO: Wire up a VBoost On (stock functioning) and Fully open all the tim...

No dude, he's full of shit. 155 in the 1/4 is going to be breaking into the 8's or even 7's. 10.3-10.5's is ~128-132mph, and shit, he's got 25MPH on that. LOL.

Have a look. Here's real times for vmax's- as posted by the racers themselves.
http://www.dragtimes.com/Yamaha--V-Max-Drag-Racing.html

I know he's full of shit,
I was trying for passive-aggressive nice.....Too subtle though I guess