New buyer's tips

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highwinger

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Hi all, I'm new here and it's my first time posting.

Finally, after 20 years of desiring a Vmax, I think the time has come. I'm currently courting a '03. What are the keys think to look at when I go to inspect? there's no real mods other than the seat, >20k miles, looks good.

I appreciate your experience,
Bill

PS. 4 carbs scare me most
 
2nd gear as mentioned above, normal stuff like brakes, fork seals, tires for wear and feathering, service history to make sure its had normal service. When you turn on the key before start you should hear the vboost cycle (not to uncommon that vboost controllers stop working). Its nice to be able to figure anything it needs into the price. The carbs are no big deal but a Morgan Carbtune will be your friend. Good luck with your shopping Bill and welcome!
 
I bought my 2001 last year and have had a ton of fun so far.

Here is what I would do, with the experience that I have gained over the past 5K miles that I have put on:

1) start it up and make sure it idles without choke (once the temp is 1/3 on the scale) - this will give you an indication that the carbs are not gummed up and working.
2) bring a flashlight and peer into the gas tank to ensure that it relatively clean - no rust - as this can lead to bad things with carbs later...
3) 2nd gear - find a long, straight stretch of road, test the brakes from a couple of 50-60 mph runs to get the feel - and go full throttle till about 9,000 rpm. Two things should happen: a) the bike should stay in gear the whole time; b) the bike should try to rip your arms off after 6,000 RPM (hold on tight and be prepared). If both things happen things are good with that VMax - tranny, engine and carbs. PS - I'll say it again - find a long stretch of road - you will need it to slow down...

all else is typical to looking at a used bike...
 
So you're on the east coast of FL. Year-round riding, your 'Max can get plenty of exercise. Not knowing what your riding experience is, I would hesitate to tell an inexperienced rider, or someone who's never owned a 1 liter sportbike, "jes' climb on & let her rip to redline in a few gears."

Are you mechanically-inclined? Have you done repair or maintenance work on your bike(s)? You can count on doing some work yourself to deal w/the issues that a 14 year old bike is going to have. If you are forced to pay shop rate for everything from changing your oil to replacing burned-out light bulbs, I'd suggest looking for a newer bike. Our bikes have 'issues' from time to time. Using the forum, you can often get some good insight to dealing with whatever issues your ride may acquire. Members may offer to assist you if they are relatively close, or to offer reasonable parts and services prices, including used parts.

What I'm trying to say, is that if you don't have some spare $$$ to deal with whatever comes up in your ownership, I think you should look elsewhere. Normal consumables can quickly add up to $1,000 in a bike which has sat neglected, worn-out, and needing some parts and labor to fix it. A pair of tires, depending on what you buy and where, can run $3-400 mounted and installed. A battery, $50-175 depending on if you want a cheap lead-acid, an AGM (assembled gas mat), or a lithium ion battery (2.5 lbs but pricey). Brake pads, a fluid change, perhaps a rebuild of your hydraulics for the front & rear master cylinders, the hydraulic clutch, the clutch hydraulic slave cylinder, the brake stuff can be as-much as the new tires. Sometimes it's better to buy new components instead of spending more-than half the price on parts, not to mention labor. Have you ever rebuilt successfully a motorcycle brake or clutch hydraulic assembly? Your life literally depends on your brakes functioning reliably, not a good place to develop rebuilding skills.

Then you've got the expensive proposition of dealing with the fuel system. A rusty tank can be removed, cleaned and coated, all of which takes time and some mechanical skills. The carbs are another problematic area given the alcohol-blended gas sold today. A full service on a set of carbs can easily cost $600 in parts and labor, even more if they are in really-bad shape, and unfortunately, a bad gas tank and non-functional carbs are often found together.

All these repairs take time. All these repairs cost money. Don't count on going to your friendly Yamaha dealer and expecting to have the service tech to have worked on many, if any of the 32 years ('85-'07) of VMax's production run.

You have to go into this relationship knowing that it's gonna cost you money and sometimes frustration when dealing with whatever happens to your ride. If you're still interested in owning one after my cautionary tale, then take someone with you who is an experienced rider to evaluate the bike. Look in the "How-To" forum section and also the "Frequently Asked Questions" for Ra Warrior's tips. http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=21240

"Let the buyer beware."
 
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more than see if fork seals are ok, i would look if the chrome isnt pitted or has scores.
replace a seal is cheap and easy,replace a tube is way more pricey.
most of the used bikes people buy and take to my work with a leaking fork,i cant guarantee the work because the tube has some scores on it...
 
Should be easy to tell if the bike has been neglected or beat up. In that case, Fire-Medic hit the nail on the head with advice...

If the bike looks good, everything seems to work fine (I'd have a volt meter with me to check battery charging, but I'm anal about that - I run a volt meter on my '85...), then I'd do the second gear test.

Vboost must be experienced to be believed the first time it hits. Seriously, be careful, and have the bike on a straight stretch of road.
 
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