New from central ohio area

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lynford82

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Aug 5, 2013
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Location
plain city
I've been lurking and reading since I bought my Vmax last July, thought I'd share what I got with you guys.
It's my first bike and so far I'm loving it. It's a 1986 Vmax with an engine out of a 2004 along with the 2004 ignition and wiring harness. ( at least that's what I was told it was by the seller). I paid $3800 for it and got a bunch of spare parts with it including the old motor that's locked up.

Here are the parts I know I have. Kerker 4-1 header/ exhaust. Belly pan, not sure who's but I like it. Aftermarket component wheels, also not sure of brand. Shinko radials front and back. Notched swing arm,fits a 190 tire with spacer swap. Aftermarket progressive rear shocks.Aftermarket seat, think maybe a UFO seat. Dynojet stage 7 kit.
Since I bought the bike I added a 6 piston hyabusa front caliper and a set of drag bars.

IMG_20130724_203608_452_zpsaf3ea63f.jpg

IMG_20130724_203756_159_zps3445f5a7.jpg

Here's a pic with the drag bar and no wind screen.
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Pic of the rear swing arm after I painted it black. I'd still like to coat the headers black instead of the silver.
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Needless to say I'm in love with the bike and I'd definitely say I have Vmax fever.
 
Bike looks great:punk: I think you did well on your purchase. Welcome
 
The bike runs runs really well at WOT but seems to run a little rich at cruising speeds and I have yet to get better than 29 mpg. It also has a hesitation if your cruising and try to accelerate quickly. After doing a lot of reading I finally got the never to dig into the carbs a few weeks ago. I found the needles were set a notch richer than the dynojet kit says to set them but otherwise I thought everything looked good. I haven't had a chance to drive it more the a few miles because of the weather but I think its some better. I still need to work on getting the fuel mixture screws dialed in and then resince the carbs.
I also discovered my vboost was wide open all the time. After messing with it a bit I got the servo motor to close but now I don't think its opening so still have some work to do there.
I also found a jumper wire in a plug up close to the right intake cover that I don't know what its for. If anyone has an idea here's a pic of it.
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I'm also wondering where to source a sprag for my rear wheel. The one that goes into the final drive. The teeth on mine are showing a lot of wear.

Thanks for all the good info on the site definitely lots to learn. Looks like Sean Morley is a good guy to have around. My in laws don't live too far from Morley's shop, if I'm in the area and looking to kill time would I be welcome to stop by sometime?
 
Anytime (as long as I am around lol).

I probably have a drive spline setup. Post up pics of yours. The wheels you have are older performance machine if I remember correctly.

I believe what you are picturing is the key switch connector. Not sure what they have going on there.
 
The jumper is putting 12V+ to the parking light circuit.

My guess would be the key switch has a failure in it that the PO fixed by bypassing contacts in switch.

Downside of this is that if you set the key switch to what would normally be parking lights only, the complete system will be energized, same as in run position.

Gary
 
Looks like a lot of aftermarket stuff for a reasonable price. I agree w/Mr. Morley, PM wheels. A big advantage, running radials compared to the stock bias-ply tires. You will eliminate a lot of handling issues right there. If you had the OEM steering head bearings in there, that would be a good place to start in your overhaul, if it needs it. The outer races have to be destroyed to remove them, do yourself a favor and grind 180-degree opposed 'eyebrows' on the inside of the steering head tube for being able to remove the outer races in the future.

Look on a microfiche for the '04 year and see if the ignition box is the same as that year. The motor swap should be no issue, it's actually better for you, as there is less chance of things being wrong w/it as-compared to a 1985. A better starter, better ignition, upgraded gear selector, lots of good things come w/that late-model engine. Less chance of a bad 2nd gear, jumping out of gear on hard acceleration, too. That's a $2K fix at a dealer.

The Dynojet kit for Stage 7 has the VBoost open all the time, but w/some tuning, guys (including me) have been able to run the VBoost w/properly-jetted Stage 7 carbs. Take a look if you have the carbs open and see what main jets are in it. Keihein jets are different from Dynojets in sizing. Look at the stickies in the 'Carbs' section.

Some guys get better mileage w/what are similar carb set-ups to yours, float level is critical to this, evidently. Take a look at the Factory Pro website and also in the stickies for info on this. It might take some fiddling, but you can probably improve that a bit, the mileage you are reporting. Are you using the 4 pod air filters?

It sounds like you have a solid start. Welcome. :punk:
 
I also found a jumper wire in a plug up close to the right intake cover that I don't know what its for. If anyone has an idea here's a pic of it.
IMG_20140110_184709_164_zpsb87e9bf1.jpg


Welcome, great looking bike!
Yes, that's the ignition switch connector, with the brown fuse box wire jumpered to the blue tail light-gauge lights-front running lights feed wire. Normally connected with the ignition switch in the "on" position. Maybe the contacts are bad within the switch, or within the connector itself.
These connectors tend to fail, due to corrosion/resistance. Sometimes the plastic melts, and the always hot red(battery) wire contacts the brown, and the bike's complete electrical system is live - no need for the ignition switch!
Several forum members, including myself, have eliminated this connector completely, by soldering and heat-shrinking the wires.
Another connector prone to failure is the three-gang stator to RR . Worth checking out. Again, many people eliminate this one as well.
Cheers!
 
i WELCOME ! ... AND THANKS FOR BREAKING YOUR SILENCE ! .:clapping:... GREAT LOOKING BIKE ! . :punk:
 
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