New owner of 89 Vmax!

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Captmig

Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2021
Messages
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Location
Miami fl
Hello all. Another guy here who as a kid wanted a Vmax. I finally got one last week and I’m still grinning. I picked it up from a forum member here who brought the bike from the dead. Real nice guy seemed very knowledgeable about the bike. He did carbs upgraded to COPS and bought ignitech from one Sean Morley. I have put about 100 miles on it since. No issues except some close to overheating and rough idle. Looking forward to learn more on this bike.
From what I read the ignitech is programable. So far bike runs great. If it holds up I’ll be adding brakes and a seat.
Cheers to all!
 

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Hello all. Another guy here who as a kid wanted a Vmax. I finally got one last week and I’m still grinning. I picked it up from a forum member here who brought the bike from the dead. Real nice guy seemed very knowledgeable about the bike. He did carbs upgraded to COPS and bought ignitech from one Sean Morley. I have put about 100 miles on it since. No issues except some close to overheating and rough idle. Looking forward to learn more on this bike.
From what I read the ignitech is programable. So far bike runs great. If it holds up I’ll be adding brakes and a seat.
Cheers to all!
Please no pictures of palm trees. The mental anguish is palpable.
I had snow yesterday. Oh the pain.........
 
First the 'good news:" you have an iconic muscle-bike, stock, it defeated all-comers. Nothing-else compares. The Ducati Diavel comes-close, but sells fewer, and is more-expensive. And, you have to deal with the desmodromic vlave actuation, and tuning. Compared to that, cleaning your carbs occasionally is a cake-walk.

Now, the 'bad'-your rough idle is probably due to yes, dirty carbs, which is probably due to a rusted gas tank. Both are fixable by a skilled owner, but they are gonna cost you some sweat-equity. This is all supposition, and is based upon decades of ownership and service.

I suspect your gas tank is crusty. Take a flashlight and see what inside the filler neck tells-you. Do you see shiny metal in the bottom of the tank? Or do you see some dull, dark coating, or worse, a rusty, nasty interior, with gummy deposits? The latter is gonna require removal of the gas tank, and any of several methods of cleaning.

Some people like to seal the tank after cleaning it. If it appears rusted after cleaning, that's probably gonna be your path. You can try sealing the gas tank, Captain Kyle likes the KBS sealer product (do a site advanced search) but you have-to explicitly-follow the instructions, no shortcuts!

Cleaning can be done a number of ways. Vinegar (6% concentration or higher), Evaporust (expensive, but it works, vinegar does the same thing and is cheaper, time of soaking depends upon % concentration of the vinegar) or electrolysis (another search topic). Choose the one you feel most-comfortable to rely-upon. If you do the vinegar, remove the low fuel sending unit, and use a piece of metal and sealant to close-off that port. Leaving it soaking-in vinegar for too-long will destroy the potmetal of the low fuel sending unit.

A rough idle can be due to dirty pilot jets, incorrect carburetor synchronization, poorly-adjusted push/pull throttle cables, a dirt air cleaner element, a dirty fuel filter, etc.

Whatever is the issue, it has to be corrected to allow you trouble-free use of the bike. Once things are fully-sorted, you will laugh with great glee whenever you hit VBoost. It's that kind-of fun. Few stock bikes present this level of acceleration with such ease.

About your brakes, I'd check you have no glaze on the pads and sufficient pad material; smooth rotors, not rough, uneven ones, and that your master cylinder is full, the fluid is not opaque (if it is, you need-to change it! Look in advanced search for 'reverse-bleed' of your brakes) . You should not be-able to pull the front brake lever anywhere-near the handlebar, before you're able to lock the brakes.

You have the early brakes (1985-1989) which work OK if you have HH composition pads, but (this is my opinion) you have much to gain from, by at a minimum, replacing your pads with HH composition pads. I wouldn't bother spending my $ on anything else for those brakes and front end.

An easy upgrade, all bolt-on, is to add a 1993-2007 front end: triple trees, downtubes, sliders, and calipers and rotors. You get 43mm instead of the thinner 1985-'89 front end downtubes/sliders/triple trees/calipers (which are single-opposed piston), so your front end is larger diameter downtubes, sliders, two-pairs opposed pistons calipers, larger rotors, and it retains the stock early model wheel and speedometer sender. Throw some stainless steel hoses on that, with a set of HH pads, and you're going to have significantly-better braking. If you upgrade to the 1993-2007 front end, you can also upgrade to the early Yamaha R1 sportbike calipers which have the same bolt pattern/spacing as the VMax, but you may need to change out the hoses because of the mounting. Be aware that the later model R1's have radial brake caliper mounting, which does-not fit the Generation 1 VMax front end.

The 43mm front end downtubes and sliders are better (larger diameter) than the 1985-'89 set-up, and the two pairs of opposed pistons late-model brakes' calipers are better than the early brakes (which use a single pair of opposed pistons in each caliper) especially in HH pads and with the larger rotors the late model brakes use.
 
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First the 'good news:" you have an iconic muscle-bike, stock, it defeated all-comers. Nothing-else compares. The Ducati Diavel comes-close, but sells fewer, and is more-expensive. And, you have to deal with the desmodromic vlave actuation, and tuning. Compared to that, cleaning your carbs occasionally is a cake-walk.

Now, the 'bad'-your rough idle is probably due to yes, dirty carbs, which is probably due to a rusted gas tank. Both are fixable by a skilled owner, but they are gonna cost you some sweat-equity. This is all supposition, and is based upon decades of ownership and service.

I suspect your gas tank is crusty. Take a flashlight and see what inside the filler neck tells-you. Do you see shiny metal in the bottom of the tank? Or do you see some dull, dark coating, or worse, a rusty, nasty interior, with gummy deposits? The latter is gonna require removal of the gas tank, and any of several methods of cleaning.

Some people like to seal the tank after cleaning it. If it appears rusted after cleaning, that's probably gonna be your path. You can try sealing the gas tank, Captain Kyle likes the KBS sealer product (do a site advanced search) but you have-to explicitly-follow the instructions, no shortcuts!

Cleaning can be done a number of ways. Vinegar (6% concentration or higher), Evaporust (expensive, but it works, vinegar does the same thing and is cheaper, time of soaking depends upon % concentration of the vinegar) or electrolysis (another search topic). Choose the one you feel most-comfortable to rely-upon. If you do the vinegar, remove the low fuel sending unit, and use a piece of metal and sealant to close-off that port. Leaving it soaking-in vinegar for too-long will destroy the potmetal of the low fuel sending unit.

A rough idle can be due to dirty pilot jets, incorrect carburetor synchronization, poorly-adjusted push/pull throttle cables, a dirt air cleaner element, a dirty fuel filter, etc.

Whatever is the issue, it has to be corrected to allow you trouble-free use of the bike. Once things are fully-sorted, you will laugh with great glee whenever you hit VBoost. It's that kind-of fun. Few stock bikes present this level of acceleration with such ease.

About your brakes, I'd check you have no glaze on the pads and sufficient pad material; smooth rotors, not rough, uneven ones, and that your master cylinder is full, the fluid is not opaque (if it is, you need-to change it! Look in advanced search for 'reverse-bleed' of your brakes) . You should not be-able to pull the front brake lever anywhere-near the handlebar, before you're able to lock the brakes.

You have the early brakes (1985-1989) which work OK if you have HH composition pads, but (this is my opinion) you have much to gain from, by at a minimum, replacing your pads with HH composition pads. I wouldn't bother spending my $ on anything else for those brakes and front end.

An easy upgrade, all bolt-on, is to add a 1993-2007 front end: triple trees, downtubes, sliders, and calipers and rotors. You get 43mm instead of the thinner 1985-'89 front end downtubes/sliders/triple trees/calipers (which are single-opposed piston), so your front end is larger diameter downtubes, sliders, two-pairs opposed pistons calipers, larger rotors, and it retains the stock early model wheel and speedometer sender. Throw some stainless steel hoses on that, with a set of HH pads, and you're going to have significantly-better braking. If you upgrade to the 1993-2007 front end, you can also upgrade to the early Yamaha R1 sportbike calipers which have the same bolt pattern/spacing as the VMax, but you may need to change out the hoses because of the mounting. Be aware that the later model R1's have radial brake caliper mounting, which does-not fit the Generation 1 VMax front end.

The 43mm front end downtubes and sliders are better (larger diameter) than the 1985-'89 set-up, and the two pairs of opposed pistons late-model brakes' calipers are better than the early brakes (which use a single pair of opposed pistons in each caliper) especially in HH pads and with the larger rotors the late model brakes use.
Wow man ! Thanks for all that. Nice to see a community Ike this. I’m goona check tank Sunday and see what I find. I’m guessing after 30+ yrs there must be some issues there. Bike runs good and I been falling asleep thinking of it. ;). I’m more of a supermotard guy but this thing has a grip on me. Tks agi
First the 'good news:" you have an iconic muscle-bike, stock, it defeated all-comers. Nothing-else compares. The Ducati Diavel comes-close, but sells fewer, and is more-expensive. And, you have to deal with the desmodromic vlave actuation, and tuning. Compared to that, cleaning your carbs occasionally is a cake-walk.

Now, the 'bad'-your rough idle is probably due to yes, dirty carbs, which is probably due to a rusted gas tank. Both are fixable by a skilled owner, but they are gonna cost you some sweat-equity. This is all supposition, and is based upon decades of ownership and service.

I suspect your gas tank is crusty. Take a flashlight and see what inside the filler neck tells-you. Do you see shiny metal in the bottom of the tank? Or do you see some dull, dark coating, or worse, a rusty, nasty interior, with gummy deposits? The latter is gonna require removal of the gas tank, and any of several methods of cleaning.

Some people like to seal the tank after cleaning it. If it appears rusted after cleaning, that's probably gonna be your path. You can try sealing the gas tank, Captain Kyle likes the KBS sealer product (do a site advanced search) but you have-to explicitly-follow the instructions, no shortcuts!

Cleaning can be done a number of ways. Vinegar (6% concentration or higher), Evaporust (expensive, but it works, vinegar does the same thing and is cheaper, time of soaking depends upon % concentration of the vinegar) or electrolysis (another search topic). Choose the one you feel most-comfortable to rely-upon. If you do the vinegar, remove the low fuel sending unit, and use a piece of metal and sealant to close-off that port. Leaving it soaking-in vinegar for too-long will destroy the potmetal of the low fuel sending unit.

A rough idle can be due to dirty pilot jets, incorrect carburetor synchronization, poorly-adjusted push/pull throttle cables, a dirt air cleaner element, a dirty fuel filter, etc.

Whatever is the issue, it has to be corrected to allow you trouble-free use of the bike. Once things are fully-sorted, you will laugh with great glee whenever you hit VBoost. It's that kind-of fun. Few stock bikes present this level of acceleration with such ease.

About your brakes, I'd check you have no glaze on the pads and sufficient pad material; smooth rotors, not rough, uneven ones, and that your master cylinder is full, the fluid is not opaque (if it is, you need-to change it! Look in advanced search for 'reverse-bleed' of your brakes) . You should not be-able to pull the front brake lever anywhere-near the handlebar, before you're able to lock the brakes.

You have the early brakes (1985-1989) which work OK if you have HH composition pads, but (this is my opinion) you have much to gain from, by at a minimum, replacing your pads with HH composition pads. I wouldn't bother spending my $ on anything else for those brakes and front end.

An easy upgrade, all bolt-on, is to add a 1993-2007 front end: triple trees, downtubes, sliders, and calipers and rotors. You get 43mm instead of the thinner 1985-'89 front end downtubes/sliders/triple trees/calipers (which are single-opposed piston), so your front end is larger diameter downtubes, sliders, two-pairs opposed pistons calipers, larger rotors, and it retains the stock early model wheel and speedometer sender. Throw some stainless steel hoses on that, with a set of HH pads, and you're going to have significantly-better braking. If you upgrade to the 1993-2007 front end, you can also upgrade to the early Yamaha R1 sportbike calipers which have the same bolt pattern/spacing as the VMax, but you may need to change out the hoses because of the mounting. Be aware that the later model R1's have radial brake caliper mounting, which does-not fit the Generation 1 VMax front end.

The 43mm front end downtubes and sliders are better (larger diameter) than the 1985-'89 set-up, and the two pairs of opposed pistons late-model brakes' calipers are better than the early brakes (which use a single pair of opposed pistons in each caliper) especially in HH pads and with the larger rotors the late model brakes use.
wow

thanks for all that info. Yea I’m gonna have a good look into the tank this Sunday and see. Guessing after 30 yrs I must have issues. If I can get her clean I will or look into a new one. This bike has me grinning. And I been falling asleep thinking of her.
Brakes are on the list for sure. I dont feel confident opening her up At will without them. I’ve been a dirt bike enduro supermotard guy all my life so I’m used to stopping when I need to.
Tks for the info. I really appreciate it. Also the ignitech ? I’m guessing that’s a set it and forget it thing or do u all see a need to log in and have a look
Again thanks for all the help. I’ll keep ya posted
 
Please no pictures of palm trees. The mental anguish is palpable.
I had snow yesterday. Oh the pain.........
Lol. Sorry man. That’s all we got here. But I feel ur pain. I spent a few years in PA. Shoveling snow in my early years.
 
You should not be-able to pull the front brake lever anywhere-near the handlebar, before you're able to lock the brakes.

yup I can peg front brake to the bar. I’ll check this as well
Tks
 
Hello and welcome, you just purchased the fastest color vmax ever made! Congratulations on your new to you bike, I also have an 89 and really like the colors. Good luck with your bike, it looks great.
 
Hello and welcome, you just purchased the fastest color vmax ever made! Congratulations on your new to you bike, I also have an 89 and really like the colors. Good luck with your bike, it looks great.
Tks man. Just getting used to it n getting to know it. Old bikes hold many secrets like older women. ;)
 
yes they do. my daughter was asking me the other day which if my bikes is the most exciting to ride. I said the v-max of course. that thing is scary over 100, but sure is a blast getting there. new bikes are just so much more stable and predictable.

I am so lucky, I bought mine new in 86, and have owned it ever since. I have owned many other bikes, but will never sell the vmax.

we hit Melbourne beach all the time, great area. if you get up this way, send me a PM and we can hook up for a ride.
 
yes they do. my daughter was asking me the other day which if my bikes is the most exciting to ride. I said the v-max of course. that thing is scary over 100, but sure is a blast getting there. new bikes are just so much more stable and predictable.

I am so lucky, I bought mine new in 86, and have owned it ever since. I have owned many other bikes, but will never sell the vmax.

we hit Melbourne beach all the time, great area. if you get up this way, send me a PM and we can hook up for a ride.
Lol. Yup. I had a. VFR 1000 86 back in the day and yes. Older bikes don’t feel as secure at high speeds but there something about that heavy metal feel.

Next time Im up there I’ll hit u up.
 
If you are going to bleed the front brake then you might as well do the rear and also the clutch, the procedure for all except the rear calliper has 2bleed nipple.

An oil change and new filter and possibly rear drive oil change, coolant change (rtfm for how deal with the valve) and air filter is all that needs doing, oh and check brake pads have sufficient material left.
 
Welcome...if you dont want to go through the trouble of changing out the front end, braided lines, hh pads and a fork spring kit works wonders, night and day. I've never noticed a huge difference with every thing else stock other than a little heavier steering up front. With the larger forks.
Or you can do this conversion. Huge difference.
 

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Hello and welcome, you just purchased the fastest color vmax ever made! Congratulations on your new to you bike, I also have an 89 and really like the colors. Good luck with your bike, it looks great.
I‘m thinking that the fastest color first generation V-MAX was the 1985 in Dark Amethyst(dark purple)! Totally badass bike and color!
 
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