New Vmax Owner

[BeardedMax]

Hey everyone! I just picked up a 2001 VMAX in the carbon. It has 19k miles. When I went for the test drive she fired up fine. Test drive went fine. Nothing major stuck out in my face so I purchased it. The seller said it had the engine removed by the previous owner and bored 30 over and a stage 7 revzilla cam kit (has anyone ever even heard of such a thing??) We did have to jump it because the battery was dead. Get home and now the clutch does not fully disengage. If I try to put it in first from neutral it will jump and die. I have ordered a rebuild kit for the master clutch and will bleed the system when I install that and hopefully that fixes that. Also, it seems very hard to start and get going. (Mind you my first carb vehicle) She will fire but then want to die right away full half or no choke. if you give it some throttle she will eventually stay going. Is this a normal thing or do I possibly have some carb work to do? He said he went through them a few years ago. I have also noticed the neutral light only comes on every once in a while. Any insight would be much appreciated and I’m happy to be a part of the club!

 

[Bullies74]

Welcome.

Was the bike in storage or sitting for a long period of time before you purchased it?

 

[BeardedMax]

Welcome.

Was the bike in storage or sitting for a long period of time before you purchased it?

The last time he had started and rode the bike was in December.

 

[Bullies74]

First I would start by removing any old fuel from the tank and install a new fuel filter.

Checking the inside of the fuel tank for rust is helpful to.

Add new fuel and pour a can of sea foam in the tank.

Remove and inspect the condition of all four spark plugs replace if needed.

Try starting it and see if it helps with your issues.

If the above doesn’t work, you may have to go into the carbs deeper.

These bikes can be very temperamental when it comes to the carburetors, but when they are right, these bikes are a blast to ride.

Would also drain and flush all the old brake/clutch fluids including but not limited to antifreeze and motor oil.

As for the stage 7 there are plenty of Gurus on this site that can elaborate further.

 

[[email protected]]

I've never heard of a revzilla cam for the vmax. Revzilla is a parts dealer but they don't make/sell vmax cams. There are a few places that did sell cams but, who knows what you really have there. There is a Stage 7 carburetor jet kit made by dynojet. That is a very popular mod. Its quite possible someone got some things mixed up and that is what you have. Check for a stainless braided hose coming from the oil fill on the clutch cover. That is tell tale sign.

Regarding your clutch issue, it may just need some new fluid, and bled. It may need a master cylinder rebuild. It may need a slave cylinder rebuild. Before tearing into the master cylinder, does it leak, or appear to draw air? If not, I wouldn't tear it apart before some more critical evaluation.

The starting and running issues you describe are not normal at all and could indicate either a poor state of tune, dirty carburetors/fuel tank/filter/lines, or both. If I were to buy a new vmax that had the symptoms you describe, I wouldn't hesitate to start inspecting the fuel system from top to bottom.

1. drain fuel tank
2. inspect tank for rust. If rust is present, strip tank and seal it, or buy new.
3. flush out all the fuel lines if rust is found.
4. replace fuel filter
5. remove carbs, tear down into pairs. do a very thorough cleaning. Read all the "Sticky" threads in the carb section. There are a lot of them. They are all useful. Especially this one. https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/carb-rebuild-part-1-picture-rich.5830/
6. Rebuild the carbs with OEM parts as needed. Mostly just o-rings and jet block gaskets. Hopefully the diaphragms and air cutoff valves are in good shape. The float bowl gaskets are typically reuseable.
7. Inspect existing jets and needles so you know if you have OEM parts or if someone tried to jet the bike.
8. Set float level.
9. Inspect all rubber joints between v-boost tubes, manifold to carb base, carb top to airbox for cracks. If cracked, replace.
10. Make sure to synch the carbs and adjust the vboost cable (pending it hasn't been eliminated with a stage 7 jet kit)

Sounds like a lot of work but, if done correctly your fuel system will be good to go for years to come.

 

[MaxMidnight]

I would do a full service (checklist here) before getting too deep into the carbs. Start by making sure the basics are OK.

 

[scout477]

After market carbs, Keihin 39 mm down draft, flat slides, gear rack driven, they never go out of synchn also buy a shift light as stock tach is useless.

 

[scout477]

Barnett clutch with extra friction plate and put an pressure plate style clutch activation system

 

[Parminio]

I would do a full service (checklist here) before getting too deep into the carbs. Start by making sure the basics are OK.

@BeardedMax This ^

The last thing on earth you want to do is start tearing apart a bike when you have no clue what's actually wrong with it.

Go through the list, see what you find, take care of it (you're bound to find a few things) and see where you are and then go from there.

 

[Itgoes]

After market carbs, Keihin 39 mm down draft, flat slides, gear rack driven, they never go out of synchn also buy a shift light as stock tach is useless. View attachment 72216 View attachment 72217

Flatslides do not like cold startups. It's something you have to get used to. If there is a choke I'm guessing it's only choking one carb?

 

[scout477]

Flatslides do not like cold startups. It's something you have to get used to. If there is a choke I'm guessing it's only choking one carb?

No choke, racing carbs. Bike stays in a climate controlled environment. Dyna Ignition also. This isn't my first rodeo