New Vmax

[kwarnke]

Hey everyone, just bought yet another one. 95 but this one isnt like any I have purchased before and this makes 5. its faster than any one I have ever had. theres a toggle switch and when its on, its sounds like the whole engine opens up including the Cobras, and I know what you're thinking its the Vboost, but it isnt. Ideas? Also, at speed, the throttle is horrible, it feels like a crimped fuel line or maybe a spark issue, it lags prtty bad hitting the throttle at highway speed. I got a great deal on her because the owner said he was scared of it, and I get it, its really fast, faster than any of my others, it just pulls away from you like nothing I have ever felt and he doesnt know who the original owner was but look at it, there isnt a scratch on it. I came home last night and my wife asked me whats wrong, and I told her I just rode the devil. My son isnt allowed on it, even she knew this wasnt normal.

 

[Fire-medic]

Well, just think how-fast it will be once you replace those lame Cobra exhausts! I award 'em a 10 for appearance, and a 1 for performance.

I suspect the toggle switch is just some aftermarket add-on circuit to open the VBoost to 'always-on.' That changes the idle, and it doesn't do anything for improving acceleration, but the aesthetics are enhanced sound-wise. I'd remove the left scoop and eyeball the round connector for the stepper motor for the VBoost, and see if there are any additional wires spliced into the stepper motor wires. It shouod be easy to-spot. Some box for those wires, the box squeezed-in and probably not-even secured.

ABout the throttle being 'soft,' explain the disparity between 'feels faster than my other ones,' and 'poor throttle response.' Do you mean that once you get to VBoost, it pulls, and you don't notice the throttle lag on the upper-third of the tach (6K-9K rpm)?

Have you serviced it yet? Changing the fuel filter (cut it open and read the owl entrails, like the Greek priests did), a complete flush of the f & r brake fluids, and the hydraulic clutch (you do use a 'reverse-bleed,' don't you?); checking the battery for electrolyte level, and routing of the overflow tube; how-much friction material is on the brake pads; how much pressure is in the front forks (I bet you discover they're below the 6-14 psi the factory talks-about, which could be because someone's replaced the springs with Progressive Suspension ones); taken a good-look with a powerful light inside the gas tank, to see if you find any corrosion (it should be shiny-bright metal on the floor of it); and look at the air cleaner element. It may never have-been changed.

If the bike's been sitting while he tried to sell it, you probably have one or more plugged pilot jets.

 

[kwarnke]

Well, just think how-fast it will be once you replace those lame Cobra exhausts! I award 'em a 10 for appearance, and a 1 for performance.

Are the cobras that bad? Someone else said that they decrease the power 10 percent. I have hole shots on the other one in the picture and I love those. What should I replace them with?

 

[Parminio]

Are the cobras that bad? Someone else said that they decrease the power 10 percent. I have hole shots on the other one in the picture and I love those. What should I replace them with?

Holeshots. Make sure you buy the appropriate jet kit as well.

And yes, the Cobra's are that bad. Anybody I've ever seen run them didn't run them for long.

 

[Fire-medic]

lilredrooster, where are you?

What's the budget? See if you can sell one of the five you have and then look for some Carozzeria's that Sean Morley was selling, and his Morley's Muscle jet/intake kit. Throw matched radials on the Carozzeria's and follow Sean's carburetor kit instructions, and you'll wonder why it took you so-long to get to that point. And a full exhaust from a known good provider. Mark's, Dale Walker, 1985-2007 Vmax - Exhaust - Page 1 - Star Rider Performance ; Kerker... .

 

[kwarnke]

Well, just think how-fast it will be once you replace those lame Cobra exhausts! I award 'em a 10 for appearance, and a 1 for performance.

I suspect the toggle switch is just some aftermarket add-on circuit to open the VBoost to 'always-on.' That changes the idle, and it doesn't do anything for improving acceleration, but the aesthetics are enhanced sound-wise. I'd remove the left scoop and eyeball the round connector for the stepper motor for the VBoost, and see if there are any additional wires spliced into the stepper motor wires. It shouod be easy to-spot. Some box for those wires, the box squeezed-in and probably not-even secured.

ABout the throttle being 'soft,' explain the disparity between 'feels faster than my other ones,' and 'poor throttle response.' Do you mean that once you get to VBoost, it pulls, and you don't notice the throttle lag on the upper-third of the tach (6K-9K rpm)?

Have you serviced it yet? Changing the fuel filter (cut it open and read the owl entrails, like the Greek priests did), a complete flush of the f & r brake fluids, and the hydraulic clutch (you do use a 'reverse-bleed,' don't you?); checking the battery for electrolyte level, and routing of the overflow tube; how-much friction material is on the brake pads; how much pressure is in the front forks (I bet you discover they're below the 6-14 psi the factory talks-about, which could be because someone's replaced the springs with Progressive Suspension ones); taken a good-look with a powerful light inside the gas tank, to see if you find any corrosion (it should be shiny-bright metal on the floor of it); and look at the air cleaner element. It may never have-been changed.

If the bike's been sitting while he tried to sell it, you probably have one or more plugged pilot jets.

Yeah the guy I bought it from said he owned it for a few weeks and tried to ride it but he said it was way too powerful for him and I was like ok. If you’ve never been on one I would totally get that statement and once I got on it I saw what he meant. I flipped the toggle and it’s like the baffles on the exhaust opened or so it sounded and the vboost did kick in like it was supposed to but you could be right. It could be a vboost on all the time device. I have one but never used it. I am thinking about taking the HoleShots off my red one and putting them on this new yellow one. She’s gorgeous. Back to the throttle. I’ve only owned it for a day so I haven’t been able to really dissect it. It feels like a fuel issue, likes its starved for fuel but it’s intermittent. It’s very odd. One second the throttle is right there and all’s right in the world and the next second it’s like unresponsive and sluggish. Maybe it’s missing. I’ll investigate more this weekend.

 

[kwarnke]

lilredrooster, where are you?

What's the budget? See if you can sell one of the five you have and then look for some Carozzeria's that Sean Morley was selling, and his Morley's Muscle jet/intake kit. Throw matched radials on the Carozzeria's and follow Sean's carburetor kit instructions, and you'll wonder why it took you so-long to get to that point. And a full exhaust from a known good provider. Mark's, Dale Walker, 1985-2007 Vmax - Exhaust - Page 1 - Star Rider Performance ; Kerker... .

I talk to Sean all the time. I literally just told him about the new bike. Like I was saying earlier I may take the hole shots off the red bike and out them on Big Yellow but you’re saying I would have to re-jet it for HoleShots?

 

[Fire-medic]

An easy investigative task: drain the float bowls, one at a time, into a receptacle, and see if there are any contaminants. Empty the glass between drainings, and rinse it to ensure it's clean. BTW, water in the float bowl can cause exactly the sort-of hesitation you're describing. When you drain the carbs (one at a time, remember) look for a 'lens' of water separation from the gasoline. It appears to-be a bubble of different viscosity, floating by itself in the gasoline.

You can get a replacement fuel filter at your local auto parts store for about $6. You need a 1/4" I.D. one. Do a search on here for the exact part no's. & the sales outlets where you can find-'em. The OEM is probably about $21.

Changing exhausts, to achieve maximum benefit, yes a re-jet is often required. Drain the carbs first, see what happens. Stock main jets are usually 152.5 Mikuni. That requires removing the carbs and splitting 'em into two-pairs.

If you're really-good, and you have the proper jet tool, you may be able to remove the jets without splitting 'em, but by splitting 'em and removing the float bowls, you can remove the pilot jets and check 'em for obstruction. Your symptoms could also be caused by one or more clogged pilot jets. Be very-careful with the molded T-hose gas line, it's easy to rip that trying to remove it, especially on a 25 year-old bike. I use a small angled pick to open the end of the T-hose, and then a red wand on a can of WD-40 to shoot some inside each side of the T-hose. That will help to allow the T-hose to slide-off.

https://www.harborfreight.com/mini-pick-and-hook-set-63697.html

 

[kwarnke]

An easy investigative task: drain the float bowls, one at a time, into a receptacle, and see if there are any contaminants. Empty the glass between drainings, and rinse it to ensure it's clean. BTW, water in the float bowl can cause exactly the sort-of hesitation you're describing. When you drain the carbs (one at a time, remember) look for a 'lens' of water separation from the gasoline. It appears to-be a bubble of different viscosity, floating by itself in the gasoline.

You can get a replacement fuel filter at your local auto parts store for about $6. You need a 1/4" I.D. one. Do a search on here for the exact part no's. & the sales outlets where you can find-'em. The OEM is probably about $21.

Changing exhausts, to achieve maximum benefit, yes a re-jet is often required. Drain the carbs first, see what happens. Stock main jets are usually 152.5 Mikuni. That requires removing the carbs and splitting 'em into two-pairs.

If you're really-good, and you have the proper jet tool, you may be able to remove the jets without splitting 'em, but by splitting 'em and removing the float bowls, you can remove the pilot jets and check 'em for obstruction. Your symptoms could also be caused by one or more clogged pilot jets. Be very-careful with the molded T-hose gas line, it's easy to rip that trying to remove it, especially on a 25 year-old bike. I use a small angled pick to open the end of the T-hose, and then a red wand on a can of WD-40 to shoot some inside each side of the T-hose. That will help to allow the T-hose to slide-off.

https://www.harborfreight.com/mini-pick-and-hook-set-63697.html

Yeah that’s a project I really don’t want to get into after my last endeavor. If you can see big red I am still waiting on the Crank Case 2 gasket after doing that whole “starter clutch, 3 bolts turned to shit” project.

 

[Fire-medic]

Well, try draining the float bowls, scope-out the gas tank to see what's in-there, replace tha gas filter, and check-out the air filter. None of that requires much in the way of time or disassembly, and it should give you a clue as-to what type of service the bike got, or didn't get. What color is your brake fluid in the handlebar reservoirs? Removing the caps is better-than peering through the round window, as you can see if there is any particulate material/residue floating-around above the floor of the reservoir.

 

[ouchez]

I may have the cure for your bike. you will have to remove the top cover and track down where your toggle switch goes but i bet it goes to a aftermarket digital ignition controller . that is why when you flip it you change a programed ignition curve. I have one on my v-max. Sounds like it may be programed wrong. If it does go to a aftermarket control go to WWW.DYNATEK/DYNA3000.COM . Your model should be D3K7-6 DYNA3000 1990-2007. THE UNIT WILL EITHER HAVE A PLACE ON THE BACK FOR A USB PLUG (I have no ideal what type it takes) mine came with the unit. you will find all you need to know but you can call 1 800 928-3962 and ask for tech. There is a older model that has switches to set a pre-programed ignition curves and rev limit you can set. The new ones are programed on your laptop and sent via usb to controller. you can use only 2 curves to switch from witch the switch comes in. Good luck man.

New VMAX, Yes we DO NEED a NEW VMAX in 2021... The answer is not the MT-10. LOL!