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jim.chandler

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Hi I'm just about to purchase a 2000 Vmax, never owned one before, I currently have a 2015 Triumph T100, 1984 BMW R65 and a 1975 Yamaha RD350b cafe racer, I'm looking forward to learning and maybe modifying the Vmax, cheers Jim
 
Info helpful to you:

http://vmoa.net/VMX12-Service-Manual01.pdf
I suggest printing out a copy and putting it in a 3-ring binder for shop use. Take time to learn the organization, the first ~64pp. are annual updates year-by-year. Then come the sections by topic: engine, electrical, carburetors, etc. The Appendix has sizes of bolts, nuts, routing of wires, hoses, etc. and more.

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/new-vmax-owner-faqs-new-members-please-read.21240/
Lots of answers to your questions here.

Try using the search function (upper right) to find threads on things you need to research. Someone on here has probably already had a similar issue or the same.
 
Hi I'm just about to purchase a 2000 Vmax, never owned one before, I currently have a 2015 Triumph T100, 1984 BMW R65 and a 1975 Yamaha RD350b cafe racer, I'm looking forward to learning and maybe modifying the Vmax, cheers Jim
Be careful, the Mod Monkey might seal your Credit Card an not give it back. Till it's satisfied, Welcome to the group of misfits. I have an 06 with some of the usual mods and some not.
 

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Here’s a couple of pictures, it’s quite high mileage, but been looked after and serviced regularly
 

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I see aftermarket rear reservoir shocks, brake rotors, backrest/luggage rack; yes, it appears well cared-for, welcome.
 
It's a lot of fun, it has so much grunt, bits I'm not to keen on, the brakes aren't great and the low-speed handling is a bit iffy, but apart from that I'm loving it
 
Check on the backs of the brake pads and see what is the friction compound. HH is what most of us use, those who like better brakes. Change the brake fluid completely every year or two. Removing water from the brake system means better braking action, less chance of the brake fluid boiling (water trapped in brake fluid boils at a temperature less than one-half of DOT 5.1!). It also keeps the brake system components free of rust, longer.

You want low-speed handling, take-up observed trials. Seriously, ensure that your front suspension fasteners are torqued properly (there is a sequence to tightening things to minimize any issues, check the service manual) http://vmoa.net/VMX12-Service-Manual01.pdf and look on youtube for Sean Morley's 'bump test' for proper tightening of the steering head bearings. If your steering feels 'notchy' as you at a standstill move the forks from right-stop to left-stop, you need to replace the steering head bearings, plenty of threads on that. The bottom race can come-out with a long drift punch, the top more-easily is removed from placing a couple of weld beads on the race, and using that to then drive the outer race out from below. Grinding a couple of 'eyebrows' 180 degrees apart in the steel of the steering head bearing step, will allow you to much easier remove that outer, upper race in the future, though for most VMax owners, steering head bearing replacement is a once in a lifetime (of that bike) job. Just the action of welding the bead onto the outer race will usually transmit sufficient heat to the piece to ease the outer race removal.
 
Thanks for that, I think the problem is I'm used to a 2015 triumph T100, and the Vmax is a totally different bike, so needs to be treated differently.
 
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