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Maxedout

Maxedout

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Hello again everyone,

Talked to a mechanic last night about putting a nitrous kit on my 07' vmax.
He does primarily Honda and asked me to go to the boards to see what other vmax owners are running.
Wet or dry.
Brand names.
Websites offering.
My first compulsion brought me here.
Not looking to drag race but want aesthetics
and an occasional boost of HP.
Any help is always appreciated.
I will purchase what is recommended in here.
Thanks in advance,

Ray
 
Your going to want a wet system for a 750+ cc 4cyl

Plenty of choices out there, NOS and NX seem to be the most popular and you can have either system for under $800. If you do what I did and design your own from various makers, the price will go up pretty quick.

Make sure you add a fuel pressure switch so that if you funn lw on the fuel side of things the nitrous system won't activate.

Back in '84 I didn't have such a switch on my bike and payed for it. Ever since all my bikes with the exception of my chopper and Goldwing have had a n2o system on them and I haven't had a lick of problems with them.

Also pay attention to the amount your going to be spraying. Rule of thumb is a stock motor can take 20 hp per cyl tops. If your going to hit a 80 shot of squeeze in your motor up your octaine or get yourself an ignition that can retard the spark to play it on the safe side. I run a dyna 3k and have hit several 80hp shots with no detonation issues.

Purge systems: on short line setups, its more bling then function. but they look cool.

Gauges: fuel, nitrous pressure are a couple good ones to have.

Progressive controllers: Your high end 7 sec bikes are using them. They are great for dialing in track condition. Some still like to use the happy button, but those that do tend to use a lower shot. In my old Turbo/n2o bike I went from a throttle activated 40hp shot and a 100 hit that came from the happy button. Once I went to a controller, I found I had more control and could dial the bike in to the track conditions. However, the way the controller works is it rapidly opens and closes the solonoids, this is very hard on some of them out there, so email and ask questions about the units your going to order. I just sold the pulsoids I purchased from noswizards.com in the UK, not the cheapest out there, but they worked fantastic with the controller. You don't want to have a solenoid break on you and either stick open (Nitrous) or not open at all (Fuel).
 
KJShover said:
Your going to want a wet system for a 750+ cc 4cyl

Plenty of choices out there, NOS and NX seem to be the most popular and you can have either system for under $800. If you do what I did and design your own from various makers, the price will go up pretty quick.

Make sure you add a fuel pressure switch so that if you funn lw on the fuel side of things the nitrous system won't activate.

Back in '84 I didn't have such a switch on my bike and payed for it. Ever since all my bikes with the exception of my chopper and Goldwing have had a n2o system on them and I haven't had a lick of problems with them.

Also pay attention to the amount your going to be spraying. Rule of thumb is a stock motor can take 20 hp per cyl tops. If your going to hit a 80 shot of squeeze in your motor up your octaine or get yourself an ignition that can retard the spark to play it on the safe side. I run a dyna 3k and have hit several 80hp shots with no detonation issues.

Purge systems: on short line setups, its more bling then function. but they look cool.

Gauges: fuel, nitrous pressure are a couple good ones to have.

Progressive controllers: Your high end 7 sec bikes are using them. They are great for dialing in track condition. Some still like to use the happy button, but those that do tend to use a lower shot. In my old Turbo/n2o bike I went from a throttle activated 40hp shot and a 100 hit that came from the happy button. Once I went to a controller, I found I had more control and could dial the bike in to the track conditions. However, the way the controller works is it rapidly opens and closes the solonoids, this is very hard on some of them out there, so email and ask questions about the units your going to order. I just sold the pulsoids I purchased from noswizards.com in the UK, not the cheapest out there, but they worked fantastic with the controller. You don't want to have a solenoid break on you and either stick open (Nitrous) or not open at all (Fuel).
Click to expand...

Impressive article.
I'm saving.
 
im going to go with the nx street kit when i save up the money it's a wet kit with 4 nozzles 1 for each cylinder it is adjustable from 40, 60, 80, 100 hp jets and the kit comes with everything you need except a fuel pressure safty switch ( recommended ) and nitrous of course. buy it now on ebay $750 and fuel switch is around $30 on nx web site.
 
Jim, not to burst your bubble, but I wanted to make sure you know that kit is not everything you will need (and I'm sure you know that). I went with NX as well and have nothing but good things to say about them and their product. I have a fairly well documented thread about my first nitrous build here: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=2718&highlight=morley+nitrous

I was trying to get a complete package made up for a few guys here, but nothing ever got completed and no one made a full commitment to buy so I let it slide. Here was the thread on that: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=5813&highlight=morley+nitrous

You will most likely want to get longer than 12" SS braided lines, you will need an arming switch, brackets for the solenoids, maybe a purge solenoid for showin off:punk: a small in-line fuel filter, some additional fuel source (I made a fitting that screwed into the fuel tank drain hole.) I would also get a small electrical terminal block so you can take off/add wires, move power/grounds etc. If you want brackets that mount between the carbs, let me know and I can have some made up for you. Oh, and another thing, you will need to find some way to mount the bottle. I hope I'm not deterring you from trying this... believe me... it is well worth it!!! These are just some of the things to keep in mind when you are pricing things. And one more thing, we (Sean helped me on this) added a small bead of aluminum weld on the intakes so when we drilled out the holes for the nozzles, we had more surface area for the threads and I would also recommend you doing the same.... which leads me to my next thought... make sure you get a 1/16" NPT tap, and you might as well get some 1/16" plugs as well, so you can plug the holes if you ever take out the nozzles.

I'll stop there for now, but please feel free to contact me if you have any questions. I'm no expert, but I'll help out if I can.
Good luck!
Jeff
 
ya i guess i just knew in my head that i had to make brackets for solenoids and a way to mount the bottle. so yes my mistake you are right i did kinda make it sound like when the ups guy drops it off your ready to go. i didn't think about the lines i figured 12'' would be long enough but then again this will be my first nitrous experience and i have always liked the nx stuff for some reason so i thought this would be the kit to get. also good idea on the welding to make the intake wall thicker to tap it. im sure when i get my kit i will have some questions for you. just curious how much you charge for the bracket and do u have a pick of how it mounts. thanks
 
Check out that first link I sent you (sorry there are about 15 pages, but lots of pics) Here is a link that should show you the brackets: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=30424&postcount=72

I could get them to you for $25... maybe less. I would have them laser cut from stainless and I could have them bent or you could bend them. And that reminds me, the fuel pressure safety switch can be found for $7-$10... if I remember correctly it is a Hobbs pressure switch and I think I have the part number in that first thread... NX bumps up the price quite a bit.... and another thing... a low pressure (0-15 psi) fuel gauger is also handy to have as well. Lots of little things just add up.

I would also recommend getting the Dyna3000 ignition as well, not only for the advance/retard curves but for the rev limiter... you will be amazed how much faster the bike reacts. Plus, it is 1/2 the size of the stock ignition and you will need the space for the electrical wires. If you went with the stage 7 carb kit, the individual air filters will open up a little more room under the faux tank cover as well.... just a few more things to think about. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask, and if you want to talk about any of this, feel free to give me a ring @ 3l9-46l-8969

Jeff
 
ok thanks i will check out the link for pics. i do have the dyna 3000 already.
 
Can you also explain Dry NOS and the limits with the pro and con??

rocl
 
A wet system injects both fuel and nitrous into the engine. Dry systems just inject nitrous and leave the additional fuel to be regulated by the fuel injected system.

The stock Vmax uses carbs, so a Dry system will eat your motor unless you run it really rich, then you wont run right without the n2O being injected or worse screw up the guestimate on the mix and eat your motor.

The wet system is best for the Vmax with carbs.
 
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