Odd ball mod

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gundoc_iowa

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Okay I have an 04 Vmax. On the left side near the "scoop" there is a small metal toggle switch. I thought it might be for the tail light or headlight to cut off the power. That wasn't it. I thought it might be to disable the bike so if someone tried to steal it. Nope. Turns out it is a three position switch....and with the switch in the middle position the idle drops and seems sometimes to even sputter a bit. With it left or right however, the bike idles perfectly. Running down the highway if you flip the switch to the left or right position you can feel a difference as well....wtf?
 
try to flip the switch into different positions and note at what rpms the vboost hits. 0, 3000, 6000? i wonder if it's a t-boost or z-boost selection switch
 
you can look from the right side of the bike and see the vboost servo move, so switch in a position and rev it up and like the guys say should see it move at different rpm's.
 
Could also be one of Dale Walker Holeshot Autoboost modules.
 
Try riding it and switching it at 3-4 K rpms . If there is a difference in sound & power , v-boost has been activated and you have a T-Boost installed . ( or the fan turned on , LOL ) .
 
Cruising down the highway at 5000rpm it makes a slight difference. But would these mods affect it at idle?! It audibly and on the tach drops rpms at idle. Maybe 100 revs.
 
Rode it into work, the Vboost kicks in at about 6500 like it always did. I don't get it.

So you flipped the switch to the right and boost kicked in at 6500 , and then you flipped it to the left and the boost kicked in at 6500 as well ? What about the middle position ? Same thing ?
 
Cruising down the highway at 5000rpm it makes a slight difference. But would these mods affect it at idle?! It audibly and on the tach drops rpms at idle. Maybe 100 revs.

When the T-boost mod is done two diodes and a 4k resistor have to be wired in. Someone may have tried this mod and did it incorrectly.:confused2:
 
Get in there and investigate. Takes about 1 minute of wrenching to remove the faux and scoop. Should be able to trace out the wires from there.
 
With the Vboost butterfly's in the open position, it does change the engine Idle. Its been so long since I had mine open, I can't remember if idle RPMs go up or down....
 
No matter what position the switch is in Vboost licks in at 6500 rpm. Doesn't make any sense. Something is causing a draw in the mid position.
 
Weird. "Old" t-boost things had to be spliced in and the resistors added as said above. The newer ones were plug-n-play, all that was contained in a little puck that had two "intercept" connectors, it just went between the factory harness and the servo controller. Those had switches for 3000-off-6000

Sounds like yours might be a constant boost/stock? Having the boost open at idle would make it way too rich and have a crappy(slow) idle.

Otherwise, yeah, dig into it and grab a picture of what you find attached to the switch.

Wonder if it's some sort of timing adjustment and not related to the boost at all?
 
With the Vboost butterfly's in the open position, it does change the engine Idle. Its been so long since I had mine open, I can't remember if idle RPMs go up or down....

Open Vboost at idle will lower RPMS and give it a really nasty/good sounding idle..

If your idle is set low with Vboost closed and you open the vboost at idle sometimes it will even die if you don't raise the idle......

I ditched my whole Vboost system except for the butterflies, wired them open so they could be closed for synching, have never regreted it one time...Vboost is cool but I think it's a little over rated part of the "Myth"
 

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