Output shaft oil leak

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The output shaft is held into the engine block with 3 bolts. The bolts are arranged 120 degrees apart. 12, 4, and 8 o'clock. One of the bolts gets a thick washer behind the head. Anyone know the purpose of this washer? Can anyone confirm what position this washer gets installed in: 12, 4, or 8 o'clock? Per the fiche, it looks like 12 o'clock.

It seems that I have a small oil leak coming from the output shaft. I noticed some oil coming out the drain hole in swingarm boot. Also some coming from the joint between the swingarm and differential. Its definitely engine oil. Oil level is a touch low. The diff is full.

I put the bike on the center stand, started it up, and put it in 1st gear. I pulled the swingarm boot back to take a look in there. Hard to see but it appears the seal around the output shaft yoke is dry. There is some oil visible in the boot and in the swingarm. I'm wondering if its possible I put the washer in the wrong position and this is causing a leak? Wishful thinking.....I'd rather not disassemble the u-joint and yoke, pull the pinion, replace the seal, install a new crush collar, and re-assemble.

 

[one2dmax]

12:00 and I suspect to cut back on the load. I have not checked the depth of the threads to see if they needed to shorted in up. They did not have it on the earlier blocks either.

There is an oring around the housing that is held in by the three bolts. Could be leaking there?

 

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Thanks for info on the washer.

The o-ring is only about a year old. Seems like it would be hard to get oil past the oring, and the flange built into the output shaft and into the swingarm. The seal is the only thing that makes sense at this point. I will have to tear into it and investigate.

 

[[email protected]]

:bang head:
I'm getting fed up with this thing!

I pulled the output shaft. Tore it apart. Installed a new oil seal, crush collar, and o-ring. Re-installed and put a tiny amount of yamabond 4 on the o-ring. Also put some on the bolt that install in the 3:00 position. According to the manual, this is the bolt that gets the heavy flat washer, not the one at 12:00. It seems there is some oil in this hole. I cleaned it out and put a dab of yamabond on bolt threads, close to the head of the bolt.

Went for a short ride yesterday. All seemed good.

Rode into work today. There is oily residue around the rear valve cover. Seems like its starting to leak. WTF?

Saw some oil near the pinch bolts in the case that help secure the output shaft. Not sure where this is coming from. Nothing much. Not drops. Just enough for the surface to look shiny. Can't tell where its coming from.

Swingarm boot is still clean and dry wheras before, it had oil in it.

 

[davesax36]

OK. I think I may have an issue with this, too. Is it possible that the rubber o-ring has dried out in less than a year? I've got a pretty steady leak dripping out of the output shaft into the swingarm boot as well. I think I put the washer in the 12:00 position as well. Looks like I gotta pull my swingarm again to test for this, huh? At least the wheel and fender are already off...

 

[[email protected]]

I never fixed my leak. It's not severe but it's annoying. I rebuilt the output shafts with new seals. New oring. Some yamabond. Still there.

I'm thinking I've got oil leaking into the boot from somewhere else. The seal around the output shaft is dry.

I'm going to try a few things this week. Hoping to be ready for thunder with no leaks. We will see

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[davesax36]

Yeah. The whole outer aluminum ring around mine is dry, but it's pouring out the middle under the u-joint and dripping into the boot. I was wondering if it could be some weird force from my final drive resting on the ground and maybe forcing the u-joint into a funny position since the bike is on the center stand. It makes me think it's a seal that's more inside than around the whole aluminum part.

 

[Redbone]

I agree Mike, hope your leak dries up and you can make it down. If you make it to tech day maybe Tyler (and maybe Damon) can take a look at it and give some input.

 

[one2dmax]

Is it gear oil (from the diff) or engine oil? Gear oil can work it's way past the driveshaft seal too.

 

[davesax36]

I'm pretty sure mine is engine oil. My diff has been downhill from the middle gear for months.

Unless a ton of it flowed in there right after I filled it and put on the stands.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Might be worthwhile checking that the breather pipe isn't kinked or blocked and it is crank-case pressure forcing oil out of the weakest seal.

 

[davesax36]

Here's a little video. The audio is really loud so headphone users beware.

http://youtu.be/Fm0cEmZhIZQ

You can see I'm generating one drip about every 15 seconds. It is pooled just a bit around the bottom of the U-joint. I'm thinking I'll need to replace a seal of some sort, but I' not sure where. I'm gonna try to tighten those three bolts a bit, but there were torqued to spec when I put everything back together the first time.


Would running a Venture drive shaft with a stock pumpkin put pressure on a seal and mess something up? I actually don't know if I have a venture shaft or a stock shaft in there. I'm just using the only one I've ever had. There was a venture pumpkin on the bike when all this started, though.

 

[davesax36]

I think I found the problem...anybody got an output gear I can get or can I loosen and flip this one so the leak is on the top?

 

[one2dmax]

yep, there she is. usually damaged like that during an incorrect engine removal

 

[davesax36]

Too bad we didn't notice it when I had my motor at your place. you got any sitting around up there? Or maybe I'd left it here. Either way. I guess I need one. Do I need to try to switch the gear so the shims keep it lined up or should I just throw one in there?

 

[[email protected]]

It's not advisable to swap the entire output shaft assembly if you pull that carrier out you will find a gear on the other side. That gear mates with the mid gear. *should* be replaced as a set only. I'm sure it could be done but, not recommended.

Disassembly of the unit to replace that seal is straightforward. Remove the three bolts, remove output shaft assy. Remove u joint. Remove nut that holds the yoke. I pressed the shaft out of the carrier with a 2 jaw puller. Could probably just tap it out if needed.

I might have a used seal around here somewhere. New is not too expensive though.

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[davesax36]

I can't figure out what part that is on the fiche. The brass looking part and the rubber seal will need to be replaced. The picture on RonAyers is from the wrong side.

I know I'm not supposed to swap the whole thing because of the shims, and I'm not sure I want to risk an ebay part.

 

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The brass looking part and oil seal are one piece. #18 on the middle gear fiche. PN 93101-35085-00 I believe.

You may want to get a new crush collar too. If your careful, you can reuse the old one. As you tighten the pinion nut take it slow. If you make it too tight and it doesn't turn freely and you need to back off the nut, chances are you will need to replace the collar. Here's the PN: 2H7-17571-01-00SPACER,EXPANSION

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[davesax36]

Do you think I can reuse my expansion spacer? I just ordered the parts. Thanks for the tip. It was cheaper to get the two parts new than any of the ebay stuff even after shipping.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

That kind of damage also happens when the nut shears off and tumbles around inside the rubber boot. I had to replace a whole output assembly due that.