Overheating?

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SITORR

Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
Location
monrovia ca
I just got my bike a 2000 with 10,000miles on it. I have had the bike all checked out and it's running perfect! i did notice when i'm in stop and go traffic the the temp arrow starts to go up just below the the red mark. the fan will come on and it seems to just sit blow the red mark. is all that normal? the temp in caifornia have been in th 70 -80. what is going to happen then it's 100? if i install the manual switch will that fix the problem? i would just turn the switch on when i'm not on the freeway?
 
I am a firm believer in a manual fan switch.I know of other vmax's that changed the temp switch instead of bypassing it.The fan will come on early alright but then it never shuts off till after the bike is shutdown and finally cools off.

Maybe I am a control freak but I prefer to decide when and how long it is going to run.It is very easy to do,its cheap,and the diagram and instructions are already in this forum somewhere under a different thread.Pics too!
 
SITORR said:
I just got my bike a 2000 with 10,000miles on it. I have had the bike all checked out and it's running perfect! i did notice when i'm in stop and go traffic the the temp arrow starts to go up just below the the red mark. the fan will come on and it seems to just sit blow the red mark. is all that normal? the temp in caifornia have been in th 70 -80. what is going to happen then it's 100? if i install the manual switch will that fix the problem? i would just turn the switch on when i'm not on the freeway?
Sitorr, the Max is set up like most vehicles where the engine should run at a predetermined temperature for many reasons, not the least being performance and longevity. When the Max is cold, the thermostat is closed so the engine can warm up quicker. At about where the rivet is on the temp gage the thermostat opens. This is the lower temperature in the temp range. The thermostat is the main heat controller and it's degree of opening varies with the temperature of the engine. When the engine temperature goes above the rivet, the thermostat is fully open. The upper temp range is controlled by the temperature sensing unit or 'switch', that some like to call it. About half way between the rivet and the thin red line, this switch turns on the fan to lower the temp. Letting the temp go up to the thin red line is the upper most desirable temperature. If it keeps rising in the red, that's an indication to be aware and NOT let it get into the bold red line. So between the rivet and the thin red line = no sweat. Like so many have done, installing a manual override switch to cool the nerves mostly is a cheap and quick fix. Changing out the sensing unit (switch) to make it run cooler than intended is not a wise decision.
 
thanks guys, I saw the fan switch install on this site so i'll go check it out and install it. thanks for the advise! this site it great for all the questions i'm going to have!
 
When the fan is turned on earlier in Dubai weather it cools the coolant in the radiator sufficiently so that when the thermostat opens, cooling starts more effectively, eventually the engine settles at the optimum operating temperature no matter how much cooling is going on, you will never get to the point were the engine gets cooler than operating temperature unless you are in very cold climate.
So having the fan on earlier will never over cool the bike!
If you install a manual switch in this weather you will find yourself having it on most of the time and that is why some of us use the Nissan sentra 88 thermo switch or equivalent.

For people in mild weather installing a thermo switch becomes annoying as the fan keeps humming needlessly , for these conditions a manual switch is the way to go.
In a 110*F temps in a traffic jam even if you remove the thermostat completely the engine will still not over cool.

It is not uncommon for people to completely remove the thermostat in 110* weather and having the air condition on full blast the car engine will over heat a little creating a market for bigger radiators.

It is one thing to be at 110* on an open road but a completly different story in a stop and go traffic situation.
________
Ford F-650 picture
 
Last edited:
firefly said:
It is not uncommon for people to completely remove the thermostat in 110* weather and having the air condition on full blast the car engine will over heat a little creating a market for bigger radiators.

It is one thing to be at 110* on an open road but a completly different story in a stop and go traffic situation.

Fools they be! No thermostat = coolant moving through the radiator WAY too fast to be cool effectively.
________
DODGE MAGNUM HISTORY
 
Last edited:
mikemax04 said:
Sitorr, the Max is set up like most vehicles where the engine should run at a predetermined temperature for many reasons, not the least being performance and longevity. When the Max is cold, the thermostat is closed so the engine can warm up quicker. At about where the rivet is on the temp gage the thermostat opens. This is the lower temperature in the temp range. The thermostat is the main heat controller and it's degree of opening varies with the temperature of the engine. When the engine temperature goes above the rivet, the thermostat is fully open. The upper temp range is controlled by the temperature sensing unit or 'switch', that some like to call it. About half way between the rivet and the thin red line, this switch turns on the fan to lower the temp. Letting the temp go up to the thin red line is the upper most desirable temperature. If it keeps rising in the red, that's an indication to be aware and NOT let it get into the bold red line. So between the rivet and the thin red line = no sweat. Like so many have done, installing a manual override switch to cool the nerves mostly is a cheap and quick fix. Changing out the sensing unit (switch) to make it run cooler than intended is not a wise decision.


I know this issue was beaten to death earlier but here goes.
Normal operating temperature for the Max is the temp the bike runs when there is optimum air flow across the radiator.
I have yet to see a Max run higher than the 3:30-4:00 position when cruising down the highway no matter how hot it was outside unless the cooling system is screwed up.
The temp the needle climbs to when sitting still or riding at 10-15 mph is not (in my opinion) a good normal operating temp.
3:00 position is 212-215 and yes the thermostat opens at that point.

When the needle is almost touching the Red it's around 235-degrees....
Way the hell too hot (in my opinion)

In addition if the thermal switch is going to let the temp almost reach the red, turn on, and then bring it back down to 180-190 (below the rivet) then why not install a fan switch to prevent this massive temp cycle up and down and just keep the temp where it's gonna end up anyway???

It might not really be needed but I know no other vehicle I have ever owned allowed temperature swings like the max does. This continual expansion and contraction of all the engine parts seems like it just would'nt be good. Slow thermal cycling seems like it would be better overall....

Then again I may just be an alarmist worrying about an issue that will never happen........
 
Angel of Death said:
Fools they be! No thermostat = coolant moving through the radiator WAY too fast to be cool effectively.

Agreed, unless the radiator is massively oversized the "exposure time" for the hot water that just came into the radiator is way too short to bring temps down before being sent back to the radiator.

Running without a thermostat is depending on ideal ambient temps to get away with doing this...

I have run some old hot rods this way in the past and seen the following...

When temps outside are too high the system will gradually get hotter and hotter....

Flip side is in cool weather things may not ever come up to efficient operating temps either...
 
Engine Temprature

Just got the bike back on the road and since the outside temp has started to drop, I noticed that the needle does not get to the middle hash line when riding. Even in the summer months when I'm on the highway the needle will be below the middle hash mark, if in traffic it moves up past the hash mark and the fan will kick in. Any reason to be concerned,

The temp out here does not go below 5-10 degrees celsius in the winter

Thanks,

Ron:cheers:
 
Mine never gets up to to the 3:00 position and kicks the fan on no matter hot temps are unless I'm cruising in traffic at less than 40mph or so.

Running down the road at speed even on a 100 degree day it stays around the 4:00 postion.

Rusty
 
:hmmm:the problem with thermostat removal is not the speed of the coolant. it is the fact that the pump is centrifugal and it needs some backpressure or it will not pump. keeping it simple, basic heat transfer is related to only temp difference, amount of area and transfer rate[metal coolant] the more flow the more cooling ,the bigger the radiator the more cooling, and the greater the difference between the coolant temp and the air temp the more cooling:coolgleamA:
 
Back
Top