Pauls Pea Shooter

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BIGMO

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I have been talking to Paul Czernics about a carb problem I was having. After a few emails and a call I think he realized i was NOT the most knowledgable carb person.... soooo he posted procedure and pics on his site. I havent got a chance to try it out yet as it snowed here AGAIN. but once it warms up ill let ya know how it works out. Since the guy is a carb Guru Im sure it works great unless i screw it up somehow lol. I assume he wont mind since its on his site.

http://home.comcast.net/~onlyone12/carbs1.htm

Thanks again Paul. Ill let ya know how i do.
 
Make sure you wear goggles. Depending on how dirty the circuit(s) are the carbs might backfire and spit Seafoam up towards you.
 
As they say in Butler, PA.......getting Seafoam in the eyes sucks donkey balls.
 
maleko89 said:
As they say in Butler, PA.......getting Seafoam in the eyes sucks donkey balls.


I don't know about sea foam but straight carb cleaner really sucks dirty donkey balls in the eye.

It will also screw up the clear plastic instrument cover too; I know, I screwed mine up.
 
LMAo Mark, hey again thx for the info you sent me. Its freakin cold here again but as soon as it warms ill be fuckin my carbs up.... err i mean fixin my carbs. hey I saw some pics of your bike and some mods somewhere. I like the rear fender u did. I HATE the stock rear and taillights, they look like a pig that shit his guts out his ass. WTF did u do to those pipes. they are stickin straight up. how the hell did u do that?? looks awesome.
O ya I tell u I tryed starting the max and battery went dead... but not before i heard a smack sound like starter hittin a flywheel. it kept cranking till it went dead so im gonna ignore it....
 
Yep, me too Rusty. It'll take engine paint off too....at least the good Honda stuff will.
 
Mark,
What were u saying about making a carb sync tool? I bought that weber cause it was cheapest. and i need one. but Id still like to buy an easier one that can do all 4 at once. when i can afford it. I bought my 152.5s today, it appears ive had a yamaha dealer in this town all along. They are dumbasses though. Ive had a few dealings with them. guy tried to give me 3 152.5s and one 150. and was an ass like he knew it all. I laughed my ass off telling him uh hey bud i said 152.5. kinda funny. I borrowed my friends trickle charger so im gonna put that on tommorrow. then maybe this weekend get started on the pea shooter. after that sync with the weber. and check my float level. change the plugs, and check plug wires. What I really need to start learning is how to do a valve check. I dont even know where to start with that. but im sure it hasnt ever been done. O ya and I need to change fuel filter. Am I missing anything?
 
It's a stock rear fender with some cheapo turn signals and an early version of a UFO Cycles tail light.

As for the pipes, they're Mark's Exhaust. The only thing I had him do different was turn down exhaust tips and 2.25 inch outlets. Man, you should hear them.....very cool.

Carb tools....look at a Morgan Carbtune II or a Motion Pro from either University or www.denniskirk.com.

For valve check, go through the procedure in the Clymer. It's outlines very nicely in there. Start querying the shops and see if they trade shims. Call around to the local bike shops or Toyota dealers and ask if they swap 25 mm diameter valve shims. You'll need a valve shim removal tool from Yamaha and two valve cover gaskets. You'll also need a 32 mm socket to turn the crank via the flywheel nut. Get some Permatex Blue RTV sealant. You'll use this to hold the valve cover gaskets to the top covers while fitting them back on the motor.

Like I said, when you get ready let me know and I'll forward some notes and pictures that'll help you out.
 
borrowed a charger from my buddy... i got one thing to ask... What Sadist with midget hands designed the access to the bolts under that seat!!!! thats plum-dumb (say it fast). i swear i almost ripped the seat off. then trying to get clips on those terminals is tiiiggghhhht. I was gonna pull the battery out buy guess what an electrical pannel was bolted on top of it. LOL i finally just snaked it in there and left the battery hooked up. think thats bad?
 
Notice the track that the middle section follows. The middle section can slide further making access to these bolts easier.
 
couple of questions. Im doing the pauls pea shooter as it is easiest and i dont have ait for shotgun.
1.) what does the pilot screw regulate. ie. if i turn it out too much what does that do/cause. or if i dont turn it out enough same question.
2.) I bought the 4 main jets ( 152.5s @ 4.50$ a pop 9rip off) does this 152.5 size only affect the bike at WOT or does it also affect lower and mid power range also?
 
Mixture screw is just that...controls how much air/fuel mixture exits out the pilot hole that's just below the throttle valve.

Main jets start having an affect around 7000 rpm. Full affect from 7500 rpms to redline.
 
Mixture screw is just that...controls how much air/fuel mixture exits out the pilot hole that's just below the throttle valve.

TO make sure; what u are calling the "mixture screw" is the screw that is originally behind the brass plug u hafta drill out right? some might call it the pilot screw? and that does both air and fuel. so if i back it our that makes bike run rich. if i screw it in that makes it run lean (ie. cuts off fuel and air to the engine).
This mixture/pilot screw, and the clips on the needle (notch 1-4), and changing paj1 and paj2 to different sizes (which i dont wanna do) .... these are how i ajust/ tune my carbs? besides the carb sync srew. Or is there more?
 
Lewis, you got it. I'm talking the ones behind the brass plugs. Pilot screws are another name for 'em.

PFJ + PAJ1 + PAJ2 is your pilot mixture. This resulting mixture is controlled by the mixture/pilot scres. To adjust midrange....needles. Top end....main jets. You should tune the carbs in this order:

1) Float level = all four should be 17 mm
2) main jet
3) needle
4) pilot mixtures
 
Mark i was just re-reading your article in vboost (good one btw) and you wre talking about scott petersons bike.
howed you know his plug wires were shot? Does someone make a set of plug wires pre cut for vmaxs'?(if mine are shot also)

and mostly how did you know his coils were dirty and what did u do to fix em.

thanks for all the info you are giving me. BTW arent you supposed to be at work? or are u retired also?
 
On the dyno his hp/torque curve wasn't a constant line. It would cut out which indicates ignition was cutting out. So, stuck a multimeter up in the plug boots and it was reading open. Tested boots, wires, coils. We replaced the wires and I think boots too. When looking in where the wires connect to the coil there was crud in there so we cleaned that with electrical contact cleaner. WD-40 works too. While the seat was off we saw the fuel filter and it was nasty...looked like the inside of a septic tank.

I am at work....I have internet access. :) I just take quite a few breaks. :)
 
BIGMO said:
borrowed a charger from my buddy... i got one thing to ask... What Sadist with midget hands designed the access to the bolts under that seat!!!! thats plum-dumb (say it fast). i swear i almost ripped the seat off. then trying to get clips on those terminals is tiiiggghhhht. I was gonna pull the battery out buy guess what an electrical pannel was bolted on top of it. LOL i finally just snaked it in there and left the battery hooked up. think thats bad?


A 10mm swivel socket that has the swivel built into it is almost indespensible for this. A 3/8" drive works fine but a 1/4" might be even better.
 
OK I changed fuel filter, and spark plugs last night.... btw, those plugs are a biatch to get to. also the yama spec plugs are 18mm socket, and the socket dont fit in the hole. UNbelievable!! had to use the plug wrench from the tool bag. what a biatch. :damn angry:
Anyway I was trying to do the pauls pea shooter and am not sure if I have the air/fuel mixture screw set right. If I screw them all the way in how many turns do I back em out? So I can reset them.
I did the pea shooter, alot of smoke and got sea foam all over me .... But it didnt seem to help. when choke is off and I blip throttle the engine still shuts off, if I keep it blipped then the engine will die completly. Its like a vacuum line is off or something. I dont get it. So I want to make sure I got the air/fuel scews set Close and try it again. any ideas?
 
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