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I got a old PW 80 a couple years ago for the right price, free.
It needs a rebuild. The whole top end is toast as well as the the big end rod bearings. I can grab the rod and move it moves about 3/4" side to side.
So, I price parts and say its too expensive to fix and it sits. I just recently found some deals on ebay. New crank, main bearings, seals, and gasket kit for less than $100. Then, new top end including cylinder, pistone rings, gaskets, wrist pin, bearing , clips, gaskets, for $100.
I've been into a few 2 strokes before. No big deal. I tear the thing apart, throw the bearings in the freezer, heat up the cases a touch, bearing are in like flynn.
Next up, install the crank. It was a TIGHT fit. I pulled it into the case with my homemade tool. I've had it for about 15 years works great. Basically a piece of thick aluminum with multiple holes. The crank goes in the center hole, put some shims on it, put the crank nut on the crank and tighten away and it pulls itself into the bearing. I don't need no stinking press or machine shop!
After that, the trans goes in. Pretty simple with this thing and only 3 gears. Then the other case half. That went real well too. Just slapped em all together. Lined up the trans shafts. A tap with the dead blow, a LIGHT tap. The it all pulled together with the case bolts. Cases assembled in no time!!
I go to spin the crank and its tight as HELL. Doesn't want to go past TDC if moving it by hand. I can typically grab the con rod and pull it up and the crank will spin all the way around freely on a fresh rebuild. Not this thing though. It tough as nails to turn by hand. I put a nut and wrench on the crank to spin it. It feel smooth but not free? Never had this before.
I checked to see if there is any veritcal or horizontal runout of the crank fly which may indicate an inproper rebuild on the crank when the crankpin is pressed in. I didn't notice anything over a .001" difference in either direction.
Anyone ever have this experience? It turns nice and smooth. NO grinding. It just seems to take WAY more effort than it should.
One more question. There was no case gasket in the kit. I had some permatex ultra black high temp RTV silicone. Put a very thin layer on one case half and then assembled. Anyone have input on this? Hopefully it holds. It seems like it would be fine. There was no gasket there when I tore it apart. Just a real thin layer of yamabond.
Sorry for the lengthy post, I'm bored tonight... Hope to get this bitch running soon.
Got the CR500 working good. I filed the shit out of the clutch basket and it cured my disengagement issues. I can't remember the last time it worked so smooth! Getting ready for the mem day weekend riding trip with the family and hope to have all this old junk working by then.
It needs a rebuild. The whole top end is toast as well as the the big end rod bearings. I can grab the rod and move it moves about 3/4" side to side.
So, I price parts and say its too expensive to fix and it sits. I just recently found some deals on ebay. New crank, main bearings, seals, and gasket kit for less than $100. Then, new top end including cylinder, pistone rings, gaskets, wrist pin, bearing , clips, gaskets, for $100.
I've been into a few 2 strokes before. No big deal. I tear the thing apart, throw the bearings in the freezer, heat up the cases a touch, bearing are in like flynn.
Next up, install the crank. It was a TIGHT fit. I pulled it into the case with my homemade tool. I've had it for about 15 years works great. Basically a piece of thick aluminum with multiple holes. The crank goes in the center hole, put some shims on it, put the crank nut on the crank and tighten away and it pulls itself into the bearing. I don't need no stinking press or machine shop!
After that, the trans goes in. Pretty simple with this thing and only 3 gears. Then the other case half. That went real well too. Just slapped em all together. Lined up the trans shafts. A tap with the dead blow, a LIGHT tap. The it all pulled together with the case bolts. Cases assembled in no time!!
I go to spin the crank and its tight as HELL. Doesn't want to go past TDC if moving it by hand. I can typically grab the con rod and pull it up and the crank will spin all the way around freely on a fresh rebuild. Not this thing though. It tough as nails to turn by hand. I put a nut and wrench on the crank to spin it. It feel smooth but not free? Never had this before.
I checked to see if there is any veritcal or horizontal runout of the crank fly which may indicate an inproper rebuild on the crank when the crankpin is pressed in. I didn't notice anything over a .001" difference in either direction.
Anyone ever have this experience? It turns nice and smooth. NO grinding. It just seems to take WAY more effort than it should.
One more question. There was no case gasket in the kit. I had some permatex ultra black high temp RTV silicone. Put a very thin layer on one case half and then assembled. Anyone have input on this? Hopefully it holds. It seems like it would be fine. There was no gasket there when I tore it apart. Just a real thin layer of yamabond.
Sorry for the lengthy post, I'm bored tonight... Hope to get this bitch running soon.
Got the CR500 working good. I filed the shit out of the clutch basket and it cured my disengagement issues. I can't remember the last time it worked so smooth! Getting ready for the mem day weekend riding trip with the family and hope to have all this old junk working by then.
