Polishing up the Scoops

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Thanks, guys. I'll see what Sean can do for me. I'd toyed with polishing the things and then clearing them but as has been mentioned, probably much more efficient/ cost effective to get them chromed by a reputable shop. I like the look of polished aluminum slightly more than the chrome but I also realize there are different chromes out there. Used to look for "showroom" chrome years ago then I dabbled with Nickel but regs have made things difficult as I understand it....I'll post what I get done.
 
Sean, let me know if/when you get an updated price list. My polishing attempts also revealed the casting imperfections. I think chrome would look fantastic.

Exactly what I encountered. I polished and polished only to then see streaks in the casting. They still look better than factory but not perfect. I might get mine chromed someday but polioshing keeps me out trouble doing other things I probably shouldn't be doing. I got a stick of - Tripoli Buffing Compound D Ryobi 4oz (like $9) - and with a buffing wheel it worked pretty good. I also used Mothers after that. You can get rattle can clear. I might try that. I tried some metal spray paint on a cracked scoop I fixed (wasted a lot of time on that). It looked like shit and is now hanging on my barn wall. Looks good there.
 
I have always been a fan of polished aluminum. It presents a luster that chrome cannot. Hard to explain, but I actually prefer it for lots of bits. Upkeep is not as painful as some would lead you to believe. A bit of tidying once a season does it for me. No big deal. ( I do admit that the castings have some impurities, but I've for the most part been able to polish it out).706537F8-1A94-435A-8C80-6E5C19DFC766.jpeg
 
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I have always been a fan of polished aluminum. It presents a luster that chrome cannot. Hard to explain, but I actually prefer it for lots of bits. Upkeep is not as painful as some would lead you to believe. A bit of tidying once a season does it for me. No big deal.View attachment 74527
Agreed, I like the nickel plating for that reason when called for, although perhaps the quality of the chrome plating is the dynamic to consider as I'm sure not all chrome is created equal. I've heard back from Sean so I have my options! Your scoops look awesome, how many hours of elbow greasing did that take?
 
Exactly what I encountered. I polished and polished only to then see streaks in the casting. They still look better than factory but not perfect. I might get mine chromed someday but polioshing keeps me out trouble doing other things I probably shouldn't be doing. I got a stick of - Tripoli Buffing Compound D Ryobi 4oz (like $9) - and with a buffing wheel it worked pretty good. I also used Mothers after that. You can get rattle can clear. I might try that. I tried some metal spray paint on a cracked scoop I fixed (wasted a lot of time on that). It looked like shit and is now hanging on my barn wall. Looks good there.


Thanks, hopefully the clear coat option works for you...I will do that if I decide to polish vs chrome. Will take some brain cell life cycles and a few beers to figure it out. Sean sent me his options list and I'm getting very anxious to get something done one way or another asap.

-Mark T
 
Thanks, hopefully the clear coat option works for you...I will do that if I decide to polish vs chrome. Will take some brain cell life cycles and a few beers to figure it out. Sean sent me his options list and I'm getting very anxious to get something done one way or another asap.

-Mark T
Well you can always polish now and if you don't like it, chrome it. The $ cost of polishing it is less than going to McDonalds.
 
Agreed, I like the nickel plating for that reason when called for, although perhaps the quality of the chrome plating is the dynamic to consider as I'm sure not all chrome is created equal. I've heard back from Sean so I have my options! Your scoops look awesome, how many hours of elbow greasing did that take?

lol. To be honest, there aren't that many "hours" into them. Maybe an hour or so for both of them! I have polished a LOT of aluminum over the years and one thing I have learned is not to jump straight to the sandpaper unless it's needed. Removing clearcoat is quicker and easier with chemical means - and the resulting surfaces are much smoother and easier to polish out. The only time I go to sandpaper is if there's advanced oxidation that needs to come out (or deep scratches).
 
lol. To be honest, there aren't that many "hours" into them. Maybe an hour or so for both of them! I have polished a LOT of aluminum over the years and one thing I have learned is not to jump straight to the sandpaper unless it's needed. Removing clearcoat is quicker and easier with chemical means - and the resulting surfaces are much smoother and easier to polish out. The only time I go to sandpaper is if there's advanced oxidation that needs to come out (or deep scratches).

And make sure you hold on to it tightly when against the buffing wheel. Mine went flying across the room and I had to then sand/buff a few more scratches out.
 
Sorry for the late reply. We're still offering the exchange or on your parts (slightly less cost). Some example pics. Even have a "kit" that saves quite a bit of cost if you do a bunch at one time.
 

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I like the look and the idea of getting parts chromed but I get put off when I see some chromed parts on other bikes that is pitting and lifting, it's mostly on aluminium parts, maybe it's down to poor maintenance but peeling chrome is hard to rectify, I've polished mine but they also have streaks in them that looks like someone wiped an oily hand over, maybe I'll paint them one day or I might even look into powder coating, or just live with them as they are :cool:
 
Talked to a guy at a bike show that had a restored Z1. The pipes were beautiful.

Browns Plating in OH. He said they were great.
 
I am following. Here in NC, chroming is not possible unless sent out of state.
 
Chrome can pit/flake but if done well and kept reasonably clean will last for many years.
 
Sorry for the late reply. We're still offering the exchange or on your parts (slightly less cost). Some example pics. Even have a "kit" that saves quite a bit of cost if you do a bunch at one time.
I gotta tell you, I'd actually build an online catalog for you pro bono just to see all the stuff you sell and how much it goes for.
 
I gotta tell you, I'd actually build an online catalog for you pro bono just to see all the stuff you sell and how much it goes for.
We had a start on that once and the site got hacked. That set us back to an older site when it was finally recovered back to us. Most of my stuff is in Facebook Morleys Muscle page but it would be nice to have it on our regular site and something easily added to. BUT, most of the guys find me through word of mouth lol.
 
We had a start on that once and the site got hacked. That set us back to an older site when it was finally recovered back to us. Most of my stuff is in Facebook Morleys Muscle page but it would be nice to have it on our regular site and something easily added to. BUT, most of the guys find me through word of mouth lol.
Most people I know don't use Facebook. And if you're not registered on Facebook, you're not allowed to see anything you have on Facebook.

So if that's where you have everything, probably the better part of 75% or more of people looking for your items will never see it. Which, of course, is why everybody is having to find you by word of mouth only.
 
Most people I know don't use Facebook. And if you're not registered on Facebook, you're not allowed to see anything you have on Facebook.

So if that's where you have everything, probably the better part of 75% or more of people looking for your items will never see it. Which, of course, is why everybody is having to find you by word of mouth only.
My email is [email protected] if you want to discuss this in more depth. Thanks for the offer.
 

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