Primer keeps running when trying to start

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I bought a aftermarket pump & used the mounting bracket & the end cap off of the oem pump . The only thing with that was it only lasted for 2 yrs. & then left me sitting on the side of the road . To me the oem pump cost alot more but it's worth it .
 
The only thing with that was it only lasted for 2 yrs. & then left me sitting on the side of the road .
I have a dear friend of 40 years that just passed away. He was "fixing up" a Vmax he bought that I strongly advised against him buying.

He bought the same pump I believe. About 20 dollars or so on Amazon.

I told him that just might come back to bite him right in the ass one day when it leaves him on the side of the road. He just grinned at me and said, "That's why I bought two of them and keep the spare in the tank bag with the tool kit."
 
I have a dear friend of 40 years that just passed away. He was "fixing up" a Vmax he bought that I strongly advised against him buying.

He bought the same pump I believe. About 20 dollars or so on Amazon.

I told him that just might come back to bite him right in the ass one day when it leaves him on the side of the road. He just grinned at me and said, "That's why I bought two of them and keep the spare in the tank bag with the tool kit."

I think I paid 18 for mine but same thing There's never no guarantee on it but if I find something doesn't seem to last I stop using it . When I go riding I want to ride not sit on the side of the road working on it . At that point how many spares are you going to carry with you of different parts that don't last .
 
Thanks, appreciate the feedback and confirmation. I am always a little cautions dealing with an on-line retailer the first time.

Thanks
Terry
 
got the new OEM pump installed Saturday, fit and works perfectly.

I think I need to do the shotgun on my carbs though. My carbs have never been apart, how difficult is it to remove that brass plug over the idle mixture screw? I don't want to mess anything up. is there a trick to doing it right?
 
manual rubber pump can be a spare pump. (?????)
riding and pumping is better than pushing bike. I pushed Kawasaki about 1 mile recently.
 
..how difficult is it to remove that brass plug over the idle mixture screw? I don't want to mess anything up. is there a trick to doing it right?

The plugs are about 1/4" thick so wrap a rubber band around a smallish drill just deeper than this. Once you have drilled the hole screw in a self tapper and pull.

Note all previous advice about the need for a good fitting screwdriver and before removing the idle mixture screws, screw them in until they just bottom out and note how many turns that took. You can then return them to the factory setting when re-assembling.

I would also re-insert the plugs when finished, a bit of silicon sealer over the drilled holes, to keep moisture out.
 
how difficult is it to remove that brass plug over the idle mixture screw? I don't want to mess anything up. is there a trick to doing it right?

What makes you think you need to set the idle mixture screw?
 
it's getting to the point that it doesn't want to idle or run clean without the choke partially open. I have cleaned as much as I can without removing the carbs or cleaning the idle circuit. thought I would try that before removing the carbs and shipping to one of the experts.
 
From my experience, and what many other have posted, it is the idle jet getting blocked, no surprise as the hole through it is tiny, that causes idling problems.

I'd recommend that you clean the carbs out before messing with the mixture, I mean it's a pretty good bet they knew what they were doing at the factory. .

The hardest part is getting the carbs off the engine and then undoing the bolts holding them to the brackets.

But if you are competent with a screw driver and spanner (US = wrench), it's not that hard a task.

..... but if you insist, then go carefully as people have made a real mess of getting the mixture screw out, you would need a good fitting screw driver, use penetrating fluid and even some heat to avoid chewing up the screw head.
 
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In looking at the "shotgun" cleaning instructions, I was thinking that the idle mixture screw needed to come out in order to clean the jets. is that not correct?
 
idle jet getting blocked,
THIS!!!!
Cleaned carbs of about 40 bikes, I guess 100 carbs or so. (lots of people here cleaned more). Two bikes had perfectly clean carbs except idle jets...
💪
 
In looking at the "shotgun" cleaning instructions, I was thinking that the idle mixture screw needed to come out in order to clean the jets. is that not correct?
Yes but... I would always try running some carb cleaner in the fuel first before attempting anything else. I've used Forte products (available in the US?) with some success.
If the tamper proof plugs are still in place then you are less likely to have seized mixture screws but the advice on a good fitting screwdriver still stands. A sharp tap on the end will often persuade recalcitrant screws to turn.
Should you feel the need to split the carbs note that a JIS screwdriver will make chewing up the heads less likely.
 

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