1" Schedule 80 PVC (Comment from 88VMX12 {Scooter} - I found that sch 80 PVC is just a bit too big in diameter to fit in my forks. I have an 1988 and used an electrical conduit PVC pipe)
You have to subtract the length of the lowering blocks from your preload
spacers.
PCW lowering blocks are hard plastic pipe.
Dimensions are:
30mm......long
32mm......diameter
3mm......wall thickness
26mm......internal diameter
1) Remove the tubes from the yokes.
2) Undo the damper rod, but DONT full remove - 10mm Hex key in the bottom of the fork leg, you may need an impact wrench and/or a damper rod tool.
3) Remove top of fork leg (watch the spring), drain oil, invert leg remove spacer tube, washers and spring. Note the order they come out in.
4) Remove damper rod bolt and damper rod, you may need to shake a bit (the fork leg not you) or push a thin rod through the hole at the bottom of the leg where the hex bolt went. The damper rod and a small (about 1") spring should come out.
5) Cut a piece off the spacer tube (that you removed in step 3). The length should be equal to the amount you would like to lower the front end. A plumbing tube cutter is the cheapest and neatest tool for this. Make sure you cut exactly the same amount from the spacer tube in each fork leg. You now have two short spacers (about 1" or
less) and the two original spacers are about an inch or so shorter (obviously the exact amount depends on the amount you want to lower)
6) Thread new short spacer onto damper rod then add rebound spring. Reinstall in fork leg.
7) Reassemble, in reverse order to step 3. Using the now shorter spacers.
It is also recommended to use heavier oil (20w) and no air with this set up.
The lowering blocks prevent the fork slider or outer tube from dropping that extra distance (length of the lowering block) at the bottom of it's stroke.
You have to subtract the length of the lowering blocks from your preload
spacers.
PCW lowering blocks are hard plastic pipe.
Dimensions are:
30mm......long
32mm......diameter
3mm......wall thickness
26mm......internal diameter
1) Remove the tubes from the yokes.
2) Undo the damper rod, but DONT full remove - 10mm Hex key in the bottom of the fork leg, you may need an impact wrench and/or a damper rod tool.
3) Remove top of fork leg (watch the spring), drain oil, invert leg remove spacer tube, washers and spring. Note the order they come out in.
4) Remove damper rod bolt and damper rod, you may need to shake a bit (the fork leg not you) or push a thin rod through the hole at the bottom of the leg where the hex bolt went. The damper rod and a small (about 1") spring should come out.
5) Cut a piece off the spacer tube (that you removed in step 3). The length should be equal to the amount you would like to lower the front end. A plumbing tube cutter is the cheapest and neatest tool for this. Make sure you cut exactly the same amount from the spacer tube in each fork leg. You now have two short spacers (about 1" or
less) and the two original spacers are about an inch or so shorter (obviously the exact amount depends on the amount you want to lower)
6) Thread new short spacer onto damper rod then add rebound spring. Reinstall in fork leg.
7) Reassemble, in reverse order to step 3. Using the now shorter spacers.
It is also recommended to use heavier oil (20w) and no air with this set up.
The lowering blocks prevent the fork slider or outer tube from dropping that extra distance (length of the lowering block) at the bottom of it's stroke.
