Question on aluminum corrosion and one other

[Throttle]

Just picked up my first Vmax (06) last Saturday and a few things I noticed that I wanted to ask about.

First, and I searched the forum for a good little bit but could not find a thread directly related to this (though I am sure there is one so sorry if it has been answered a million times) but I was wondering what I could do to clean up a bit of corrosion on my engine. (see pic below) I googled it as well and seems like I might not like the answer. Also what can I do to prevent further corrosion. Unfortunately I am about two blocks from the ocean but fortunately I will be moving back to Oklahoma in a few weeks. Bike lived in SF area before me.

Second questions. I noticed a plastic square piece on the radiator below the reflector was loose, and when I checked the other side it was missing. Seems to be a cheap little "looker" piece but now that I noticed it missing I want to get a new one. Anyone know where to find it and the best way to reattach? It seems like it was glued on from the factory. (see pic below for where it should be)

Thanks for the help!

 

[naughtyG]

That corrosion you see is most unfortunately the clear coat on the polished metal peeling off. There's not much you can do short of either completely removing it, then painting over, or polishing and keeping polished, or find that thread here named 'bling for your ding a ling' and spend a hundred bucks or making all those engine bits real pretty!

Oh and for the bit of rad ask CaptainKyle, he's parting out an '05 and I'm sure he's got that bit for ya.

 

[PATMAX]

Yep, common questions and the battles we all face. Freshening the motor takes a few paths. First it has to be clean clean clean and anyone that tells me they spent an hour just cleaning the motor, I'll tell them that is a start. It will take a day or two to clean a motor and ready for touch up. Lightly sand the corroded spots and prep and paint accordingly. To keep it nice, some guys are using silicone sprays, WD-40 and some other treatments to keep it nice.

 

[one2dmax]

By the way, It isn't a part we've advertised much but we have stainless inserts for the radiator to replace the crappy aluminum junk inserts that come as the OEM.

Sean

 

[gamorg02]

yea luckily my corrosion bits were removable (valve covers, clutch cover etc) and were stripped and powdercoated.

 

[Rollie]

By the way, It isn't a part we've advertised much but we have stainless inserts for the radiator to replace the crappy aluminum junk inserts that come as the OEM.

Sean

+ 1 on the stainless steel replacement. Stronger / won't bend or dent easily and polishable .

 

[MaxMidnight]

If you are an all weather rider then flat back the local area and re-cote - I suspect you will have to do again periodically.

However, if you tend to only ride when it is dry the I would flat back using wet & dry and then polish.

If the corrosion is confined to the top surface of the metal then use 800 followed by 1200 then 1500.
If you don't already have one invest in a good (rubber) rubbing block - they aren't that expensive.

Use plenty of water and rub in strait lines. Continue until you have removed the corrosion and lacquer.

Move on to the finer paper but this time try to rub at 90 degrees to the coarser rubbing. At this stage you are trying to remove the scratch marks from the coarse paper.
Same again for the fine paper, again at 90 degrees to the previous rubbing.

When done you should have a dull lustre and no deep scratches.

To complete the job use (say) Solvol and complete the job with a fine polish such as Belgum Alu (do you get that over there?)

A couple of polishes a year will keep it looking absolutely spiffing!

BUT......the downside is that it will now show up the rest of your laquered aluminium.

Paint stripper removes the lacquer and if un-blemished it only needs a polish to pass muster.

 

[Throttle]

Thanks for the tips all! And Sean, I will probably be contacting you before too long.