R1 Voltage Regulator / Rectifier Upgrade

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www.eastern beaver.com Has wire kits to do this up grade they have waterproof plugins that go into r/r.
Or you can make your own. Hope this helps
 
Ok found plugins for this up grade on ebay. the seller is jasonmotoeletrix for 22.95 free shipping. The part number for internet search is 3p250wp-qlw
this plug will plug into FH012 the ebay listing is for 2 plugs they are water proof.
 
I'm new to the V Max, but my old Suzuki had RR issues also. Through research and experience of members on that form I found the Compufire Series type R/R. Even a Mos Fet RR sheds unused energy back through the stator. The series style actually opens the circuit, and saves the charging system components. The Compufire is an expensive part but a permanent solution, I have also heard that Shindengen SH775 is a series type R/R now easily available which is comparable design-wise and a good bit cheaper.

Is the 89' V Max Stator a 3 phase (3 wire) unit which wires directly to the RR?
 
I'm new to the V Max, but my old Suzuki had RR issues also. Through research and experience of members on that form I found the Compufire Series type R/R. Even a Mos Fet RR sheds unused energy back through the stator. The series style actually opens the circuit, and saves the charging system components. The Compufire is an expensive part but a permanent solution, I have also heard that Shindengen SH775 is a series type R/R now easily available which is comparable design-wise and a good bit cheaper.

Is the 89' V Max Stator a 3 phase (3 wire) unit which wires directly to the RR?

Yes, there are three wires that come out of the stator and go directly to the R/R, in any order. While it is true that the FH series R/R are shunt style mosfet R/R, they don't get that hot if they have some air flow. The FH010 also works. The difference between different Shindengen models is the amp output. Some do 30 amp, some do 50, etc. There isn't alot of info on this so I can tell you which do what. I went with the FH010 because it is used on the ZX14 which is a large metric cruiser. I wouldn't worry about trying to get a R/R with the maximum amp output because you are limited by the stator, fuses, wiring, etc.
 
Thanks for the reply. The uploaded wiring diagram is an excellent tool also.
 
I'd like to find a high amp R/R for the Roadstar.. Driving lights, GPS and other goodies sometimes drop the charge voltage a bit.
 
I went through few used RR just would not work out for me, 1 was putting out over 17 volts it idle. I went back to the vmax stock RR 2005 model, And connected to my stator with female spade. Add few extra wires. I have 4 extra lights on the front koso tech/rpm and the stock temp rpm gauges working together "O" to motion flowing rear running light right behind the seat. voltage at idle 14.2 to 14.6. I have usb charger on the bike for my cell to.

Good right up your rr install....
 

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I'd like to find a high amp R/R for the Roadstar.. Driving lights, GPS and other goodies sometimes drop the charge voltage a bit.

The Compufire is 70A capable, pretty sure thats more than any bike could need. Its a heavy duty constructed unit. Question becomes will the stator on it keep up?
 
Thanks to Rawarrior for the diagram,I was unsure about the 09 R1 regulator i bought as it had a 5th connector and was unsure which terminals to put red/black.Off to do this now and get out for a ride as it is a nice sunny September morning and it's not often we get them in the UK.

Update. Well it's charging now so that's one problem sorted but now i find that when it is hot the starter motor is playing up.Ordered a kit for it and i will make it earth better with wire and a screw of sorts when it arrives.
 
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Getting ready to do the r/r mod with the fh-020aa r/r. I have seen plenty of install how to's and can get that far no problem. What I am curious about is what parts of the original harness will be safe to remove from my stock '92 when I wire the positive (w/ inline fuse) and negative feeds from the r/r straight to the battery terminals. Has a step by step been put together showing what can be cut/removed when the mod is installed?

I'm still waiting for the snow to melt here. :snow:
 
Getting ready to do the r/r mod with the fh-020aa r/r. I have seen plenty of install how to's and can get that far no problem. What I am curious about is what parts of the original harness will be safe to remove from my stock '92 when I wire the positive (w/ inline fuse) and negative feeds from the r/r straight to the battery terminals. Has a step by step been put together showing what can be cut/removed when the mod is installed?

I'm still waiting for the snow to melt here. :snow:


No idea regarding your actual question here. I simply bought the new style, finned Vmax R/R. It was plug n play to the OEM one, and all I had to do was route the extra ground wire up to the battery after switching out the two mounting bolts for two slightly longer ones. I've never looked back. So simple, even this cave man did it.
 
I'm going to end up wiring the positive (w/ inline fuse) and negative leads from the r/r straight to the battery terminals. This way I will be avoiding the plug and play of my original harness configuration. When I do a direct connect, like this mosfet r/r mod, what parts of the original 'plug and play' harness will become obsolete. I am not using anything that leads to or from my old r/r. I'm putting in a new stator and fh 020aa r/r. Installing all new wires with butt connectors and soldering.
I am curious as to what I can clean up out of the original harness once I have connected the new r/r directly to the battery terminals. Will my original fuse thats next to the positive battery terminal still be needed when I put on the new inline fuse? etc..
 
I've been trying to figure out locations for a R1 R/R. What's everyone think of mounting it to the front of the battery box? Other than that, under the passenger seat or moving the vboost controller are about it.

Modded the battery box for the battery upgrade already. There is definitely potential in moving the vboost controller. I'm just waiting on better weather to be able to crawl around and check for other mounting possibilities.
 
Just done the R1 regulater swap,,, and it seems to have a marked improvement,, starts like a fuel injected bike, well so far lol
 
Just done the R1 regulater swap,,, and it seems to have a marked improvement,, starts like a fuel injected bike, well so far lol



Is that the shindengen 775?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I did do it as of about two weeks ago now with the Sh775 , 300 amp stator from Exactrep and a cool little L.E.D. charge meter. My multimeter reading reads 14.4-3-4 while idling at about 800 rpm.
 

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