Racetech springs

[Traumahawk]

I have a question for the people that have used Racetech springs before.

From what Ive read before, a lot of people have suggested that if you go off of Racetechs recommendations, then the spring rate will be too harsh, and that you need to order 1 step down.

I wonder if the people that have these recommendations, if they had set the SAG on their bike? The reason why I ask, is that I currently have progressive springs.....and most people that i know of dont worry about setting the SAG.....and they are fine. For me, the ride was very harsh. I did set the SAG, and had to cut an additional 15 mm off the spacer, to get to a SAG reading of 30 mm.

So, if the people of this forum, that bought racetechs, and thought they were too harsh, but didnt set the SAG.......I will probably go with the racetech recommendations, but if they DID set the SAG, and it was still to harsh (I will be keeping the RICORS that I have BTW), then I will go the 1 step down, that a lot of people recommend.

Thanks

 

[maleko89]

I have Racetech and did not set the sag. It is a bit harsh.

Mark

 

[davesax36]

I have Racetech and did not set the sag. It is a bit harsh.

Mark

I went one step down. Then I got fatter. Now it seems a bit squishy. Never seemed harsh. No work on sag for me, either.

Pretty sure I was recommended .92 and went with .90

 

[maleko89]

I believe mine are .95.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Traumahawk]

Here is what is recommended for me off the spring calculator, and I am 225.

FRONT FORK SPRINGS
Recommended Fork Spring Rate: 0.992 kg/mm (use closest available)
Stock Fork Spring Rate: 0.382 kg/mm (stock)

So I could go 1.0......or down to .95

I just went to the progressive website and here's the front springs that I am running.

.71/1.16 kg/mm

so, thats why the racetechs are such a big difference.

Of course like I said, I'm still gonna use the RICORS, so will use 5 wt oil.

 

[davesax36]

Don't compare progressive to rt, though, because they are wound differently. I'd go with the .95 and use the ricors or go ahead and get the gold valves.

 

[Traumahawk]

Don't compare progressive to rt, though, because they are wound differently. I'd go with the .95 and use the ricors or go ahead and get the gold valves.

I just found the rates on the progressives interesting. On other websites (usually detractors of progressives) they say that the springs arent progressive, that they are in fact a dual rate spring......so I found it interesting that on Progressives website, the springs for the Vmax, they listed them at .71/1.16 kg/mm.

The Ricors do the same thing as the Gold valves. Using the stock fluid weight, you have to drill out the holes in the dampers.....but for the Ricors, you just have to go with 5 wt fluid.

Its interesting, I had gotten an email from a friend, and he recommended the .90...because even the .95 was a bit harsh. He brought up an interesting point that we dont always ride on the smoothest roads. These are not track bikes.

LOL.....decisions....decisions. My main problem is that I want to do it once.......and I might have to change out springs a couple of times, to get it perfect for me.....kinda like jetting.

 

[Fire-medic]

As a suggestion, go one step down as you said, you could always throw a set of Sean's adjustable downtube caps on if you needed to firm them up a bit.

I am >230 lbs outfitted to ride AGATT and I have the 1.0 Racetech & RICOR setup. The table called for me to go with the 1.0. It's OK for me but I abhor a 'squishy' front end. For me, firm is better than bottoming out frequently. I have a 'spirited' style of riding, but not wilding.

 

[Nubicon]

Racetech springs are not progressive (so there's no easy comparison to Progressive's progressive rate springs). And they are harsh during street rides when they aren't being pushed hard.

 

[MaxMidnight]

...but I abhor a 'squishy' front end.

That would depend on who's body it's on?????

Racetech springs are not progressive (so there's no easy comparison to Progressive's progressive rate springs). And they are harsh during street rides when they aren't being pushed hard.

I don't agree with Mr Nubicon's assertions.

When I first fitted my Racetech springs and emulators the ride was fine on smooth roads but harsh on poor roads with big sudden bumps sending painful shocks through the bars.

On checking the static sag there was far too much. Once set at around 30 mm (don't recall the exact value) it transformed the ride.
I no longer fear the risk of fractured wrists and whilst the ride is still firm the front end had always felt planted.
It's capabilities of going around corners far exceed mine!

I haven't tried the next spring rate down so can't comment on how much difference that would make. However, if the Racetech calculator puts you mid way between springs then my inclination would be to go for the lower value and sacrifice a little handling for comfort.

For those with Emulators (don't know about the Ricors) you also have the option of playing with the damping rates and there is also the option of changing the weight of oil as well (MM helpful hint: When you have the forks stripped take the time to drill and tap a hole to take a drain bolt which will make future changes of oil easier. See post #4 & 8 here.)

It's a shame that whilst folk spend much time worrying about what jets and needle setting to use the subject of static sag is rarely mentioned let alone adjusted.

The benefits in comfort and improved handling are really worth the effort.

 

[Traumahawk]

Thanks for all the info, and opinions as well. I will go with the .95's, and see what happens.

I will report back, good, bad, or indifferent.

Thanks again.

 

[Traumahawk]

Well I went with the 1.0s. Ive finding out that with the racetechs.....preload is VERY specific, and probably where a lot of the harshness comes from.

With preload at 25 mm (which is what racetech suggests) it gave me a sag of 38. For street bikes they usually recommend 30-35 mm, but in the racetech bible racetech stresses that those are strictly guidelines and that set the sag that feels best, and works for the bike. Like Barry had said, some of the roads that we ride on, arent the best in the world.....so It seems that more sag will allow the suspension to travel more.

So I took the bike out and went over some HARSH city streets. Going over some pavement that had buckled that would send the bike OVER the bump.

The bike would still go over the bump, enough to where you could feel the front tire lose contact just for a hundredth of a second........but its no longer harsh.....or jarring.

So with the racetechs, follow the directions, set the preload where it should be. Set the fluid level where it should be (they have a different requirement than stock), and then check the sag.

MaxMidnight was correct. Lots of people will spend hrs tuning on the carbs.......but spend no time tuning on the suspension, and then complain that the Vmax doesnt handle properly. Hell one person that I know of said that a Vmax handles like an elephant (this is a person that likes Vmax's......but then does nothing but talk about what they arent.)

Part of the answer that I was looking for also came from Firemedic. He liked his.....and I know by his very nature, he is meticulous.

This is now a bike that handles VERY well for what it is....and I would say would surprise a LOT of people. Now the bike feels more planted and stable.

I am VERY pleased.