Radiator fan motor short circuit

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maximus speedicus

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Recently my max had been blowing fuses on the radiator fan circuit. I installed my own cheap hardware toggle switch to bypass the thermostat so I could kick on the fan whenever I felt like it. That was my first suspect. After going through the circuit, everything seemed to have solid connections. Popped in a new fuse and spark, immediately blew. So I broke out the multi meter and started testing for shorts starting at the positive terminal of the thermostat. Long story short ish, I found the short to be somewhere in the radiator fan motor itself. Closed circuit from the blue positive wire of the fan motor connector to the black ground wire of the fan motor connector. Has anyone else ran into this type of problem before? Anyone have a spare motor?
 
I never had this problem with my own Max, but we (Speedcostsmoney and me) experience it on the ``1986 fazer project`` wich use the same type of fan i think.

I removed from rad braket, open it carefuly, clean up, lub it, back in place, it works since 4 years now.

If it can help
 
Recently my max had been blowing fuses on the radiator fan circuit. I installed my own cheap hardware toggle switch to bypass the thermostat so I could kick on the fan whenever I felt like it. That was my first suspect. After going through the circuit, everything seemed to have solid connections. Popped in a new fuse and spark, immediately blew. So I broke out the multi meter and started testing for shorts starting at the positive terminal of the thermostat. Long story short ish, I found the short to be somewhere in the radiator fan motor itself. Closed circuit from the blue positive wire of the fan motor connector to the black ground wire of the fan motor connector. Has anyone else ran into this type of problem before? Anyone have a spare motor?

The motor is built into the back of the fan. $9.99
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-1985...FAN-/400701488440?hash=item5d4bab7d38&vxp=mtr
 
Did you take apart the plug with the blue and black wires in it that's on the left side of the motor feeding the fan motor? I had one of the wires and its pin actually back out a bit, causing all sorts of stupid things to happen.
 
Did you take apart the plug with the blue and black wires in it that's on the left side of the motor feeding the fan motor? I had one of the wires and its pin actually back out a bit, causing all sorts of stupid things to happen.

I didn't take it apart but I did disconnect it from the rest of the harness and connected the multimeter to the blue + and the black -. That's how I figured the short was in the motor. I already ordered a used fan/motor but I will take the connectors out of the plug to see if I can salvage a spare.
 
I took apart the plug to reveal the leads and there was no change. tested the resistance from each lead to the frame and there was no short. only found the short when connected to the two leads. on a disappointing note, the replacement motor I ordered off of ebay has the same issue. windings are shorted out.
 
You should have a connection between windings, slight resistance. Not sure what the the ohms would be on this motor. I f the motors are the same I would be looking at the temp sending unit on the right side below radiator cap. You should be able to put it in boiling water and see it is closed or open. It should open which would send the power to the fan motor. Maybe also checking the voltage to the sending unit as well as checking the wire from unit to fan. I know only too well how electrical is a pain in the ass. Fought with my turn signal circuit for over a month. Bought new/ used lights. Found a melted wire connector the ended up having to clean all the connections in and on my instrument panel... Hopefully you/ we find you issue.
 
Build a set of wire leads with an in line fuse and connect your new/used fan direct to a battery and test its operation. This will answer a lot of questions with 5 minutes of work.
 
Build a set of wire leads with an in line fuse and connect your new/used fan direct to a battery and test its operation. This will answer a lot of questions with 5 minutes of work.

+1:eusa_dance:
I keep an old battery in my shop, for "workbench" testing, together with a variety of switches and jumper wires, a few with battery post clip-ons. Much easier to test new circuits and old components this way, prior to installing on the bike.
Cheers!
 

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