Repair plan and time(so far, I didn't ride my gorgeous bike :) yet)

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DreamV4

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R means before first ride

1. Install COP resistors instead of bulbs 30 min R
Fix gauges/lights (only neutral bulb works). 1 h. diagnosing
3.fix br. master cylinder glass 30 min R
check/fix rear caliper 30 min(?) R
5.replace rear br. pads
replace tires/bearings 1 day
7.fork seals (replace/check fluid to ride 30 min. R) 3 hours
recover seat 1 hour
remove bugs from headlight 30 min. R
10. fix turn signals/taillight. 30 min. diagnosing R
11. Install 10A ign. fuse instead of temporary 7.5 or attach spare one. 5 min. R
12.Install all covers, repair threads 30 min R
wash/detail. 1 hour
13.clean cool tank/fuel pump install 1 hour
15. replace throttle cables (ordered)
16. rail replacement
17 air filter replace
 
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I would look to make the engine operable first, everything else can wait. Just get it running, not even under its own power, underway, just starting and running through the rev band. Ensure that it starts when warm OK. No overheating. When it starts, let it sit at idle for about 10 minutes, plenty of time to come-to operating temperature, and to see the thermostat operated properly. See that it revs easily, no stumbles, popping-back through the carbs or the exhaust.

Then, do whatever is necessary to ensure reliable, safe operation of the brakes and the hydraulic clutch. Seeing the botched work the prior owner did, I'd be totally-disassembling the calipers, entirely flushing-out the hydraulic hoses and fittings, disassembly and inspection of the two master cylinders and the clutch slave cyl, rebuild kits as needed; and then a gentile ride, no 'let's test the VBoost!' Your tires are probably old, ozone-damaged, 'baldies' with cords showing. Par for the course of the prior owner. Now is the time to check for the #1 reason VMaxes are abandoned/parted-out: a bad second gear. Consider yourself lucky if you pass this, because without a fully-operable gearbox, everything-else is secondary.

With a sense that your engine is capable of reliable operation, and that your brakes and clutch are OK, now you can undertake all the other things you want to do. Priorities.

I forgot to mention checking the throttle cables for proper routing (see 8-25; page 396 of 405pp in the .pdf), fraying, kinks in the helix (the outer tubing), and sufficient slack. A too-tight set of cables detrimentally-affects idle and synchronization and safe return to idle, w/no 'hang-ups.' Cable routing can be found in the rear of the service manual. Given the other stupidity the prior owner 'mechanic' perpetrated upon this poor bike, I'd be spending time to check this before any street time of any-sort. Also as a measure of last-resort, ensure that your KILL SWITCH is operable, every-time.
VMX12- Service-Manual.pdf (vmoa.net)
 
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Thanks!
You reminded about cable replacement work.(ordered long ones)
 
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