Replacing the Stator on my 95max

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kshort1995vmax

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Getting ready to replace the Stator on my 1995 VMax. Wanting to get an estimated time frame it should take to replace it. Will change oil then as well. any replies very much appreciated. New to posting on VMax Forum. New member
 
With all the parts/gasket ready to go and no unforeseen setbacks and a beer in one hand.......prob 2 hours-ish..............
 
Thanks, I appreciate the responses. Doesn't seem like too big a job. But then again, I always seem to look like I've removed a motor when checking the oil sometimes.
No worries, it's all a learning experience. Kshort
 
I posted a step by step guide in the How To section of the forum here. I was replacing the pickup coils but the stator is right there. You will probably need an impact screwdriver to get the screws out. Make sure you have the stator cover on something soft so it doesn't get damaged or breaks when you are removing the screws holding the stator.
 
Here a few pics when I replace mine. My old stator wiring dot 3 brake fluid had spell down on it from clutch work over time from the seller before I bought it. You can see what happens when bleeding the clutch if you spell dot 3 brake fluid on the stator wiring. I replace the pick coil to at the same time.
 

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Wrench time is a VERY subjective thing.
I'm not sure how some guys do things so fast. It would probably take me about an hour just to scrape the gasket material off the case and both engine covers!

Then I'd probably spend another hour cleaning everything.

Actually swapping the stator would only take a few minutes.

Then I'd spend 15 minutes cleaning the wires that go thru the grommet to make sure there is no oil on them because I would not want it to leak.

It would take a few minutes to bolt back together and then add the new oil filter and oil.

All in all, it would probably be a full evening job for me down in the garage fiddling around.
 
Wrench time is a VERY subjective thing.
I'm not sure how some guys do things so fast. It would probably take me about an hour just to scrape the gasket material off the case and both engine covers!

Then I'd probably spend another hour cleaning everything.

Actually swapping the stator would only take a few minutes.

Then I'd spend 15 minutes cleaning the wires that go thru the grommet to make sure there is no oil on them because I would not want it to leak.

It would take a few minutes to bolt back together and then add the new oil filter and oil.

All in all, it would probably be a full evening job for me down in the garage fiddling around.

Agree completely - just haven't had the courage to admit it, till now!
Could be that I'm retired, and have all the time in the world to fiddle, and be as fussy as I want to be.......OR......
I retired from a GOVERNMENT job. Previous to that, I had six or seven jobs in private industry. I learned that government clocks only run half as fast as private ones, and that's on a busy(??) :rofl_200:day.
Cheers!
 
Take your time, do it right.. The screws holding the stator in place can be really difficult to loosen, an impact driver will be your best friend if this is the case.. I'd consider a bit of threadlock on those screws... You do NOT want them loosening. A bit of silicone seal on the grommet where the 3 wires exit the case would help prevent any oil seepage there. If I was doing the job to my bike, I would take a really close look at the 3 wire plug that connects the stator to the voltage regulator. If you see ANY sign of corrosion or melting here, I'd hard wire (solder) these 3 wires, and remove this potentially troublesome connector. Corrosion causes heat, heat melts the connector. If you aren't a good solderer, use Posi Lock connectors, they are as good, and removeable. Be sure to insulate whatever you do with heat shrink, if you remove the 3 wire connector. The 3 wires have no specific wiring position, any stator wire can go to any regulator wire. If you really want to do the most efficient job possible, run the red output wire from the regulator directly to battery positive terminal, and the black to negative, being sure to get good connections where you have to extend these wires. Get a couple of those little wire grommets to attach the wires to battery. What it all boils down to is be sure you have the best possible connections everywhere in the system. Check the MOSFET voltage regulator info here, that really is the way to go if you need to upgrade or change a voltage regulator down the road...
 

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