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Right blinkers not working but left are

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del3000

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I have a problem with the right blinkers not working but the left ones are. It is a 2004 and blinkers are factory. I have checked the bulbs and they are both good. The right front driving light also works okay. What could it be?:ummm:
 

ninjaneer

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Look in the headlight and under the passenger seat. Since it is an entire side not working, I'm thinking the headlight would be the first place to look

Regards from my Taptalking Hercules Android
 

Fire-medic

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I have a problem with the right blinkers not working but the left ones are. It is a 2004 and blinkers are factory. I have checked the bulbs and they are both good. The right front driving light also works okay. What could it be?:ummm:
Sounds like a bad ground to me, or as mentioned, a poor connection. Don't just 'eyeball' the connections, break them apart & sandpaper them. Some dielectric grease doesn't hurt either. An easy way to check for the problem is to switch the hot leads for the L & R signals wherever the double connectors are for the grounds, right next to that should be the individual hot leads for ea. side. Make sure you are switching the turn signal hot leads side for side & see if the inoperable side now lights, while the previously-operating side does not. Check the plug into the flasher unit to make sure the leads in are all seated on their spades & that the ground or hot lead isn't loose at the back of the connector, & not seated on its terminal.

All connections should be shiny-bright, tight (squeeze the female w/pliers if needed), and not displaying broken strands at the connectors. I have found that w/time, the crimp of the connector is a likely place for the wire to fatigue and break strands, or sever completely. It can fool you because depending on how it's crimped, the insulation may prevent you from seeing the wire is broken. The only way to know for sure in that case is to do a continuity test using your multimeter on its buzz-for-continuity function, or no reading if using a digital display. If you are experienced, you can tell the difference between the stiffness of a connector still intact, and the "limp-noodle looseness" of a bullet connector which while having an intact jacket of insulation, will no-longer have the conductor attached to the terminal. Use the continuity tester.
 

del3000

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Okay as noted by Fire-Medic I switched the hot wires for each side behind the headlight and under the passenger seat. The previously inop lights now work and the previously working ones do not. Is it possible the switch on the left handle bar is bad?:bang head:
 

Redbone

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Look in the headlight and under the passenger seat. Since it is an entire side not working, I'm thinking the headlight would be the first place to look

Regards from my Taptalking Hercules Android
+1, make sure all connections are solid. My headlight enclosure is a little crowded with two relays stuffed in there and I used to have issues with turn signals there until I put on new bullet connectors. Don't forget to use dielectric grease!
 

del3000

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I also switched the double ground connectors at the front and back with no difference so that eliminates the bad ground right? is there a separate relay or relay connector for the left and right blinkers? where is the relay?
 

del3000

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Found a corroded button contact in the switch. Cleaned and greased the contant and voila. Thanx ninjaneer.:clapping:
you say you switched the left wires with the right's and now the other side works, but the previously working side no longer works? try popping the switch pod open and and clean it out. couldn't hurt. here's a write up

How To: Recondition the Clutch-side Switch Pod
 

RaWarrior

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And a happy ending once again thanks to VMF...

wonder if I should try replacing some of those bullet connectors....the left side on mine works perfectly, will blink steadily forever even with the engine off. The right side usually blinks OK for a few seconds, then starts getting screwy, blinking super fast, pausing for a bit, pretty random flashing.
 

Fire-medic

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I bet if you cut the wire you'll find only a few strands connected on one of the leads & most of them broken. See if the resistance you get when you bend the wires behind the bullets is the same, if one is "loose" & able to be more-easily bent, then that's the one w/broken strands. Remember the system is designed to have a certain load on it, if that load isn't there, it will not perform correctly.

I spent a couple of hours this morning installing a class III hitch on my son's M-B ML500. He got an open fisherman and I volunteered to install the hitch & wire it so I get invited to go fishing & diving. Biscayne Bay and the Atlantic Ocean are just minutes away since we're in Coral Gables. The wiring checked out OK after the install, so we're ready to go. No 'rapid flashing,' lack of flashing, or melted wire looms, always a good sign.:rofl_200:
 

Fire-medic

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It's easier to go in the bay (Biscayne Bay) from where we are, but if you want to, beyond Elliott Key is the ocean. He just got the boat & tow vehicle, both used, but well-maintained, both from relatives. i like to snorkel & spearfish more than fish, but since I don't own a boat, unless I go w/friends or go off the beach, which I have done, I don't go as-often as I once did. We live < 1 mi. from the ocean. I have two ramps which enter the Intracoastal area closer than that, so options to get in the water are there.
 

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