runnin rough as, help anyone?

[huskyman510]

Hi all vmaxers, fairly new to the vmax I have a gen 1 88mod. When I first got bike crackled and popped for first 10-15min of riding then all ok, did this every time I went for a ride.
Did the shotgun, back together ran worse. Decided to pull out all carbs and service, cleaned up good, did notice a small tear in the diaphram of 2 carbs,dabbed a tiny ammount of good quality silicone to repair(dont know whether this was a good idea or not??) noticed also 1 fuel screw corrided on needle tip. Re-used anyway. Adjusted floats and backed out screws 2.5 times. Back together now even worse, will start as if its on 2 cyl, wont idle and doesnt seem to want to rev at all.
Checked spark all good, plugs very black though. When I pulled off left rear cyl plug cap bike would stop, I did all other one at a time and it seem to make no difference.

Any suggestion on what exactly I should do from here? spent many hours trying to get everything right and each time it gets worse. What should I use as a check list from start to finish?

The guy I bought her off is a good mate and he had no issues for many years. Please help

 

[maleko89]

I would take a good look at your boots and verify good spark to each cylinder. New plugs are probably needed for sure since it sounds like they are fouled? New wires may be in order too. Did you sync the carbs after removal?

 

[naughtyG]

That's exactly what I was gonna ask - did you sync carbs? It'll run like shit if not.

Diaphragms need to be in good shape, best to replace a ripped or torn one. Not sure what you meant by the screw on needle tip?

Also as Mark said maybe get some fresh spark plugs, then check you have good spark on all four.

Which Perth are you in - Scotland or WA?

 

[huskyman510]

Cheers guys I`ll throw some fresh plugs in check the boots and see what happens,
in regards to the sync I havent done, purely because I dont have the correct tool to do it, might have to grab one as well sounds important being a max owner.
Do you have to get original leads or is there after market ones you can purchase which are better??
Perth WA Aus
Was almost ready to wheel her in the shed and save up for some UFO products, the vgas looks sooo tempting

 

[naughtyG]

Cheers guys I`ll throw some fresh plugs in check the boots and see what happens,
in regards to the sync I havent done, purely because I dont have the correct tool to do it, might have to grab one as well sounds important being a max owner.
Do you have to get original leads or is there after market ones you can purchase which are better??
Perth WA Aus
Was almost ready to wheel her in the shed and save up for some UFO products, the vgas looks sooo tempting

I'll be back home (Freo) in a couple weeks' time and I have a sync tool. Also Bazwell is in Perth, and I bet he's got one too. Sync's a 5min job, so anytime you wanna do it I'm happy to help.

Plug leads are just standard HT ones - I will be getting rid of mine also in a couple of weeks' time as I'm upgrading to COPs. You're welcome to the ones from my '00 - I know they work fine.

 

[sdt354]

Cheers guys I`ll throw some fresh plugs in check the boots and see what happens,
in regards to the sync I havent done, purely because I dont have the correct tool to do it, might have to grab one as well sounds important being a max owner.
Do you have to get original leads or is there after market ones you can purchase which are better??
Perth WA Aus
Was almost ready to wheel her in the shed and save up for some UFO products, the vgas looks sooo tempting

+1 to all the above. I'd save up for new diaphrams $100 average for just the rubbers if your on a budget like me, much more for OEM slides. And, explore different options, read up on carb upgrqades, pro and con, after she's running well. Contact Sean Morley for parts and honest advise. You'll be glad you did. Being close to a sync tool and NaughtyG is a big help. Look into the C.O.P. upgrade threads, and the new owners write up Ryan (Rawarrior) did such a good job on. Most of your questions, at first, are answered there. The search tool is very usefull for almost anything you need. Welcome to the forum.
Steve-o

 

[huskyman510]

Thanks again, I purchased new diaphrams last night off ebay bout $100 bucks for 4 as well as new plugs. Pretty sure my leads are fine but I`ll double check, how can you tell if they are getting a weak spark? I know there sparking but how strong I dont know.
Thanks for the offer naughty G thats awesome might have to take up your offer if I get her running good enough for a trip done to freo.
I have read alot of threads and posts on here but to get through them all takes a while, great site and great people on here.

I am fairly mechanicly minded but a lot of the time I just get confused when somethings seem simple and they turn out wrong, had a hell of a time with my clutch....bleeding it, re-building slave cyl then trying to get pressure back up was a nightmare only to find my clutch started slipping 20km later, new friction plates and it was slipping again, so bought a whole new set of friction and steel plates plus did the double d which seemed ok for the short ride I went on but was slowly starting to engage later and later on the lever the closer I got home, got home undid bleed screw and it had built up so much pressure it squirted out into my bottle like a tap, not sure whether this is suposed to happen but its back to the normal engaging spot now until I get her running and take another ride.

Sorry for dribblin on but I tell other people my issues and there eyes roll back in there head and fall asleep as they dont seem to care.

I`ll keep studying all the pros and cons and one day hopefully I`ll be giving great advice on here
Marcus

 

[sdt354]

I have a cheap spark checker in my emergency tool bag Marcus. You can make them or buy them for $5 at H.F. They work well. You can see a nice strong blue spark, or orange weaker spark with the tool. The COP's upgrade is one of the best things I've done. It's all there in one piece ready to change in a minute or so, compared to OEM front coil torture. I now carry one stick in my tool bag on trips. Prolly never need it.
There are some video's around on changing the diaphrams out. I did it without taking the slides apart. Others have had luck taking them apart and glueing them back together. They also can break easy taking them apart. Gentle is the way to go.
A mighty Vac is very helpfull for brake and clutch line bleeding. They also can be had cheap at H.F. and have a brass body unlike the plastic MORE expensive type?
Steve-o

 

[PDWeyand]

Sorry for dribblin on but I tell other people my issues and there eyes roll back in there head and fall asleep as they dont seem to care.

I`ll keep studying all the pros and cons and one day hopefully I`ll be giving great advice on here
Marcus

As you learn you find things will be easier and as other people come to the forums you will see that if they are lost they ask for help and the people here will probably smile, laugh and giggle as they remember their learning curbs. The best thing about this forum is that you are given a place to start from without getting looked down upon and after you learn how well the search works you will most everything about the Max has been talked about and someone has run into the same issues. So have no fear you are following in footsteps of many. I hope you find your gremlins and work them out of your max, once you do you will love the Max even more. Good luck and happy Gremlin hunting. It is always GREMLIN SEASON :rofl_200:

 

[naughtyG]

Let's hope those diaphragms will be alright - usually for carb parts it's best to stay with OEM quality. How are your old ones? Can you see holes or tears in them?

The clutch bleeding on max is a PITA, I found out the hard way too.. Not straightforward like doing brakes, that's for sure. As far as slipping is concerned though, what oil do you use? Max does not like 'energy-efficient' oils with anti friction additives, that's usually the first reason for slipping clutches. A lot of people (inc me) use standard Shell Rotella-T oil, 15W40 or (for hot weather which Perth qualifies for) 20W50. Works a treat.

 

[huskyman510]

Thanks too all,everyone has been a great help.
Put new diaphrams in, changed plugs. Started, after a bit of coughing on start up all sounded sweet.

Time to take her for a ride to check out if its all good, havent done the carb sync yet still contemplating on buying one or go see naughty g??if hes home.

Fingers crossed all my gremlins are gone
:clapping:

 

[bazwell]

Thanks again, I purchased new diaphrams last night off ebay bout $100 bucks for 4 as well as new plugs. Pretty sure my leads are fine but I`ll double check, how can you tell if they are getting a weak spark? I know there sparking but how strong I dont know.
Thanks for the offer naughty G thats awesome might have to take up your offer if I get her running good enough for a trip done to freo.
I have read alot of threads and posts on here but to get through them all takes a while, great site and great people on here.

I am fairly mechanicly minded but a lot of the time I just get confused when somethings seem simple and they turn out wrong, had a hell of a time with my clutch....bleeding it, re-building slave cyl then trying to get pressure back up was a nightmare only to find my clutch started slipping 20km later, new friction plates and it was slipping again, so bought a whole new set of friction and steel plates plus did the double d which seemed ok for the short ride I went on but was slowly starting to engage later and later on the lever the closer I got home, got home undid bleed screw and it had built up so much pressure it squirted out into my bottle like a tap, not sure whether this is suposed to happen but its back to the normal engaging spot now until I get her running and take another ride.

Sorry for dribblin on but I tell other people my issues and there eyes roll back in there head and fall asleep as they dont seem to care.

I`ll keep studying all the pros and cons and one day hopefully I`ll be giving great advice on here
Marcus

Maaaaate!

I'm near Warwick, and I've seen another bloke or 2 on here from Perth, and NaughtyG in Freo.

What you described up there ^ with the clutch is a common problem.
If you take the lid off the master cylinder there is what could look like 2 blind holes. (From memory) the one closest to the clutch hose is not a blind hole, and when it gets blocked it doesn't allow fluid to return to the reservoir. So the clutch pumps up.

If it squirted, it probably cleared the shit, but stick something down the hole (carefully coz thats right near the seal area) and clear it out.

With your carbs, as soon as you touch anything, they will go out of balance! You upset the status, now you gotta get them right.

 

[huskyman510]

Maaaate theres more vmaxers in Perth than I relised, we should all get together and go for a vmax cruise!

Test ride......Id say running close to 90% full power (unsure what full power is though as shes never run perfect yet) just a tiny bit sluggish from 1500-4000rpm, clutch did the same thing again,engaged just off the bar then after 30min ride only just engages and starts to slip.

Put back on original clutch/res assembly (was using one off my vf1000 project bike) had a lot of trouble again bleeding and getting all the air out....was very patient and after much opening and closing everything trying all the various methods finnally got it. another very quick spin and I think Ive got it? I have a feeling it may do the same thing again though, after miles of reading posts I may have to get new copper washers and a braided line..........any other advice on the clutch would be fantastic even though I have many many hours of knowledge on this clutch now its always good to hear other peoples experience.

Naughty G...I had a chuckle today reading one of your old post back in 08 as you were going through everything I have been through with this bloody clutch, you must feel like an expert now!

Marcus

 

[naughtyG]

Ha! Bloody clutch bleeding eh.. Yea I had a hard time with it first time I did it, and was very glad for the reverse-bleed advice I got here that put it right.

Defo up for a catch up and a WA Max ride sometime in the future. Right now I'm still waiting for those arseholes on the East Coast who've had my bike over a month now to put it through compliance (came from the US) and keep saying to me 'in the next couple of weeks' every time I talk to them.. And then it still needs trucking over here, and I'll need to get it rego'd too. May need advice on that as it'll be my first bike in Australia.

Also was gonna say, if anyone local wants their carbs sync'd I have the tool and the knowledge and happy to do it anytime if needed! Just come down to Freo, takes 10mns tops and always runs better afterward No charge either, although always open to donations.