Rusty Tank... V-Max is NOW a project

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Nick.

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Sorry for posting so much guys but I'm new to yamaha and V-max as a whole but I got my little pen light to work today and boom, rust in the tank. What's the best way to go about this? Take it out, drain it, swish acetone, put some nails and meuric acid in there and slosh it around, drain, clean, and kream? Or should I just get a new tank all together?
 
Personally I'd get another tank because every little microscopic bit of dirt in the carbs causes huge headaches later on. :bang head: You can try getting the tank creamed too as some have had success with that too.
 
I would only use the tank liner as a LAST resort. I would either replace the tank as Buster mentioned or get yourself some Sodium Carbonate, a tub of water, and a battery charger...

http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tools/Electrolysis.htm

This is a GREAT way to remove rust and leaves the good metal alone. But after you have done this, your take is now unprotected, so keep it full of gas or the rust will most likely come back.​
 
fuck man its an '07 with 1200 miles. i'd snag that in a hearbeat, hopefully thats ur bid.
 
My Max was stored on lake front property...the tank was RUINED! I used this...cheap and easy.Kream is a bull shit solution that takes too long with too many steps,the only reason EVERYONE uses it is because its easy to find.This stuff is better,believe me. Ive used it to treat 3 bikes,one was so rusty we had to chisel the gas cap and sending unit out because they were rusted into the tank.This stuff saved them with NO problems.Its been around for a long time,all the old school hot rodders use it.

http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/

A pint will do it,I skipped the trouble of pretreating chemicals.I shook some BB gun ammo around in the tank mixed with paint remover,blasted it out with an air compressor and coated it with this stuff.No issues AT ALL.Just throwin an alternative out there for you if you dont want to buy a new tank.:confused2:
 
So what all goes into getting the tank out? It looks like a pain in the butt, like I have to take the whole ass of the bike off to get to it, back tire, fender, and mud flap, and hidden bolts. Also, what comes out of the tank, sending unit thing and thats it? I would buy a new tank but I'm a broke ass college kid who fell into a good deal on some classic muscle
 
So what all goes into getting the tank out? It looks like a pain in the butt, like I have to take the whole ass of the bike off to get to it, back tire, fender, and mud flap, and hidden bolts. Also, what comes out of the tank, sending unit thing and thats it? I would buy a new tank but I'm a broke ass college kid who fell into a good deal on some classic muscle

I've got a pictorial of removing the gas tank when I removed my EFI and installed it on Jim's bike. I'll see if I can find it and post it.
 
Naughty G: This stuff works NO DOUBTS! It coats the whole inside of the tank and makes it look brand new.Its amazing stuff,If you really dont know if you trust it the best thing to do is buy a pint and poor some over a rusty piece of metal.When you see the results it will make you believe.One pint will coat a V-Max tank 2-3 times.
I cant say its the best in the world but its better in MY OPINION.
 
So what all goes into getting the tank out? It looks like a pain in the butt, like I have to take the whole ass of the bike off to get to it, back tire, fender, and mud flap, and hidden bolts. Also, what comes out of the tank, sending unit thing and thats it? I would buy a new tank but I'm a broke ass college kid who fell into a good deal on some classic muscle
The tank is really not that bad to get out you do have to take all that stuff off to make it easy & have room but its easy it took me about 30-35 min to have my last one out.
 
I will have a tank for sale shortly - unfortunately it also has a little rust in it but I will treat it before I sell it. Prolly with Kreem as I still have some from my last tank job, but I may try that other stuff (POR-15) to see how it goes.

As Kyle said, it ain't that hard to remove the tank, but yes a buncha things need to come off, especially that little subframe on the left hand side that supports the pillion pegs. Then it slides out pretty easily. The only thing inside the tank is the fuel gauge sender.

The pictures are for your reference - this is the tank I'm going to be using as a replacement, shown before I cleaned it up and resprayed it.
 

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So what all goes into getting the tank out? It looks like a pain in the butt, like I have to take the whole ass of the bike off to get to it, back tire, fender, and mud flap, and hidden bolts. Also, what comes out of the tank, sending unit thing and thats it? I would buy a new tank but I'm a broke ass college kid who fell into a good deal on some classic muscle

I'd appreciate that too - thanks Buster

Tank removal guide is now in the How To section http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=9885

I missed a few steps so any one with pictures of the steps I missed, please post them so I can update it, especially if you have a stock VMax (what's that??? :biglaugh:).
 
I have always used Kreem as well, but I do know that POR15 is the bomb for sealing up bodywork/rust. I never knew it was fuel resistant!!
 
naughtyG you wont be disappointed with POR-15 stuff. haven't used the tank sealer if thats what they have but their products are awesome no complaints there.
 
awesome! Thanks for that write up. It doesn't look that bad, maybe 30 min if I take my time. The fuel lines are on the top of the thing right? Looks like all I'll have to do is take off the 180 degree hose and it should be fine... right?

I may have to get my homework done now so I can get it out and drain the sum bitch... and see really how bad it is on the inside.

I know it's rusty and all but would that electrolysis process work just fine for cleaning it all out? After that would I just spray out th inside of the tank, let it dry, then dump a bunch of that por15 or kream into it and swish it around?
 
awesome! Thanks for that write up. It doesn't look that bad, maybe 30 min if I take my time. The fuel lines are on the top of the thing right? Looks like all I'll have to do is take off the 180 degree hose and it should be fine... right?

There are two hoses on top - one goes to the fuel filter, the other is a vent hose.

I may have to get my homework done now so I can get it out and drain the sum bitch... and see really how bad it is on the inside.
2 ways to drain:
1 - open the drain plug at the bottom of tank
2 - disconnect the fuel line going to the carbs, redirect it into a container, then use the fuel pump to empty the tank. Remember to switch to reserve to get it all out.

I know it's rusty and all but would that electrolysis process work just fine for cleaning it all out? After that would I just spray out th inside of the tank, let it dry, then dump a bunch of that por15 or kream into it and swish it around?
I tried electrolysis and while it seemed to work, it didn't really fix my problem.
The Kreem kit comes with etching acid which is supposed to seal the rust. Then it has a cleaner, and a water remover. Finally, you put the actual coating in and swish it around, letting it set in various position before removing the excess.

I haven't tried the POR-15 stuff, but it sounds easier if all you gotta do is pour it in and let it set..
 
is this the stuff your talking about?

If all goes well I could have this darn thing road worth within a month! Gotta budget the fix, got lots of bills.

Also. How the heck and I going to get to that one screw in in the mud flap thats like RIGHT infront of the tire? I'm not sure if I want to get the rear wheel off because... it worry's me lol.
 
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