Seals only or full rebuid?

[usfwood]

I am getting ready to replace the seals on my 1999 Max. I was wondering if any of you who had gone beyond the seals and replaced the bushings and internal seals have noticed any performance increases. Would you consider the full rebuild worth it?

Also, I cannot seem to find a bushing/rebuild kit, so it seems I am destined to order by the part for the internal orings and bushings. If anyone knows of a rebuild kit that would fit, I would be indebted.

Thanks in advance.
Darin

 

[one2dmax]

Yamaha doesn't offer a full rebuild "kit". You have to buy it ala-cart. Most of the time you can simply replace the seals (OEM only) and then reuse the other parts. If it ran dry for an extended period of time you may need to replace the slider bushings.

 

[usfwood]

Yamaha doesn't offer a full rebuild "kit". You have to buy it ala-cart. Most of the time you can simply replace the seals (OEM only) and then reuse the other parts. If it ran dry for an extended period of time you may need to replace the slider bushings.

I didn't see any kits. I was starting to fall for the hype of increased performance on some generic kit claims.

I also saw a lot of traffic on replacing the stock springs, and other fork "upgrades".

I guess for now, I will just order the stock oil and dust seals.

Thanks for the input.

 

[MaxMidnight]

There are two points to consider.

i) Ifthe seals are leaking then, stating the bleedin' obvious, you need to replace them. If there is any radial play between the fork tubes and sliders then the bushes are suspect.
ii) If you want to improve the performance of the forks then you will need to replace the springs, add additional damping control and set the static sag.

If you are intending to keep the bike for any time then i) is essential and I would also argue so is ii).

 

[one2dmax]

New springs are a must compared to stock. The progressive are typically the overall favorite (I do sell those and seals if needed)

 

[usfwood]

If you are intending to keep the bike for any time then i) is essential and I would also argue so is ii).

I intend to keep it for a while. I love the bike. I have:
-done a complete rebuild of the carbs and rejet and needle with Dynajet
-Upgraded the ignition to Dynamax
-Sealed and modified the gas tank
-Repaired numerous smaller items
-Replaced the missing parts where I can.

It already has aftermarket wheels and rear shocks.
And a few other things I cannot remember.

Shocks are next on the list.

I will look into the springs, and also make sure that the forks on the bike are already stock. They were moved up about 1.5" in the triple tree already to lower the front.

Regards,

 

[Fire-medic]

I intend to keep it for a while. I love the bike. I have:
-done a complete rebuild of the carbs and rejet and needle with Dynajet
-Upgraded the ignition to Dynamax
-Sealed and modified the gas tank
-Repaired numerous smaller items
-Replaced the missing parts where I can.

It already has aftermarket wheels and rear shocks.
And a few other things I cannot remember.

Shocks are next on the list.

I will look into the springs, and also make sure that the forks on the bike are already stock. They were moved up about 1.5" in the triple tree already to lower the front.

Regards,

A rule of thumb is to make the same height change at both ends. Unless you're 5'7" or less, I don't recommend going that much of a drop. Race-Tech Cartridge Emulators or RICOR (same idea) drop-ins for the front end, make a big difference when paired with better springs. Race-Tech springs are designed for your weight and riding style, I like them more-than the Progressive, though I have both.

Are you really-short? Your cornering clearance is better at a taller height (top of downtubes at top of top triple tree). If you don't need the height reduction, you might think about returning to a stock height, especially if you're buying $$$ new rear shocks. OEM rear shocks are 13" o.c.

You might want to search (advanced search) for info on Race-Tech Cartridge Emulators or RICOR's, and the Progressive Suspension springs or the Race-Tech fork springs. The Race-Tech site has a handy list of suspension components for service of the Gen 1 forks.

 

[totalcomfort]

Not much harder to do the whole rebuild, working on my 07 now. If a seal leaks on any of my bikes I change bushings at the same time.

 

[usfwood]

A rule of thumb is to make the same height change at both ends. Unless you're 5'7" or less, I don't recommend going that much of a drop. Race-Tech Cartridge Emulators or RICOR (same idea) drop-ins for the front end, make a big difference when paired with better springs. Race-Tech springs are designed for your weight and riding style, I like them more-than the Progressive, though I have both.

Are you really-short? Your cornering clearance is better at a taller height (top of downtubes at top of top triple tree). If you don't need the height reduction, you might think about returning to a stock height, especially if you're buying $$$ new rear shocks. OEM rear shocks are 13" o.c.

You might want to search (advanced search) for info on Race-Tech Cartridge Emulators or RICOR's, and the Progressive Suspension springs or the Race-Tech fork springs. The Race-Tech site has a handy list of suspension components for service of the Gen 1 forks.

So, I will try to raise the fork height back to the stock height. I am not small, 6-2, 250.
I looked at the Race-Tech site vs the progressive springs. There is quite a difference in cost, but if the ride is that noticeable of a difference, then I don't mind paying the extra.
Some folks have stated they did not like the emulators over the progressives. You obviously have used both, so for you it would be a direct comparison.

Did you use both on the VMax? or on different bikes?

Not much harder to do the whole rebuild, working on my 07 now. If a seal leaks on any of my bikes I change bushings at the same time.

I agree, it is alot easier to replace the bushings at the same time. But, if they are not worn, or showing any play, is it worth it. Also, I was just hoping for a kit instead of ordering each bushing individually.

Again, thanks for all your input.

BTW, I did notice when I added 15 Lb. to the Schrader valve on one side, the forks did rise up. So, I am assuming they are stock springs.

 

[rolling18]

New springs are a must compared to stock. The progressive are typically the overall favorite (I do sell those and seals if needed)

What does a set of those (progressives / seals ) cost?
I couldnt find them on your sites..

 

[Fire-medic]

It's up to you about the springs, I like the Race Tech and either of the damper packages, I've only purchased the RICOR, but they do the same thing, they remove the damper rods from controlling that, and there is a considerable improvement in function. Remember springs only provide cushioning from bumps, it's the damping function that makes the forks not just go, "boingggg-boinggg" up and down, diminishing amplitude oscillations. I'm sure you've seen an undamped rear end of a car just acting like a pogo-stick, up-and-down, up-and-down, because the shocks are worn-out. No damping.

 

[one2dmax]

What does a set of those (progressives / seals ) cost?
I couldnt find them on your sites..

Email me at [email protected]
$80 springs only
$100 with lowering kit