Seeking Vmax Guru in Chicago

[Kirkury]

Hello Vmaxers! so after recovering from a 2" rotator cuff detachment repair, it turns out I CAN still ride a max! So snagged my 3rd Max.

I picked up a 2005 anniversary edition with less than 3k miles....well the previous owner F'd with the "tamper proof" a/f screws and may have damaged the carb. No matter what I do I cant get it to idle (pea shooter / shotgun). It is fine when riding, but wont idle w/o the choke lever tweaked to an infinite degree. I don't want to screw around antymore. This is my 3rd. I'm not looking to go nuts and mod like on my others. I just want the bike/carbs running perfect. MAYBE a stage 1 or 4... with slipons... THATS IT.

so who is the guru in Chicago that can square away the new old stock max?!?!

It is gorgeous!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks!

Kirkury

 

[Kirkury]

I am actually in Aurora. (if that matters)

 

[m-cman]

Your problem is common, especially if sitting for some time or using gas with ethanol. The jets/orifices in the jet block are clogged. The peashooter and shotgun won't fix that. You need to remove the carbs, remove the jet blocks and clean everything completely. There are multiple stickies on this subject. Not hard to do, just have to be careful and do one carb at a time. First time that happened to me my Max wouldn't run under 3k rpm. Had to keep revved up to drive. I used welding tip cleaners (Home Depot) to clean the jets. May need to get new gaskets and rubber plugs for the jet block.

 

[sdt354]

+1, add sync to the list and your good to go. I've used guitar wire to clean clogged circuits before, but the ultrasonic cleaners are worth buying. You'll find other uses for it too. Not a guru or in Chicago, but carb kits require a full exhaust system to be useful. A stock bike can run very well. One step down on the mains is beneficial, usually.
Steve-o

 

[KJShover]

+1

A "B" string makes for a fine cleaning tool.


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[Fire-medic]

Welcome-back to a great ride. Watch-out for the Monkey!:biglaugh:

If you use a welding tip cleaning set, be careful about using the knurled part of the tip/wire. You don't want to remove brass, just the blockage. A good $3 investment for carb work. Buy your parts before you start taking things apart.

Forget the Stage 1 or Stage 3. Search for (in the threads) Dynojet Stage 7 or Morley's Muscle jet kit. As said, a full exhaust is what you want. Between those two items, and w/a good install & tune, your bike will feel like a 'whole-nother animal!'

You can expect to have to outlay $1000+ even used to get there.

My advice to any new owner is that getting a replacement rear wheel in 17" or 18" and buying a set of radials will take-care of all-sorts of issues, and make your bike much-more fun to ride, w/confidence. Another close-to $1K outlay. But your bike, in a back-to-back comparison w/a stocker, will show you the benefits of those two mods. I'd say, like firing a .38 Special vs. a .44, that dramatic a difference.

Also, junk that stock headlight an get something-else. I recommend a 7" round replacement, again, search the threads, it's a popular mod, and doesn't take much time or $ to do. The nighttime results will make you glad you did. You won't feel like you're out-driving your headlight's output by 70 mph.

Here are some 'incentive' pics to get you going. unk: