Shotgun Method and Air Pressure questions.

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vmaxls

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Thanks in advance. After I receive my CarbTune real soon, I will be also be performing the method in the link below to hopefully cure my Max, but what can I use for the '100+ pounds of air pressure with a good tip' mentioned in the method??

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm


Will a can of Computer Air Duster like the one shown below provide sufficient force? I also own one of those air compressors that you can hook up to your cars cigarette lighter jack, but that probably won't work.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006I58S/103-4950760-4501406?v=glance&n=172282

Any suggestions, something I could use at home/garage?
 
Get a air compressor. I got a 200 psi compressor at Sears on sale. You'll have to buy the accessories separately, that will include the hose and rubber tips. Compressed air from a can isn't strong enough.
 
Okay, bought the air compressor, was sale on Target, 135psi, should be enough hopefully! It had the hose and that's it...what kind of tips should I look for, went to Home Depot and too many available. Any links??

I have not dismantled the carbs yet and thought it would be better the buy the tips before doing so. So just need some info regarrding tip sizes, types etc...

Thanks.
 
I like to use the blow nozzles with the tapered rubber end so you can get a good seal.135 psi is too much also.60-70 psi should be plenty.Make sure you give the carb cleaner a little time to do its job before blowing it out.
 
shawn kloker said:
I like to use the blow nozzles with the tapered rubber end so you can get a good seal.135 psi is too much also.60-70 psi should be plenty.Make sure you give the carb cleaner a little time to do its job before blowing it out.

+1 on the lower psi. Especially if you have a Stage 7 kit. First time I tried it at 135 and blew out an air bleed restrictor! Never did find that sucker. :surprise:
Backed off to 70 pounds and had no more problems. I got 2 more restrictors from Dynojet, one to replace the one that went AWOL and one more for 'just in case it happens again'!
 
just wondering...I don't have any Stage 7 kits or anything of the sort, everythings OEM, do I have to lookout for anything to blow out other than the ones mentioned in the instructions?? Doing this for the first time and just want to be carefult, I guess will start out by using a lower PSI, hope that air compressor is adjustable or something, still in the box...

Found the rubber tapered tips mentioned, thanks for the advise!
 
Shouldn't be any other issues. After removing the recommended bits, soak, blow, and go! **Safety Note** Wear protecive glasses while performing the shotgun. Carb cleaner in the eye hurts like a biotch!!!
After buttoning everything back up, it would be a good time to sync the carbs too if you have gauges. It's very easy to do on the Max. The factory manual gives great step-by-step instructions.
Good luck!
 
ok thanks. Yeah, I bought the CarbTuner and used it once and noticed a difference already but problem still exists wherein sometimes bike runs great and sometimes it feels like it running on only half power, cylinders? The exhaust sounds different, loss of power etc. etc.

So hopefully the Shotgun might cure it, cos bike has alwasy been in great condition and just been sitting instead of beinng used very much...
 
Have you inspected the diaphrams for cracks or tears?Hold them up to a light and see if any light comes through them.Air leaks are a very bad culprit on vmax's too.The airbox boots become rock hard and do not seal right.the boots under the carbs and the vboost boots crack also.Mine were all replaced then last week I found a vboost boot had blown.Air leaks make tuning correctly impossible.
 
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I 2nd that, Check all 12 boots and 4 o-rings. 4 airbox boots, 4 carb to manifold boots and 4 vboost boots. The 4 o-rings are on the bottom of the manifold and seal it against the head. Hopefully, my boots arrive this week.
 
ok thanks, will do. Did you order from Gary/University Motors by any chance? Do you have the part numbers for these boots? I can always look them up in the microfiche I guess..

Also the process of replacing all the boots, I assume includes dismantling the carbs completely?? Or can I do them while performing the shotgun/remove some parts here/there??
 
Got the part # in case anyone is interested from Univ. Motors...

1FK-14453-00-00 $8.30 AIR BOX BOOT
1FK-13597-00-00 $8.05 CARB TO MANIFOLD
93210-45578-00 $3.48 O-RING
1FK-13595-01-00 $4.31 V-BOOST BOOTS
 
Another tip...

Carb cleaner will destroy some plastics almost instantly..My instrument panel still bears the scars of my unthinking carelessness....Don't let this tragedy happen to you!! Cover up everything and cover the carbs with rags as much as possible as well..

Also..If you have to remove the carbs they don't have to be separated from each other or disassembled...They stay "racked" together.....your synch will usually prettty well stay put although I would for sure check afterwards...
 
Question about the kind of compressors you guys use. I assume you need to be able to store some volume of air in order to get a blow tip working. So are you buying compressors with storage tanks? I know some of the other compressors, the cheap ones only provide a chug-chug of air which i couldnt imagine blowing out a carb very well. I'm also considering using one of those external tanks you fill up.
 
Real compressor with real storage/surge tank. A portable air tank you could fill up at a gas station would be just fine as well.

Good luck.
 

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