Should I have a cotter pin here?

[Stalzie]

Hi everyone,

I was looking around my bike and noticed an open hole near the rear shock mount. Should I have a cotter pin in the hole slot shown in the attached picture?

Thank you for your help.

 

[desert_max]

No, but you should have one on the nut on the other side of the axle.

 

[schudaddie]

Hi everyone,

I was looking around my bike and noticed an open hole near the rear shock mount. Should I have a cotter pin in the hole slot shown in the attached picture?

Thank you for your help.

I use that hole when removing the axle. insert a screwdriver and work it back and forth while pulling.
later, bill

 

[[email protected]]

No, but you should have one on the nut on the other side of the axle.

+1. No cotter pin goes there

Late model gen 1 has a self locking nut, early model has a castellated nut and cotter pin

 

[Fire-medic]

+1. No cotter pin goes there

Late model gen 1 has a self locking nut, early model has a castellated nut and cotter pin

The axle is shorter for the self-locking nut models, longer for the castellated nut using a cotter pin. I use a hitch pin, reusable.

 

[Stalzie]

Thank you for your replies!

 

[desert_max]

I use a hitch pin, reusable.

Ha! Glad I’m not the only one. My son made fun of me for this… my 78 GL1000.

 

[Koos]

I have one, and a self locker.

 

[Zeus36]

Hi everyone,

I was looking around my bike and noticed an open hole near the rear shock mount. Should I have a cotter pin in the hole slot shown in the attached picture?

Thank you for your help.

As others have posted, no cotter pin for that hollow end of the axle. I use those two holes when I remove the axle:
1. A long #2 Phillips round shaft screwdriver fits perfectly.
2. Slide the screwdriver through and you can rotate and pull the axle.

I did use one of the holes for safety wiring in a lifting spool. Once I got a lathe, I made my own and used a aircraft Ball-Lok quick release pit pin through both holes.