signal fuse

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Bill Kratzenberg

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Took a ride today and all of the sudden i lost my guages,
then it felt like i was running out of gas so i switched to reserve.

well i know i have a half tank of gas left but it ran fine on reserve.

so i found that i blew the signal fuse, changed it and 1 mile later it blew again.

So i guess my question is where should i start looking to fix this fuse problem, and what would that fuse have to do with the bike starving for gas?
 
Hey Bill,
I'd start with tracing each of the signal wires to see if there's a crack / worn area shorting to ground; looking inside the headlight assmbly and under the seat area first. Then expand the search from there to other wear / rub areas that the wire harness can occur. Loose wires & bad connections can cause this too. Hopefully it's not in any switch.
These electrical issues can be tough to find but be persistant ! Good Luck.
 
hey bill, what about those horn wires that you took off? are they hooked up again or maybe fell off?
 
hey bill, what about those horn wires that you took off? are they hooked up again or maybe fell off?

I left them unplugged till i change that leaking o ring.

just cant understand what the short has to do with the fuel issue?
 
Hey Bill,
I'd start with tracing each of the signal wires to see if there's a crack / worn area shorting to ground; looking inside the headlight assmbly and under the seat area first. Then expand the search from there to other wear / rub areas that the wire harness can occur. Loose wires & bad connections can cause this too. Hopefully it's not in any switch.
These electrical issues can be tough to find but be persistant ! Good Luck.

Ya Jeff im gonna have to look around at all those wires and connections,
Hopefully its something simple.
I really hate electrical problems!
 
Did the fuse blow while you were using the signal?

guess i cant say for sure Bob, when i looked down i didnt have guages. might have happened when i used the signal, and i didnt notice till afterwards :confused2:

just wondering if its the wires from my fuel pump?
trying to figure out the fuel problem. weird it happened together, must be related somehow huh?
 
Sure sounds related. I will see if I can trace the circuit on the yamaha service manual. Unless someone who knows for sure chimes in first!
 
I was just looking at the electrical schematic and the brown wire leading from signal fuse (10AMP) supplies power for the:

horn
oil light
neautral light
reserve switch
tach
temp gauge
fuel light
flasher relay
brake light

I'm no electrician but loss of power to the reserve switch would explain fuel starvation. And I would recheck the horn wires to make sure they haven't shorted out. Dingy has a simplified CAD drawing of the electrical system he sent me a while back and it makes the schematic much easier to read.
 
Had a similiar prob.recently.After tracing most wires(in headlight,under seat etc.),it turned out I had a bad rear brake light switch .When I hit the rear brake short in brake light switch would blow the fuse.Was a PITA to discover the prob.& had to order new switch from Yammi.
 
Had a similiar prob.recently.After tracing most wires(in headlight,under seat etc.),it turned out I had a bad rear brake light switch .When I hit the rear brake short in brake light switch would blow the fuse.Was a PITA to discover the prob.& had to order new switch from Yammi.

Had the same story some other time with some other bike.
Those swithces somethimes can be repaired which You may also give a try.
 
I was just looking at the electrical schematic and the brown wire leading from signal fuse (10AMP) supplies power for the:

horn

oil light
neautral light
reserve switch
tach
temp gauge
fuel light
flasher relay
brake light

I'm no electrician but loss of power to the reserve switch would explain fuel starvation. And I would recheck the horn wires to make sure they haven't shorted out. Dingy has a simplified CAD drawing of the electrical system he sent me a while back and it makes the schematic much easier to read.


Beg to differ, Mr. Alorio, but the Clymer manual schematic shows that the fuel pump system is powered up by the ignition switch fuse circuit.......
red/white wire from fuse to stop switch, red/white to reserve switch, red/green to relay, blue/black to pump.
Bill, as for the signal fuse blowing, you indicated that you had replaced it, but it again blew "a mile" later, which tells me the problem is probably not related to the continuous-drawing part of the circuit (tach, temp. gauge, and oil, fuel, neutral indicator lights), but is being caused by one of the momentary circuits -signals, horn, or brakes.
What you could do to narrow down the problem to one of these would be to replace the fuse, turn on the ignition and....
Sound the horn, continuously. If this doesn't blow the fuse....
Try both sides of the signals, leave them on for a few minutes, each side. If this doesn't blow the fuse....
Duct-tape or tie the front brake lever on for a time, see if this blows the fuse. If not, try the rear brake circuit by holding down on the pedal. If either test blows the fuse, keep in mind it may be one of the switches, or could be related to the wiring from the switches to the brake light itself.
Hope this helps!
 
Yes, I should have said fuel pump relay instead of reserve switch. It looks like the brown wire acts as maybe a trigger wire to make the relay energize if all is well with other components in circuit.
 
Beg to differ, Mr. Alorio, but the Clymer manual schematic shows that the fuel pump system is powered up by the ignition switch fuse circuit.......
red/white wire from fuse to stop switch, red/white to reserve switch, red/green to relay, blue/black to pump.
Bill, as for the signal fuse blowing, you indicated that you had replaced it, but it again blew "a mile" later, which tells me the problem is probably not related to the continuous-drawing part of the circuit (tach, temp. gauge, and oil, fuel, neutral indicator lights), but is being caused by one of the momentary circuits -signals, horn, or brakes.
What you could do to narrow down the problem to one of these would be to replace the fuse, turn on the ignition and....
Sound the horn, continuously. If this doesn't blow the fuse....
Try both sides of the signals, leave them on for a few minutes, each side. If this doesn't blow the fuse....
Duct-tape or tie the front brake lever on for a time, see if this blows the fuse. If not, try the rear brake circuit by holding down on the pedal. If either test blows the fuse, keep in mind it may be one of the switches, or could be related to the wiring from the switches to the brake light itself.
Hope this helps!

You are right Miles, my diagram had a mistake in it and had a revision that corrected it but somehow I did not update mine to the corrected version. Sorry for the bad info.
 
I left them unplugged till i change that leaking o ring.

just cant understand what the short has to do with the fuel issue?
i ON SOME JAPANESE THINGS , POWER IS SUPPLIED ALL OF THE TIME AND THE SWITCH WILL SUPPLY THE GROUND , SO JUST MAKE SURE THOSE HORN WIRES AREN'T TOUCHING ANYTHING !
 
i ON SOME JAPANESE THINGS POWER IS SUPPLIED ALL OF THE TIME AND THE SWITCH WILL SUPPLY THE GROUND , SO JUST MAKE SURE THOSE HORN WIRES AREN'T TOUCHING ANYTHING !

+1 or got a nick in the wire or pinched on any brackets so that they might short out.
 
i I NO SOME OF YOU GUYS ARE GOING TO " CRINGE " BUT I'VE BEEN A MECHANIC FOR OVER 30 YEARS , AND I'M THE GUY THAT SOMETIMES OTHER SHOPS HAVE BROUGHT THEIR CARS TO WHEN THEY CANT FIGURE SOMETHING OUT . . NOW DON'T GET ME WRONG , I DON'T NO EVERYTHING , NORE DO I CLAIM TO , BUT I HAVE DONE THIS FROM TIME TO TIME , DISCONNECT ONE OF THE BATTERY CABLES , JUMP THE FUSE WITH A COTTER PIN , HAVE YOUR WIFE - FRIENDS- NEIGHBORS-ECT; LOOK AT THE BIKE , TURN OFF ANYTHING IN YOUR GARAGE MAKING NOISE , RADIO - REFRIGERATOR , ECT; , HAVE EVERYONE KNEEL DOWN , NOW AT FIRST TOUCH THE BATTERY CABLE TO THE BATTERY JUST FOR A SECOND AND LISTEN FOR ANY NOISE AND LOOK REALLY CLOSE FOR ANY SMOKE , IF NOTHING SHOWS UP , HOLD IT ON THERE LONGER , IF STILL NOTHING , NOW TURN THE KEY ON AND DO IT , IF STILL NOTHING , PULL ON THE AREAS OF THE WIRINGHARNESS YOU CAN GET TO AND WIGGLE IT WHILE CONNECTING THE BATTERY . . ALSO MAKE SURE YOU EXPRESS TO ALL OF YOUR HELPERS THAT THIS IN VERY SERIOUS AND TO PAY ATTENTION , AS SOON AS SOMETHING IS SEEN TO YELL OUT AND POINT AT IT, DISCONNECT BATTERY , THIS MAY NEED TO BE DONE SEVERAL TIMES TO NARROW IT DOWN .
 
been done the same way on planes CR. some of the fuses are 15-30 bucks each :surprise:..... so poping them gets expensive, so you take them out and install the same amp re-set style breaker, and until that is worn out can keep resetting it and ya, listen, look smell all that funny stuff. kinda zen like moment, close your eyes and feel the electricity flow hahahahha, wait what are we talking about :ummm: oh ya :rofl_200:


plus your idea cr is a good way to scare the crap out of someone, get the room silent and smash a hammer on the ground and yell at the same time hahahah just for fun while everyone is all serious :rofl_200::rofl_200:, cant be all work all the time now can it
 
been done the same way on planes CR. some of the fuses are 15-30 bucks each :surprise:..... so poping them gets expensive, so you take them out and install the same amp re-set style breaker, and until that is worn out can keep resetting it and ya, listen, look smell all that funny stuff. kinda zen like moment, close your eyes and feel the electricity flow hahahahha, wait what are we talking about :ummm: oh ya :rofl_200:


plus your idea cr is a good way to scare the crap out of someone, get the room silent and smash a hammer on the ground and yell at the same time hahahah just for fun while everyone is all serious :rofl_200::rofl_200:, cant be all work all the time now can it
i YEAH , HAVE ONE OF YOUR FRIENDS IN ON IT AND LITE A PACK OF FIRECRACKERS ! . :rofl_200: . :rofl_200: . :rofl_200:
 
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