Simple Clutch/Brake Lever bearing Mod for $5

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Zeus36

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Got this off VmaxChat:

http://vmaxchat.yuku.com/topic/19703/Clutch-And-Front-Brake-Lever-Bearings#.VyK2NlbwHHZ


There was a mod here on the forum (it came from another forum) that used a needle bearing to be pressed into a modified clutch lever and machine the pivot pin bolt.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=2357&highlight=clutch+lever

I found a different method.

Here is what I followed:

Order one pack of 10 mini bearings from Ebay that are 10mm O.D. and 6mm I.D. (6x10x3MM BALL BEARING )

The bearings fit directly into the 10mm hole in the front brake lever but you need to drill the clutch lever out to 10mm to fit them.

I used five bearings stacked for the brake lever and three for the clutch lever

Replace the clutch lever pivot with a M6 Stainless Steel Allen Head bolt as the lever bolt. Reuse the brake lever bolt and nut.



This image is from Vmax Chat:
6b316c2d11ccb5dadb5f4be362faedf3ee9d2c2c.jpg


I bought the mini bearings for $5.11 with free shipping here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/181361979632?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


I'm looking into getting a couple of these flat thrust bearings to see if I can counterbore the levers to hold the bearings:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TC512-Th...hash=item5d328fb791:m:ml9ejGaXJGTCQbfgY2CpRoQ
 
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Similar to the mod we offer (which is $20 including postage)
 

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Sean,
With the kit that you offer, do you still need to drill out the clutch lever or is a 'plug 'n play' deal?

*I have adjustable brake and clutch levers on stock master cylinders.

Thanks,
Vinnie
 
Sean,
With the kit that you offer, do you still need to drill out the clutch lever or is a 'plug 'n play' deal?

*I have adjustable brake and clutch levers on stock master cylinders.

Thanks,
Vinnie

Yes, the lever has to be drilled larger.
 
I personally don't get the need for this Mod, please explain if I'm missing something.
I have adjustable levers (Thanks Eric) with the stock masters that work Great without any modification.
All I did was swap the bushing from the stock clutch lever to the adjustable clutch lever and they were a direct replacement.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251006820844?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=393546&postcount=30
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=365402&postcount=15
 
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The stock levers have a lot of up and down slop. My adjustable levers do not have this.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
 
...I personally don't get the need for this Mod, please explain if I'm missing something...

"This modification is to ease lever pull, increase smoothness and stop wear in the lever and pivot bolt." as stated in the original mod on this forum. It goes back to around November 2007 and generated a bit of interest. Member Turbovmax (Gary) started doing that more involved mod for other members.(needle bearing, bushing, machining the stock pivot, loctite, drilling the clutch lever to 12mm)

...All I did was swap the bushing from the stock clutch lever to the adjustable clutch lever...

Both my sets of stock clutch levers do not have bushings (unless you were referring to swapping the clutch pivot pin) The brake levers have a solid bushing.

Since there is no bushing on the clutch lever, the aluminum lever rotates on the steel pivot pin under torque from your hand and against resistance from the master cylinder. Aluminum rotating on steel with a side load is a bad thing and will wog out that lever creating slop.

Putting the bearings on the brake lever side as a replacement for the solid bushing does little, but since I had extra bearings, I utilized them.

What I may also do is find a way to put in flat, thin horizontal bearings to eliminate the aluminum on aluminum contact on the top and bottom of the lever flats against the clutch and brake lever housings. That means milling or counterboring the lever flats to fit the flat bearings.The upper and lower faces have a larger surface area than the pivots and contribute to wear which creates lever flop.

On my harley, the steel lever pivot pins ride in nylon bushings that sit in the lever pivot holes, so not much wear vertically, but lots of wear on the upper and lower lever faces. I had to use spring (wafer) washers to take out the flop. The drawback is going from aluminum on aluminum wear (factory) to aluminum on steel spring washers.
 
My clutch and brake levers had the wobbles, I think I first saw this set-up offered by Sean on his Facebook site. I looked for the bearing and shoulder bolt here and there, hardware, Grainger etc.,
turned out to be cheaper thru Sean. Drilled, reamed and a nice press fit later, I have tight, solid lever action on both sides. An especially effective mod for the DD clutch spring pressure.
 

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Thanks for the clarification Zeus.
My Stock clutch lever definitely did have a bushing (bearing) that went in the clutch lever where the shoulder bolt goes through
which is why I didn't see a real need for this mod.
From a post when I first installed my adjustable levers:
"They installed and worked perfectly in place of my stock levers on my stock masters.
As stated above I did have to use the bushing from my stock clutch lever on the new adjustable clutch lever though.
I know they don't come with instructions but that seemed like a no brainer to me, it wouldn't have even been close without that bushing.
But the Brake lever was a direct replacement without any changes or modification."
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=393546&postcount=30

My Stock levers did have a lot more up and down play/wiggle than my adjustable levers do though.
 
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