Solinoid rapid clicking but starter not turning over

[Shade]

Left the lights on at one point. Jumped it and drove it home. Hooked it up to the battery maintainer to charge the battery and now I can't get it to turn over. Battery is now charged, starter has been replaced, fuses checked. Solenoid rapid clicks when I try to start it but engine does not turn over. Anyone help? Please keep in mind I am not very good on what's what in an engine and don't have or rightly know how to use a multimeter.

 

[Radioguylogs]

Battery is the initial suspect.

Can you remove it and take it to an auto part store where they will load test for free?

 

[Parminio]

Left the lights on at one point. Jumped it and drove it home. Hooked it up to the battery maintainer to charge the battery and now I can't get it to turn over. Battery is now charged, starter has been replaced, fuses checked. Solenoid rapid clicks when I try to start it but engine does not turn over. Anyone help? Please keep in mind I am not very good on what's what in an engine and don't have or rightly know how to use a multimeter.

Dead battery.

When your battery is gone a typical charger, especially a tender, is going to indicate that it's charged even when it's dead as a doornail.

 

[Shade]

Was hoping to avoid removing the battery since there is so much on top of it. I'll give that a try tonight tho.

 

[V4max]

The battery is no where near as hard to remove as it looks

 

[Jerry Klay]

Had a battery on another bike do the exact same thing. Charger went into maintenance mode in 2 min. Battery at ~12.7-13.2 hit the button and nothing but clicks..

 

[Randy67500]

When you have the battery out, see if you can find an old piece if nylon strap like you'd find on a lunch bag to cut and fit under the battery. Run it up the sides leaving an inch or so sticking up above the top to grab it by so you can easily lift the battery out next time. Works like a charm!

 

[Jerry Klay]

That is such a good idea. My son's Kawasaki VerSys 650 battery is a total bitch to lift out.

 

[Fire-medic]

Randy67500 said:
"When you have the battery out, see if you can find an old piece if nylon strap like you'd find on a lunch bag to cut and fit under the battery. Run it up the sides leaving an inch or so sticking up above the top to grab it by so you can easily lift the battery out next time. Works like a charm!"

Yes that's a good tip, as these guys thought-so, long-ago. "What's old is new again." Good ideas bear repeating.

Mr. Midnight post #10: (37) yes,another charging topic... | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)

Toddo post #23: (37) Battery removal??? | Page 2 | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)

 

[desert_max]

Certainly not out of the realm of possibility that a bad connection to the battery or solenoid could be the problem. Either the positive or the ground side should be checked for secure, clean, uncorroded connection

 

[El Canadiense]

Certainly not out of the realm of possibility that a bad connection to the battery or solenoid could be the problem. Either the positive or the ground side should be checked for secure, clean, uncorroded connection

Always the 1st thing to check is the battery connections. They do get loose on a lot on most bikes. Have had this happen on a number of different bikes, my own and many others as well.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Assuming it was starting and running OK before you left the lights on then IMO a poor connection is unlikely to be the issue but worth checking.
What is the battery voltage once it has been disconnected from the charger for several hours (or after a couple of minutes with the lights on if you can't wait).

 

[Jerry Klay]

Voltage when trying to crank?
Headlight bright & horn & blinkers? All perform normal?

 

[Shade]

Sorry it took so long to get back to everyone. Took 3 weeks to get the battery in after ordering it. Poped the new battery in last night, hooked everything back up, then gave it a good charge and everything started up beautifully. Even started up quicker since I had put in a new 2 brush starter since I thought it was that.

 

[one2dmax]

I would suggest to also verify your charging system (make sure it's getting 13.5-14.5 voltage at the battery when running.

 

[Fire-medic]

Check for the 'crimp fix' and if your crimp is not soldered, do it. Easy to do, and it helps electrical function pretty-much across the board. You strip back the wire harness insulation wrap to expose it, do the soldering, and re-wrap it. No wire cutting or splicing, just a quick solder job. If you don't have a decent soldering iron, this is a good time to buy one. The Weller soldering guns are good for wires of this size gauge.



This shows the unwrapped insulation to expose the brass crimp you need to solder. Below, the crimp is soldered. Be sure to re-wrap the insulation, and use some electrician's tape of a good name brand (Scotch, GB) to secure it.

 

[Woody]

Check for the 'crimp fix' and if your crimp is not soldered, do it. Easy to do, and it helps electrical function pretty-much across the board. You strip back the wire harness insulation wrap to expose it, do the soldering, and re-wrap it. No wire cutting or splicing, just a quick solder job. If you don't have a decent soldering iron, this is a good time to buy one. The Weller soldering guns are good for wires of this size gauge.

View attachment 83665

This shows the unwrapped insulation to expose the brass crimp you need to solder. Below, the crimp is soldered. Be sure to re-wrap the insulation, and use some electrician's tape of a good name brand (Scotch, GB) to secure it.

View attachment 83664

Well worth doing. I haven't had any electrical issues.since I did the crimp fix.