Springtime Carb cleaning refresher

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dannymax

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Riding time is upon some of us and will be coming soon for the rest! It's the time for those issues caused by long term winter storage to start showing up.

Here's the link to the "Shotgun" method and a description of the "Peashooter" method. If your bike was running good when you put it away, but not so hot this spring, it's a good idea to try these things before going any further into the carbs.

They're great preventative measures also.

BG 44K is a nice product also for cleaning the entire system. I pour 1/3 can in each of my first three tankfuls of gas in the spring.

Shotgun: http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm

Peashooter:


Use the Pauls pea shooter method next time you start the bike. First find your self a simple syringe from a pet supply, pharmacy, even auto parts store. This will be needed to draw and squirt sea foam as explained in this tip. Remove filters or airbox, turn your pilot screws out 2 full turns. Choke on and start the bike, squirt sea foam in the choke vent at the top of carb, this will be the hole above the choke valve at the top of the carb. Do this while its running, no reving but keep it around 1500rpm.. now, once bike is warmed up turn choke off, squirt sea foam in the Pilot air jet #1.. this is the removeable jet at the top of the carburetor. Give it slight revs to allow the engines vacuum to draw the sea foam down the air circuit to clear it up.. if you should get sea foam into the carb throat dont worry about it, you will have some smoke out the exhaust is all but it wont hurt anything. Once done set the pilot screws back in 2 whole turn where you had them. You dont want to use compressed air to clear circuits. Compressed air can complicate things by forcing dirt into the circuit clogging things worse and once the enrichment ciruit is plugged you will have problems.
This is a pretty simple task but here are a couple pics if your in doubt.

pshoot1.jpg


Pilot screws may have brass factory plugs
To remove, use a small drill bit, wrap with tape to set depth ?", drill hole in center.
Screw a sheet metal screw into hole tight and wiggle plug out.
Use a rag to shield against brass fragments falling into
cylinder around plug area.
If pilot screws are binding (usually the right bank carbs will bind), STOP!
You do NOT want to strip these screws.
Get a can of PB-Blaster and a screw driver that fits tight in the screw slot with no play.
Remove another screw from one of the left bank carbs to size up a screw driver if needed.
Use BP-Blaster and forced air to loosen the screw, work screw back and forth.
Do not be in a hurry because these screw slots will strip out easy.
Use the PB-B when you feel resistance, take your time and know when to stop. Once the screw is loose, remove it, add some anit sieze to the threads and replace it back by reverse threading it till it seats,
once you feel a click proceed to screwing it in.
pshoot2.jpg
 
Just did both the peashooter and the shotgun at the same time on my Max hoping to solve the elusive highway speed hesitation my bike has. Initial test run it ran great, no sign of the "lag" in throttle response, but this was an intermittent problem so we'll have to see if it comes back.

What I did find was one carb(the right rear), when I drained the bowl it was about 50% water. All the other carbs were fine.....strange. I thought it felt like one cylinder was dropping when it "lagged", so maybe that was the issue there. I'd tried all sorts of additives in pursuit of this lag(including seafoam), and yet there's still a relative ton of water in the system.
 

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