Stalling with new clutch pack

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Eric Levitz

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Edit : !!!!
So here is somthing that narrows it down... mabe... I unplugged the clutch lever sensor. And the problem went away, no more stalling. I'd does idle a bit higher (1250) but it comes down at a stop... as soon as I plug the sensor back in, it does its stalling thing again. Stalls when coming to a stop with leaver pulled in.
I know this is an annoying post, but you guys are all I got. ( no mechanics that have seen this bike before in this country) .
Thank you all for your care and help .
Edit♤

Every other day with a problem.
:/
I put in new frictions and steels.
Followed the manual. Measured everything.
It runs and moves great.... only it stalls when pulling the cluch lever pulled in when downshifting/ engine breaking. As well the idle dips way below 1000rpm sometimes when I pull in the lever ...
Almost like the plates are not separating.
Any help would be great.
Aswell, when I put i the old pack, it runs fine ,other then it is not so strong like the new one.
 
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Parminio

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Stupid question but: Did you bleed your clutch line after the install?

Wondering if it may have some air in the lines and is not engaging fully which is causing the stall.
 

Eric Levitz

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Stupid question but: Did you bleed your clutch line after the install?

Wondering if it may have some air in the lines and is not engaging fully which is causing the stall.
Yes I did... and the old pack works.. its just the new one that has the issue . Its as if when I pull in the lever the pack doesn't fully dis engage and shuts off the engine. But no issues taking off , and no creep forward at a light .
 

Eric Levitz

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I'll ad that id does disengage enough to stop turing the tire and shut off the engine. Supper fruterating that I cant find an answer or possibility.
 

Fire-medic

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Ok, questions:

whose friction discs?

what oil?

OEM pressure plate?
 

Eric Levitz

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50?

What on earth for?
I am in a verry hot climate.... middle east . Do you think this could be the issue? Should i swich to 10-40. The clutch functions probably witv the old clutch pack.... its just a bit tierd as it has 35000 miles on it . I wanted a new and strong one.. the new one feels great other than the stalling on decel with cluch leaver pulled in.
 

Eric Levitz

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Ill state again.. I see a red light, shift from 4tv to third or third to second then pull in the cluchleaver and the bike has stalled before it stops moving . Pull up to the light, turn it off and on real fast. Hit the start button and it fires up again and then I can take off.
 

Parminio

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The hotter metal is, the more it expands, so you don't want a thicker oil. Not saying that is your problem, but I wouldn't run 50 weight oil unless the engine was so worn out it smoked as it sat at idle.
 

paulharland

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I had a stiff and locking clutch lever, and the clutch would not engage fully. I found that the old rubber hydraulic hose where degrading since 1985 and left a black and hard deposit on the clutch slave cylinder wall....binding up the piston. I can imagine that if you have this same issue the piston may be binding and not retracting. The deposit was easy to hone out with 1000 grit wet and dry.
 

Eric Levitz

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I had a stiff and locking clutch lever, and the clutch would not engage fully. I found that the old rubber hydraulic hose where degrading since 1985 and left a black and hard deposit on the clutch slave cylinder wall....binding up the piston. I can imagine that if you have this same issue the piston may be binding and not retracting. The deposit was easy to hone out with 1000 grit wet and dry.
But it works with the old cluch pack no problem. Only with the new one is there an issue.
 

MaxMidnight

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I'm no expert on the Gen II but have taken the following from the Service manual. From what yoy are describing I suspect that the overall thickness of the clutch pack is out of spec.

As the steel plates are available is different thicknesses I would first check which ones have been supplied'

Measure the thickness of the new friction plates which should be between 2.92–3.08 mm and the steels which should be 1.90–2.10 mm? (std is 2.0 mm)
Also note the following:
The clutch plate thickness specification listed above is for the plates with the standard thickness
only. If a clutch plate with one of the other two plate thicknesses is installed, use 1.50–1.70 mm (0.059–0.067 in) or 2.50–2.70 mm (0.098–0.106 in) for the specification according to the
plate.

Have you measured the total width of the friction plates and clutch plates which should be 45.5–46.1 mm?

• This step should be performed only if the friction plates and clutch plates were replaced.
• To measure the total width of the friction plates and clutch plates, combine 9 friction plates and
9 clutch plates as shown.

a. Adjust the total width by replacing the clutch plate “1” and, if necessary, clutch plate “2”.
b. Select the clutch plate from the following table.

TIP
When adjusting the clutch assembly width (by replacing the clutch plate(s)), be sure to replace
the clutch plate “1” first. After replacing the clutch plate “1”, if specifications cannot be met, replace
the clutch plate “2”.

Clutch plate “1”
Part No. Thickness
47X-16324-00 1.6 mm (0.063 in)
2H7-16325-00 2.0 mm (0.079 in) STD
2H7-16324-00 2.6 mm (0.102 in)

Clutch plate “2”
Part No. Thickness
2H7-16325-00 2.0 mm (0.079 in) STD
2H7-16324-00 2.6 mm (0.102 in)
 
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