My 2007 Vmax-1200 starts OK. Runs OK. The battery is unable to rotate the engine when hot and radiator fan is ON. The battery seems absolutely OK when bike is cold. Do I need to change the battery or is this a normal phenomena with Vmax-1200?
Starter not able to rotate engine when fan is on
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Vincent Maxwell Ribaldry
Well-Known Member
Normal, look up hot start problems. I wired my r/r directly to my battery, problem solved.
Sean
Sean
wildweasel_pt
Well-Known Member
Your battery is not getting enough juice from the RR due a charging problem and then with the fan hanging on it won't allow for starter to operate properly. Other symptom is when bike is hot and fan kicks in the idle gets rough and the bike stalls due lack of energy to ignition circuit as its being drained by the fan.
Vincent Maxwell Ribaldry
Well-Known Member
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=19108
read this over
I think there were three things t hat cause this if I remember right,
1. Factory crimp from r/r to battery, 2. Plug in r/r line to battery cut out (direct run to battery)
3. Plug from stator (cut out and solder).
If that doesn't work you should test your stator to see if it is working right. You will have to test it cold and hot loaded and unloaded.
Sean
read this over
I think there were three things t hat cause this if I remember right,
1. Factory crimp from r/r to battery, 2. Plug in r/r line to battery cut out (direct run to battery)
3. Plug from stator (cut out and solder).
If that doesn't work you should test your stator to see if it is working right. You will have to test it cold and hot loaded and unloaded.
Sean
Your 07 already has the newer starter so I would be very suspect of the battery. I'd get it load tested to see if it's good/bad.
alorio1
Well-Known Member
#1 on all the above, but if all these check out OK you might want to consider getting a battery with more cranking amps. Check out the last few pages for the latest batteries with best performance............
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=113&highlight=battery&page=18
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=113&highlight=battery&page=18
Redbone
Well-Known Member
Great suggestions Sean but I'd like to add to your second point of adding a inline fuse (30 amp) close to the battery. Make sure to use at least a quality 12 ga wire as well.
Vincent Maxwell Ribaldry
Well-Known Member
+1 Redbone.
Sean
Sean
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
Battery first. Always. If it's not tip top then all the troubleshooting in the world looking for "other than battery" problems is meaningless.
You can have it load tested.
OR
You can read the voltage with motor not running, should be at least 12.5 or so, leave the meter on it and start it while observing battery voltage, your looking for the voltage dip while cranking. Voltage shouldn't drop to less than 10.0-10.5 minimum.
That constitutes a poor mans load test.
But a real load test is better.
You can have it load tested.
OR
You can read the voltage with motor not running, should be at least 12.5 or so, leave the meter on it and start it while observing battery voltage, your looking for the voltage dip while cranking. Voltage shouldn't drop to less than 10.0-10.5 minimum.
That constitutes a poor mans load test.
But a real load test is better.
Redbone
Well-Known Member
Question: Can you accurately check the battery voltage right after charging? I read somewhere that you need to wait for the surface charge to dissipate? or can you bleed off the surface charge somehow and check immediatly?
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
In my opinion no because your checking the residual charge from the charging system. I usually let it sit for a while till the battery decays to it's natural (for it) state. Mine takes a few hours, although I've checked it after sitting overnight just to make sure..
Maybe just turning they key on and hitting it with the headlight for a few moments and then see what it climbs back up to afterwards might do the same.....There are so many variables to battery state it's kind of tough to call
