Starter solenoid problem?

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Constantinos

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Just want to double check...I had hot starting problems, cold starting problems, had to jump start the bike 10 times this summer. The starter would just barely turn over and start the bike. Today I went to start it, no go. It just turned the engine once and then the starter did not seem to have any juice. Checked the battery voltage...good. Under load, good. After reading through the forum I shorted the solenoid and the engine cranked. Seems I need a new solenoid. Do I have this right?
 
In my opinion, no. The solenoid is either open or closed. If it's closed the bike will crank. Open, it won't.

I guess there COULD be a scenario where the solenoid has a high resistance, but if that is the case it would most likely be at the terminals. Perhaps removing the wires, cleaning the terminals, and reconnecting will help.

My very novice opinion would be that the starter could use a cleaning / rebuild. Over time they can get quite dirty internally, and slow cranking is the result. This is very common on old Goldwings, for example.

Now, someone with more experience specifically with VMax starters will likely be along soon to give you better information, but in my opinion it is not likely to be the solenoid.

EDIT: Check out this thread on starter rebuilds: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=12367
 
Is the solenoid getting good current with the start button operation? Isn't there a relay someplace in between?

At any rate, it's easy enough to pull the starter and clean it up and be certain it's brush plate is making good, solid contact with it's casing halves. That's also a good excuse to change out the antifreeze as I've found starter removal much easier when removing that coolant line. If that starter is the bike's original 85 version, I'd say it's time to pull it, and check it all out anyway.
 
It could be a solenoid though it's not real common (we've had to replace them a couple of times.) Jumping the solenoid and having it work eliminates the starter and main power wire to it. BUT, as noted you may want to check and verify that you are getting full voltage from the activation wire to the solenoid (blue/white wire).

This could be either degregated wiring or even dirty contacts causing voltage loss at the button.

Sean
 
Is the solenoid getting good current with the start button operation? Isn't there a relay someplace in between?

At any rate, it's easy enough to pull the starter and clean it up and be certain it's brush plate is making good, solid contact with it's casing halves. That's also a good excuse to change out the antifreeze as I've found starter removal much easier when removing that coolant line. If that starter is the bike's original 85 version, I'd say it's time to pull it, and check it all out anyway.

The starter solenoid is the relay activated by lower current start switch and delivering high current to starter. You close a low current switch to activate the closure of a high current switch (solenoid) to feed the starter.
 
Basically the starter solenoid was getting extremely hot to the touch when cranking the bike. I jumped started the bike as I mentioned numerous times in the summer because the starter did not seem to turn over the engine as quickly as it could have. Last time I tried to jump start it which was yesterday, the solenoid got very hot and the jumper cables also became hot as well. This tells me that the current is meeting some sort of resistance. After the jump attempt, the engine would not even crank anymore. I bypassed the solenoid with a screwdriver and the engine cranked. So I guess I need to replace the solenoid (it looks really old by the way). I would also like to replace the starter switch (get a good set off fleabay I guess) and the starter (get a four brush one) . Hopefully this will solve the problem once and for all because the wife is starting to lose patience with the bike :biglaugh:
 
I'm a bit slow and hopefully you got this fixed.
A good test to seyenif the solenoid is ok is to jump the exciter wire (the one Sean mentioned blue/white) to the positive battery terminal. If the solenoid is faulty, it won't crank. If it cranks OK then you have the afore mentioned voltage drop/resistance. In this case, one of the problems (in addition to the more obvious ones) could be the black box under the LH scoop. Its a combination flasher relay and starter relay.
 
i heard a different possibility.. they changed the gasket between my dynamo cover.. with not a gasket but with liquid gasket (because it was leaking oil a bit).. they told me the starter gear will now been stuck?? is this possible before i will change it back to a normal gasket (instead of liquid.. or should i do both?)
 
i heard a different possibility.. they changed the gasket between my dynamo cover.. with not a gasket but with liquid gasket (because it was leaking oil a bit).. they told me the starter gear will now been stuck?? is this possible before i will change it back to a normal gasket (instead of liquid.. or should i do both?)

I've seen this reported before so for the price of a gasket I would fit one before looking elsewhere.
I would put a smear of grease on both sides of the gasket when installing.
 
I'm a bit slow and hopefully you got this fixed.
A good test to seyenif the solenoid is ok is to jump the exciter wire (the one Sean mentioned blue/white) to the positive battery terminal. If the solenoid is faulty, it won't crank. If it cranks OK then you have the afore mentioned voltage drop/resistance. In this case, one of the problems (in addition to the more obvious ones) could be the black box under the LH scoop. Its a combination flasher relay and starter relay.

Careful with the year. Early Gen'1's grounded the blue and white wire to the solenoid, I believe. Correct if I'm wrong. The bullet connector on that wire has loosened on me before causing grief too.
 
i heard a different possibility.. they changed the gasket between my dynamo cover.. with not a gasket but with liquid gasket (because it was leaking oil a bit).. they told me the starter gear will now been stuck?? is this possible before i will change it back to a normal gasket (instead of liquid.. or should i do both?)
That gasket has to be there !!! That is probably half of your problem.
 
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