steering head bearing removal

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yukonerdave

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Hello

After the better part of a day I finally got the upper bearing races removed. The lower races, however, look even more stubborn. There is no lip at all to drive it out with a long screwdriver from above. One suggestion was to weld a bead directly onto it and use that to drive it out. I haven't got a welder, nor do I know anyone around with one. Any other suggestions? I suppose I could try to cut it with a dremel, but I'd prefer something with less risk of screwing something up if it would work.

Thanks!
 
Hello

After the better part of a day I finally got the upper bearing races removed. The lower races, however, look even more stubborn. There is no lip at all to drive it out with a long screwdriver from above. One suggestion was to weld a bead directly onto it and use that to drive it out. I haven't got a welder, nor do I know anyone around with one. Any other suggestions? I suppose I could try to cut it with a dremel, but I'd prefer something with less risk of screwing something up if it would work.

Thanks!

I got a pencil torch at the hdwr. store that I will try this winter, but I have no idea if it will work or not. FWIW.
 
Honestly, I would try to borrow or hire a welder if you can.

I used the dremel method, and it's a PITA - you have to do two cuts to get it out, it's VERY difficult not to cut/score the frame and it's in a really awkward place too..
 
Ya I figured that would be my best option at this point G. I tried cutting with a dremel, but it became apparent real quick that it was not going to be easy, like you say. I look into renting/borrowing something
 
They make 110v wire feed welders that maybe someone in your area has and can come over. You can cut on it and if you get into the steering head metal underneath I would not worry about it too much. That area of the chassis is very well built. I know a few have modified the race stop after the old one was out to give punch access for future removals.

Sean
 
u didn't happen to take pics for a write-up dave did ya? i might get my lower tripple p/c on exchange and would have the bearing replaced on it then. but i'd also do the top bearing too then and never done bearings before.
 
They make 110v wire feed welders that maybe someone in your area has and can come over. You can cut on it and if you get into the steering head metal underneath I would not worry about it too much. That area of the chassis is very well built. I know a few have modified the race stop after the old one was out to give punch access for future removals.

Sean

There is a hell of a good idea, just a couple little opposing notches above the race.....makes the dremel option look pretty good, perform both operations ATST. I like that...thanks Sean! :thumbs up:

danny
 
I also know of some folks who have drilled 2 holes in the retainer just big enough to use a pin punch to get the lower race out. Then just silicone the hole closed when done. I used the dremel to cut a slot then used a chisel to crack the race. Those races are quite brittle so if you can get a slot in it and get a good enough smack on it with the chisel it will fracture.
 
Hey thanks for the ideas. How often do these need to be replaced? Do I need to worry about doing this job again??? Haha. I'll try dremelling that sucker. Not quite sure yet how I would cut notches to make the job easier next time, but the drilling idea's not bad. Any other thoughts on it - would 2 small holes in the tube weaken it any? I'll have another look at it. I've also got to get the bearing itself off of the lower triple now - needs a lot of persuasion. Will a bearing puller latch onto it with the steering stem sticking out so far?

Gamorg I haven't taken pics yet, but I would be happy to do a write up when I put everything back together. I've got the entire front end in pieces, and I'm planning to p/c everything. I'm set up with a blasting cabinet and an old oven ($30 at a garage sale!), just waiting for my craftsman powder coating system in the mail this week. :)
 
If you are going to use the dremel, you might want to try a Carbide burr bit as your cutter. It will cut cleaner and not wear down like a regular stone bit. The down side is that carbide is brittle, and breaks easily if it grabs. Be sure to wear long sleeve shirt and safety glasses, the chips from carbide are nasty!
 
IMG_7032.jpg
 
I ended up getting a small grinding wheel for the dremel, then I make a couple of indentations just above the race. Just enough to grab it with a flat head screwdriver:
IMG_7033.jpg


I did this AFTER cutting the race up with a cutting disc and banging on it with a chisel. That just didn't work for me. I recommend just making the indentations first and banging it out from above.

Thanks again for the help!
 
Well done Dave! Now that you've got that SOB off, did you get the other one off the stem yet?

I got so pissed with it I ended up cutting it as well!

Oh, and I hope you bought OEM replacements from McCoy - I made the mistake of getting ones from Python and they were useless - bottom one wasn't sealed!
 
LOL

I had the rollers/inner race pressed off by a machinist at CarQuest. A well spent $10. I was about to try cutting them, but I was more concerned about cutting into the stem than I was about cutting into the frame. My replacements came from Sean.

Now I've gotta figure out how to press the new outer races into the frame tube. Any suggestions? I was thinking about buying a large socket to bang them in. I'd rather not bang directly on the race itself.
 
I think I found a length of tube (plumbing) to press the one on the stem down.

I used a suitable sized socket to hammer the top one in - I have a big box of oversized sockets that always comes in handy for that! Make sure to get a size that fit just right, or also you can use the old race if you didn't trash it yet..
 
take your old race and grind/sand the outside of it down a bit so it doesn't stick in there hard. Then use it as your spacer between your new race and driver/hammer.

Or you can install it so the lip of the second (used race) will let you drive it back out.

Sean
 
I guess you know this but put it in the freezer for a couple of hours.
Also I put a 500 watt shop light on the steering head and had no problem tapping the new races in useing the old ones as a drift.
 
Huh - it took a Newfie to think of that! Thanks for the suggestion Broook, and others. I have her down to frame, engine, swingarm, and radiator now, so I'm thinking that I'll wait a bit before reinstalling. I'd like to do something about repainting / polishing the frame and engine. Going to look around for some tips on that...
 
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