Stock needle setting?

[hederstedt]

Just found out that some tool has been working on my bike. One membrane was not in its groove an one needle layed in the trottle.
Got about 20 horspowers more when I fixed it, but low rpm mixture is way off. Idle-screws are out 5? turns.
The needles was set to its lowest possible setting, that cant be stock or?
Wats the stock settings?

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Just found out that some tool has been working on my bike. One membrane was not in its groove an one needle layed in the trottle.
Got about 20 horspowers more when I fixed it, but low rpm mixture is way off. Idle-screws are out 5? turns.
The needles was set to its lowest possible setting, that cant be stock or?
Wats the stock settings?

Some have said that when they pulled thier idle screw plugs the first time that they weren't all the same from the factory but I belive 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 turns out is pretty normal for factory settings.

 

[lankeeyankee]

Just found out that some tool has been working on my bike. One membrane was not in its groove an one needle layed in the trottle.
Got about 20 horspowers more when I fixed it, but low rpm mixture is way off. Idle-screws are out 5? turns.
The needles was set to its lowest possible setting, that cant be stock or?
Wats the stock settings?

Stock needles arent adjustable I dont believe. If you have notches on your needle than you have aftermarket ones installed from a jet kit.
I usually adjust my idle mixture screws to the EGT. They avg about 2.5-2.75 out

 

[hederstedt]

Stock needles arent adjustable I dont believe. If you have notches on your needle than you have aftermarket ones installed from a jet kit.
I usually adjust my idle mixture screws to the EGT. They avg about 2.5-2.75 out

I was not really clear with what I meant; The bike do not run at idle at all unless I turn out the idle screws 5? turn (ore use the chooke) - even when warm.

Are you sure that the stock needles arent adjusteble. I have ~5-7 grooves and a clip on mine. ??

 

[one2dmax]

only adjustable stock needles were canadian models (some overseas may have it too).

EGT means Exhaust Gas Temperature

Usually set the A/F to best idle which may or may not be the same for each cylinder. I do tend to set them all the same myself at about 2 to 2.5 turns. You may need to clean up a couple of the carb circuits to get it to idle correctly or even change out a couple of the jets.

First thing we would need to help you would be the entire setup. Exhaust type, current jets, ect...


Sean

 

[hederstedt]

only adjustable stock needles were canadian models (some overseas may have it too).

EGT means Exhaust Gas Temperature

Usually set the A/F to best idle which may or may not be the same for each cylinder. I do tend to set them all the same myself at about 2 to 2.5 turns. You may need to clean up a couple of the carb circuits to get it to idle correctly or even change out a couple of the jets.

First thing we would need to help you would be the entire setup. Exhaust type, current jets, ect...


Sean

My max is probably sold in the USA and was imported to sweden 2 years ago. V-boost. Due to an accident (woman in a car who reversed in to it in a parking lot) The exhoust-system is changed to the 100 hp version. (apperently the only avalible at the time) witch I opend up a littli bit (the trick with 8 mm holes inbetween the rivets and the distanced the rear shield a bit.) Apart from that I assumed unill now that the rest was stock.
I Cant say witch sizes of jets I have. I did not really payed any attension to what stood on them as I had it apart.


My Max ran fine (but lacked power - me unknowely) untill it started to run on only tre cylinders. I felt that it was rear left cylinder that did not got as warm as the rest.
When I started the bike without the airbox I noticed that front right cylinders thottle did not move like the rest and that there was no needle whatsoever front left. :confused2:
Front right membrane was not fitted as it shuld in the groove
Front left needle layed in the trottle but the bottom plastic bit was missing.

Then I removed the idle-mixture screws after notecing that they where 3? turn from bottom. I removed the jets above and the ones you see from the intake of the carb. Then I cleaned as good as I could with white spirits and compressed air.
I put everything back together as I it should be.
ANd suddenly the bike only Idled with chooke. 5? turn on the idle-screws was needed to make it run without chooke at idle. I know that its to much.
It runs on all four again at least.
The bike feels ruff at low rpm:s, hesitates a little bit when I turn the trottle.
Im very happy that it suddenly goes like a bat out of hell att higher rpms now. But I would like so sort out the low rpm as well.
My guess is that the needles and the membrane to the front carbs have been like that for a while and somebody as adjusted mixture as well as possible to compensate for that.
So I would like to get it back to stock - or as close as possible and then go from there.

If there are aftermarket needles it should be dynojet stage 1 or am I wrong? How do they recomend basic setting?

 

[4gasem]

Sounds like you need to shoot the shotgun to me...

Check out the VMF links for the link to the how to.

Chris

 

[one2dmax]

after all of that did you resync the carbs. They may have been synced with the old settings which will be way different now that they are put together correctly. I'd try that first. Did it have a stock exhaust on it before the wreck or an aftermarket header?

Sean

 

[hederstedt]

after all of that did you resync the carbs. They may have been synced with the old settings which will be way different now that they are put together correctly. I'd try that first. Did it have a stock exhaust on it before the wreck or an aftermarket header?

Sean

I did not remove the carbs from the bike, I did the "quick fix" with the carbs still on. Just so that I would be able to trdive this coming weekend.
I just want it go as good as possible for now, the coming winter I will tear them apart completly and ultra-sound-wash them.

It had a stock Full power-exhaust. (a little bit more open)

 

[one2dmax]

ok, you still didn't answer if you synced the carbs. If you haven't you need to. Will make a big difference I am sure.

Sean

 

[hederstedt]

ok, you still didn't answer if you synced the carbs. If you haven't you need to. Will make a big difference I am sure.

Sean

Well, I'm sure that a sycronation would be a good thing. Have not done that. Thats one reason that I keept the carbs on while cleaning them.
Thinking; they may be off, but not THAT much.

And of course, if somone has atempted to sync them beeing the way they was. Thats one thing thats way off now. On the other hand - a mecanic with the know how to work a set of sync-clocks - would understand that something was not right and find the missaligned membrane and the missing needle.

I still would like to know how my needles should be set. But sence they probbably are aftermarket - I do belive that I just will have to raise them a notch at the time untill I can get my idle-screws to more resonable posisions. And then work my mid speed screws one at the time untill it runs fine and spark plugs looks good.

I can also add that I only had the bike for about a month - so Im still getting to know it. Bought from a doctor who did not know anything about bikes (more than how you drive em of course) - So I cant ask him.