Stuck in first

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Jhbox13

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So I got this '85 vmax but three weeks ago. Had been sitting up and guy couldn't getting it going after replacing the stator.

I got it, replaced a cracked pickup coil, clean carbs, and replaced some bad plugs, presto it works.

Today, I took it out of the parking lot for the first time, just down the road about a half mile. I was nearly back when I noticed some grinding as I tried to shift out of second. I got it to neutral and then to first, but now it won't shift to neutral or second....

Any ideas what's going on here gents? There's no griNing or anything when I try to shift, it just seems straight up frozen in place
 
Clarification:

Yes, the clutch lever depresses fine, and hasn't got limp

Yes, the shift lever will move, but it doesn't seem like it's as much as it should
 
Check the fluid in the master cylinder? Mine had all kind of water and gunk in there. Was fine and then one day wouldnt shift out of neutral.
 
Check the fluid in the master cylinder? Mine had all kind of water and gunk in there. Was fine and then one day wouldnt shift out of neutral.

Clutch I'd fine, I think it may be the shift segment. My fluid levels are good, no water
 
This just happened to me last week. My 1997 would shift only up into 2nd gear after leaving my house so I turned around and grabbed my back-up bike. After fiddling with the shifter the next day, it became stuck in first gear and would not go into neutral.

From this forum, I found out there was an improved solid design shift selector segment that came out in 1999, so I ordered the parts from Sean.

Pulled the clutch basket yesterday and found the selector segment had a portion of the ear missing at the 3 o'clock position and another ear bent away from the pin at 7 o'clock. The pin at 3 o'clock was sticking out as seen in the pictures.
All pins are accounted for and I'm hoping the missing ear is stuck on the magnetic drain plug. I'll check that after I drain the oil and before I button it up.


nbpsie.jpg


2n3h5i.jpg


Here is a pic I borrowed from richwrench of the old design on the left verses the new model on the right:

2lsguwi.jpg
 
So as you'll see in the first picture, looks like we were spot on with the shift segment problem.

But alas it is not so simple. See picture 2 and 3. I ruined a T30 wrench and naturally buggered up the head of the bolt holdng the segment in place....

No problem, I'll drill a guide and back it out with an extractor. My reverse bit broke off in it....

Ok, Guess I'll drill the head off and get a set of vice grips on it and twist it. All the vice-gripping power I can muster isnt doing it...

Gents, any bright ideas to get this thing out of here?
 

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Best bet would be weld a nut on there.

If that's out if the question I'd get some heat on that bolt to break the loctite and try the vise grips again or, double nut that stud if it's not too mangled.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Best bet would be weld a nut on there.

If that's out if the question I'd get some heat on that bolt to break the loctite and try the vise grips again or, double nut that stud if it's not too mangled.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Two nuts may work. I would just apply heat but I'm very hesitant to bust out the torch on this one, for obvious reasons.
 
Yeah I'm going to give it a whack with a small torch and two nuts and see what I can make happen
 
Just thinking out loud how bout a soldering iron to apply heat to only that location? Obviously would take a long, long time but you wouldn’t risk overheating anything else. Also with the vice grips on the stud while turning give it some light taps with a hammer to break it loose.


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Just adding to the ideas.. With that pencil torch, I would try to heat up the surrounding area,, not the bolt itself. for 3 reasons.
1) you need the female bolt hole expanding a touch, not the bolt..
2) Being that you've already snapped off the head of that bolt, you have an idea of how much force you used to break it.. Imagine putting the same or less force and it snaps off because heating the bolt, changed the properties of the metal??
3) If Locktite was used on the bolt, once you clamp a vicegrip on it, along with heat and steady pressure will allow the Locktite to loosen, and allow the bolt to give..
A sharp whack could cause the bolt to sheer off.
Good luck with that..
 
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