T-boost question

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RaWarrior

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As I was going over my ignition system(figuring out which wires were + and - for the COP mod), I noticed something (possibly) strange. The p/o of my bike installed a t-boost, there's a little 3 position switch that selects "off", 3k, or 6k. Three wires go from the switch to a little circular box velcro'd to the stock boost controller, and this little circle has one male/one female harness connector that places it "in between" the factory connector. One wire runs back and is tapped into the (-) wire of the left rear coil.

However, the right rear connector shows varying voltage with the key on, depending on the boost switch position. All three other connectors show zero voltage. With the switch "off" it reads about .8 volts, at 6k about 1.1 , and at 3k about 1.4. What's with this? Since I've been chasing an intermittent misfire, I'm being suspicious of anything I see even slightly out of the ordinary. Even with the key off it reads about .05 volts. Is there an explanation for this?

The t-boost has always worked perfectly BTW, so I have to assume it was installed correctly. A side note is that when the misfire is occuring in the 4-6k midrange, moving the switch to 3k usually cures the misfire and perks the bike up like usual. Switching it to off has no effect.

Any thoughts?
 
I say RIP IT OUT and go all natural! 80's style man. Boost the way it was intended. They were great cheater mods in the day but sometimes cause problems, maybe you have one.
 
It's interesting to hear your Tboost has always worked - with COPs.

I tried installing it (twice) after going to COPs, and it's never worked for me. On (6k) works fine, Off is all good, but the 3k position makes my Vboost open at 9000rpm instead of 3000. Could never work it out, never could the Tboost seller. Crap.
 
Nah....I haven't installed COP's yet...I ordered the sticks/harness off ebay....from a '07 R6. (shortly after I bought your coils I stumbled across the COP mod) Should be in Friday. After I install the COP's, first I'll try leaving the t-boost as is, and if the problem persists, I'll disconnect it. If it causes some issue making the boost open at 9k with COP's I'll just remove it. I can count the times I've used "3k" on one hand within the last year. It makes mileage too bad to run it all the time, and during hooligan speeds on the highway I'm well into the stock 6k range anyway.

The bike is "torn down" now, and I was going to leave it like that until the sticks show up Friday so I can install them. I want to test if disconnecting the t-boost fixes the problem, but I don't really want to put the bike back together to go for a ride only to tear it down agan a day later. Not a ton of work, but I'm kind of lazy like that. I guess I can just hook the ignition back up, put the seat back on, and go for a rip naked-bike style.
 

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