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RadiumPHX

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2021
Messages
124
Reaction score
117
VMax Year
2007
I am just beginning my adventures with the VMAX, got it a month ago. Its an 07 with 1800 miles on it and has sat since 2010 so I have a lot of work to do before she is roadworthy. The carbs are in need of cleaning as she is only running on the right side cylinders.
vmax_cl (2).png
 
Nice! Lost the fender?

Lots of help to be found here getting her squared away.
I have the front fender. the previous owner apparently looped the bike, slid on the right side and then parked it. When purchased, the fender was off the bike with laughable attempt at repairing it. I've got a list of both cosmetic and mechanical repairs going.
 
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This will help you: (93) New Vmax Owner FAQs....new members please read! | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)

Please consider adding your bike year and model changes in your signature, and your location in the avatar space, to help people know what you've done and where you are. That may help in parts acquisitions/sales, and riders local to you who may be available to help.

Increase your voltage by soldering your crimp hidden underneath wrapped insulation, here's where it is.

VMax electrical crimp.01.jpeg.jpgVMax electrical crimp.02.jpeg.jpg
 
Where are you located? That looks like the bike my buddy owned. Obviously they all look alike but a couple small things makes me think that may be his old bike. Thanks
 
Where are you located? That looks like the bike my buddy owned. Obviously they all look alike but a couple small things makes me think that may be his old bike. Thanks
I picked up the bike in small town called Dexter, Oregon at the end of a road called Rattlesnake Rd.
 
WTF?! I live in Eugene and would have been in Dexter in about 7 minutes if I knew there was another V for sale in the neighborhood!
I live in Ashland, the bike was on CL for about 9 minutes, I called and locked it in and was on the road in 30 minutes:) I've been wanting a VMAX for while:)
 
11 years sitting - check over the tyres - there should be a moulding for year/month when they were manufactured; replace all fluids and check over brakes.

cleaning the carbs out, especially the pilot jet (if you are carefukl, the jet block can be removed without tearing the gasket but it is useful to haver spares) will be the biggest PITA, after you've done it once, next time is much quicker .... don't ask how I know that
 
Well, performed a shotgun which had no effect on the left cylinders, still missing. I can hear backfiring (puffs) into the intake, I found what looks to be a slight carbon residue on the tops of the carb diaphragms/slide on the white plastic ring. The bike will not start cold with the choke and once started the choke kills the bike, throttle has to be cracked about an 1/8 to start. Front left plug is black but dry (rich), Rear left plug is normal, light brown. Symptoms seem to point to starving for air / rich condition , after going through many posts about running rich and carbs, I see this is been discussed a lot. Time to pull the carb set and fully clean and check.
 
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Symptoms sound familiar, so as above, remove carbs to make sure pilot jets are clear.
 
I am halfway through my Carb clean, emulsion tubes were coated in varnish and gunk, pilot jets totally plugged. One question, is the choke circuit prone to sticking? the jets being clogged explains the missing and poor idle, poor off idle but when starting the choke would prevent any starting at all (cold) and kill the bike when cold . I would expect the choke to help the clogged jets so I am suspecting the choke to be stuck on? any insight would be appreciated.
 
The choke has plungers that could be gummed up. You also need to check your air cutoff valves and make sure they're not fried.
 
The 'choke' is an enrichment circuit activated by brass plungers being pulled upwards by the forked-finger levers bolted-to the enrichment rods. The enrichment rods are linked together. It isn't uncommon to have those so-far out of adjustment that you have to do a 'cold-set' to bring them back into position, so when you lift the solid brass pistons (fiche #20) performing the enrichment function, by pressing down on the lever labelled 'choke,' they move in unison, and approximately the same-amount. A neglected bike may-have frozen brass enrichment pistons, requiring you to remove the gland nut through which passes the slender brass shaft of the enrichment piston onto-which the forked fingers actuate the rise/fall of the brass enrichment piston.

Tearing-down the carbs, split them into Left and Right pairs. There is normally no-need to remove the starting enrichment rods which run through both carb bodies, and the forked fingers. Look closely at the lower right, and you can see the enrichment piston's gland nut is loose, you can see the slender shaft of the piston, where the forked fingers 'grab' it, and the empty forked fingers by it. Carbs are upside-down.

You can easily remove the float bowls and the jet blocks, to access the pilot jets (fiche #42) and the main bleed pipes (fiche #44), next-to the pilot jets. Don't lose the rubber plugs (fiche #43 and 45) which go into the ends of the jet block tunnels for the pilot jet and the main bleed pipe, or the tiny O-rings (fiche #10) under the CV carb caps above the pilot screws (fiche #22). Please note there is a pilot jet (fiche #42) and a pilot screw (fiche #22) for each carburetor. They are entirely-different from one another.

VMax carb pairs left and right.jpg
VMax carburetor.png
VMax carb starter piston-air bleed -.png

2006 Yamaha V-MAX 1200 (VMX12V) Carburetor | Ron Ayers

VMX12- Service-Manual.pdf (vmoa.net)

Pilot jet (below, fiche #42)

VMax pilot jet pkg.jpg

Pilot screw (below, fiche #22)

VMax pilot screw pkg.jpg
 
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Update: got carbs cleaned, re-assembled and re-installed. Bike runs perfectly, all cylinders firing and same temp on the jugs, exhaust sounds as it should. new plugs in as well. I noticed some small cracks on the coils (plastic casing). Gonna test the resistance but doesn't seem to affect operation at this point. COP conversion in the near future:) Time to go for a ride !:)
 
Coil cracks of a cosmetic nature, not-affecting performance, are common. The primary COP's advantage is ease of replacement when one goes-bad.
 
Ok, Maiden voyage and first ever ride on a V-max. First impression: I love this bike!.... It certainly is no torque monster but then I've been riding a 2053cc V-Twin for the last 4 months so I may a bit jaded. She's got every bit of the 98HP/86Lb-Ft claimed. Very docile and good manners low down in the RPMs, things get interesting in 4th around 4500 RPM and then surge at 6000 just like everyone says. I ran out of room at 130 Mph. Suspension is pretty stiff and bone rattling but stable. All reports suggest this girl is not a corner taker but I beg to differ, very stable in the lean but I do believe some suspension work could sort this into a sweet canyon carver (not a knee dragger). She is worth putting in some more time and money - Fun! So for now the V65 gets her turn in the bay, valve adjust, oil mod kit, bar change and general maintenance:)
 
Yeah, that Vulcan is a land barge. You could in all likelihood put that big V-Twin in a Cooper Mini and have a decent match.
 
Yeah, that Vulcan is a land barge. You could in all likelihood put that big V-Twin in a Cooper Mini and have a decent match.
Yes, The V2K has a special place in my heart. She has her little piccadillys but all is forgiven when rolling on slams your butt into the seat and a long stretch is in front of you. The V-max feels tiny, flickable and nimble in comparison to the Land Barge:) Two different experiences, same wind, same bugs, same smiles:)
 
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