The wrong way to remove the back wheel?

[GetaGrip]

Originally I remove the back wheel probably the wrong way. At the time I did not know how easy it was to get off without removing shocks etc. but putting a new tank in all that stuff had to be removed anyway. So I ended up taking the four bolts out of the hub that connect to the swing arm and that’s how the back wheel came off for me with the shaft.
It was a little tricky putting the shed back up in there upon reassembly but I got it in bolted it all up and it just doesn’t seem like neutral is neutral it almost feels like it’s still in gear could I have possibly bounce something up or got something binding?

 

[Fire-medic]

I remove the bolts holding the rear caliper, and the wheel easily comes-off.

Are you sure the driveshaft is engaged in the U-joint? I've fussed for some time trying to get the splines engaged, and other times it's been only a minute or two.

 

[GetaGrip]

I found the easy way to do it after my tank was installed and I got all that other stuff done. Since then upon reassembly of the rest of the bike I have miss placed my cover that goes over the throttle cable connection I cannot find that so could not start the bike yet didn’t want to at least. So that’s when OCD kicked in and I started to detail calipers rotors and wheels. This time I did remove the wheel within minutes. (My first shaft driven moto) I look at the diagram and I don’t see anything that would cause the binding that I’m kind of feeling so I guess if I don’t have any major sounds or anything else comes from this area I’m gonna say it’s just the nature of the beast. When I’m done polishing up the back wheel I will drop it off the center stand and see how it does. I was just a little concerned when I rotated the back wheel. The sounds and what I felt that I had done something wrong or the other. I think I’m just used to the chain driven where you can spin the back wheel while it’s up in the air more easily.
Thank you
Sorry about the first post I did not proof read read. I’m still learning how to navigate around

 

[sdt354]

I found the easy way to do it after my tank was installed and I got all that other stuff done. Since then upon reassembly of the rest of the bike I have miss placed my cover that goes over the throttle cable connection I cannot find that so could not start the bike yet didn’t want to at least. So that’s when OCD kicked in and I started to detail calipers rotors and wheels. This time I did remove the wheel within minutes. (My first shaft driven moto) I look at the diagram and I don’t see anything that would cause the binding that I’m kind of feeling so I guess if I don’t have any major sounds or anything else comes from this area I’m gonna say it’s just the nature of the beast. When I’m done polishing up the back wheel I will drop it off the center stand and see how it does. I was just a little concerned when I rotated the back wheel. The sounds and what I felt that I had done something wrong or the other. I think I’m just used to the chain driven where you can spin the back wheel while it’s up in the air more easily.
Thank you

The rear wheel should turn freely in neutral. As long as the caliper isn't stickling. Like F.M. mentioned, make sure your splines are engaged correctly. Once 180 or larger tires are installed, loosening the four bolts for the swing arm to diff. is helpful. I always put the shaft in first then the differential.

 

[GetaGrip]

Shaft was not seated in u joint. As soon as I put it gear and started to let the clutch out. It made one revolution and I saw the tranny wobble and shut down. I took the back wheel back off pulled out the shaft and thankfully I didn’t destroy anything all the spline still look good hardly any shavings. Cleaned up both ends lightly greased them put it back together. Now it looks good And no abnormal sounds. I was gonna say now I’m having problems with my carbs but I actually think it is my tank is throwing up junk in my filter and clogging me up and screwing everything up. So here we go again. I’m second guessing that tank I installed. Someone else had already lined it(eBay) and I’m probably gonna end up yanking it out if it clogs up another filter. That is after I get it started again. I went and started trying to adjust my way to fixing the not idling problem. I was turning everything in out on off over upside down left and right. It’s maiden voyage to the dmv left me walking home today. Killed battery trying to start it. The took my truck up there and (didn’t have my truck running at the time) killed that battery. AAA membership had my truck on the road again. So gotta get it home on this next trip. Thanks for all the info very useful. I’m going back now on some of the older posts and seeing how bad I screwed everything up. You guys are great around here I just suck at navigating around so If I post something in the wrong spot just let me know where it goes or whatever I did wrong.

 

[Fire-medic]

Sean Morley, dammymax, CaptainKyle, and I will all-suggest that you remove the gas tank, (a good thread for that is on-here) and clean it again, stripping your previous owner's lining attempt.

What I've done to clean a gas tank, is to remove the fuel level sending unit, and install a blank-off plate in its place. Before I install the blank-off plate, I use a pressure washer (I have one that can attain 4,000 psi) to remove as-much as I can reach with my wand. Then I use a couple days of 6% vinegar to soak the tank, which has done the job for me. If you use something more-caustic, be sure to wear rubber gloves, eye protection, and a respirator is a good idea. You need to completely-remove the lining. You want the inside of the tank to be shiny-bright. If you get to that point, you probably don't need to re-line it. You can just put it back in-service. If you're not going to re-install it and fill it, immediately, then you need to protect your virgin metal interior from flash rust, it will rust before the inside completley dries. I usually use some cheap ATF, a quart into the tank, and then seal-off the tank, and rotate the tank in all-directions to entirely-coat all interior surfaces. You can leave the ATF in-there until you are ready to fill it with gasoline. Removing your blank-off plate and allowing movement of the tank to ensure all ATF is drained, then re-installing the fuel sender unit, and checking for a good sender sealing (no leaks) and you can re-install the tank. Fill it with gas, and make sure that you change the gas filter, and you should be good to-go. The tiny amount of ATF still on the tank interior isn't going to cause any issues with a full tank of gas.

Assuming you have a bike that will start and run, I often find that a bike which won't idle probably is extremley out of synch, or it has a vacuum leak or leaks. Of course, it could be both. Then gain, if you're clogging gas filters with poorly-applied tank liner material, you probably have clogged pilot jets (part #42). In my experience, removing the carbs, splitting them into two pairs, and removing the float bowls and jet blocks (part #32), to access the pilot jets is the best way to clean them. You also remove and clean the main bleed pipe (part #44). Blowing-out the carburetor passages is mandatory, as you have them opened and torn-down.

You should have on-hand the jet block gasket (part #35) before opening things, because they often tear-apart in removing the jet block upon disassembly.


Part #35
Gasket (jet block)

3JB-14199-00-00
$9.41
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/500456a5f8700209bc79313a/carburetor

 

[GetaGrip]

Well nothing beats practice, that is if one was trying to attain a certain level of expertise. Never had to clean out a tank prior. I know I’ve told others... hey your tank got issues. Your filter clogged you big dummy,hello??? I just wanted to ride it today. Last awesome day that will probably have around here. So spent all last night and most of today till about 4ish installing a freakin weed eater gas tank(plastic no metal here) cuz I’m going to ride this thing one way or another. Again the stars did not align enough for more than a choke to start and less then 15sec all hands on deck to try and keep running. Makes for a short ride, but on the up side if you want to call it that. I did not have to push this monstrosity of a bike that weighs four times what I weigh or at least three times what I weigh I just know it’s heavy and pushing it for more than 30 feet is unspeakable but mile and three-quarter maybe 2 miles I had to push it back home the last time. Never again. This one was the original tank that came with the bike I had cleaned that one out and was installing it on the bike and once I had the inside of the tank all shiny I put gasoline in it. thought it was good to go. I was thinking it was good to go, drain it to put it on the bike and saw brown gas??? That’s when I looked inside of it and rust again..... i’m gonna pull it all apart again carbs and everything go through them I just have to straighten my garage up before I do that because I completed plan C and it shows.
Thank you guys for all your advice and help and I’ll keep plugging away at this. But now I’m going to bed. (VMax-3 / Mike-0)

 

[Fire-medic]

To prevent rust, a full tank is better than a partially-full tank. Especially over an idle winter. Add some gas stabilizer to it, search for a station selling 100% gasoline, no ethanol & gas. Use that for the winter storage.

About your weedeater gas tank lash-up: was it to just see it run, and not to ride it? I suspect the outlet on the weedeater gas tank is too-small to feed the VMax at other than idle.

When I was just getting interested in motorcycles as a teenager, I went to the local Honda dealer to see the bikes in the showroom, and to watch the comings & goings. I was surprised to see a kid with a CB160 ride-up, he was holding a glass jar between his legs, filled with gasoline! He was checking on the dealership's repair work on his gas tank, which they had, so no gas tank on his bike, except for the mason jar. Not very-safe, not much range, but it got him down the road to the dealership. This was when the biggest road-burner Honda had was the CB450, with its 'hairpin-spring' valve springs. One of my older brothers had a low-miles Honda C110 50 cc bike, I used to steal the key and ride it around the fields by our home. One of my friends had just-bought a Bultaco Campera 175 cc enduro bike, and that was my first intro to riding off-road. Fifty-plus years, and probably 25-plus bikes later, I'm still attracted to that dangerous world of motorcycling.