Thermo switches to solve overheating

[firefly]

Here are some part # for the thermal switch that turns the fan on a little earlier than stock: 1- BORG-WARNER TFS-545,
2-WELLS-SW537 ,3-Nissan sentra 1988

I am using the Nissan one but it is $65 from the dealer Vs the others I heard are ~$20.00 from any auto store, you can just ask for the Nissan one and they will give you the correct one.

When I first bought my 2003 ~ November in CA the bike was overheating badly if I get stuck in traffic, so I bought the Nissan one and since then the bike never overheated even in very heavy traffic ( but I usually never get stuck because lane splitting is LEGAL here

When connecting the thermal switch do not worry about polarity here is why, the body of the switch contacting the metal of the engine is the -ve, and the two terminals of the switch are just an interruption of the flow of the +ve , ask at any auto parts store which sealer to use for this application and they will recommend one.

Its also a good thing to flush the cooling system if you haven't in the past year or if your bike was stored for winter, It was recommended by people who know to use
Toyota factory red coolant, just get it from the dealer $23, its made specifically for aluminum radiators and does not contain silicates the damage the water pump seals. its concentrated so mix 50/50 with distilled water.

I used it and my cooling system is super clean!
firefly

 

[Buster Hymen]

Now a sticky! :banana:

 

[KRL0215]

yeah, I def need to get one of those switches. With my new job I get stuck in a little traffic on the way home. Ive noticed that the temp of the engine is getting up there and thats with temps in the 60-70's, Im sure it will be worse when it gets into the 90's

 

[shawn kloker]

I recommend a manual bypass switch.The replacement switchs come on early ok but never shuts off till the bike cools down after parking it.The fan runs needlessly when not needed.Maybe I am a control freak.I have no problems deciding when to turn it on and off.

 

[firefly]

I recommend a manual bypass switch.The replacement switchs come on early ok but never shuts off till the bike cools down after parking it.The fan runs needlessly when not needed.Maybe I am a control freak.I have no problems deciding when to turn it on and off.

It depend on what weather you have in your area, I started out with a manual one but found it not very practical in traffic , this gave me no problems since I installed it two Los Angels summers in heavy traffic.
________
Yamaha Mio history

 

[one2dmax]

I recommend a manual bypass switch.The replacement switchs come on early ok but never shuts off till the bike cools down after parking it.The fan runs needlessly when not needed.Maybe I am a control freak.I have no problems deciding when to turn it on and off.

+2 (and many others I have setup) for the manual switch. We have tried the other switches and they all basically leave the fan running all the time when it gets to temp.

The manual works very well and is a cheap install. About $3 and 10 milutes with no coolant loss or wire cutting / splicing involved.

 

[KRL0215]

I dont even think my fan is even working. I cant remember the last time I heard it run

 

[maleko89]

Ken, it's easy to test. Just remove your right scoop and disconnect the fan switch connector. Now, use a jumper wire across the connector and your fan should run when the key's on.

 

[KRL0215]

cool, I will look into that. Thanks

 

[Madmax Finarc]

I would like to give your suggestion a try. My 05 Max has shown some overheating issues in the past month... basically when I ride for awhile ( hard or not ) and come to a red light or have to stop for a bit the needle rises above the screw in the temp guage and it hasn't really done this before.
I emptied the coolant res and flushed the rad with the coolant drain bolt but cannot figure what tool is needed to remove the engine plugs.
As well, not sure if the themo is gummed up as I noticed some black junk came out when I flushed it.
Any thoughts on if I need to remove the engine plugs?
Thanks.

 

[maleko89]

M.F., it's normal. The bike does get a bit toasty but it's not over-heating. You can put a different fan switch in so it comes on a bit sooner. That's what I did, gauge doesn't go above middle screw. You want the Borg warner TFS545. To remove the cylinder drain plugs, screw a sparkplug in there and pull. Be ready to catch the coolant.

 

[Robbarrie]

I was just going over this thread and by the way I can't read the first post. The color of the text makes it way too hard to read.

I was having heat issues so I did install a manual fan switch and a simple rad flush and clean (fins) at that time . I flushed the rad and the engine this time with the garden hose and put in some water wetter in it. It helped but still was having problems...I was going to then change the thermo switch but decidced to go with a thermostat change instead.

I changed the original thermostat with an alternative one - which was only like 14 bucks compared to the 56 dollar one the stealer wanted to sell me. See "alternative thermostat" thread for the part number.

I also used my pressure washer to flush out the system one more time before I installed it and even more shit came out.

In conclusion to all this, try and change the thermostat and flush the rad and system out really well. It runs perfect at the half way point with very little change no matter the traffic, outside temp and how hard I ride it after that. The fan has never come on either. So there really wasn't a need for the manual fan switch, water wetter or changing the thermo switch either...ect - if your having heat (cooling) issues I suggest you change the thermostat (with the Napa one - which costs less ) and flush the best you can first before going on to do anything else. I just wanted to mention this, as this was my experience not just my thoughts...

 

[forestdaledave]

I use a manual switch along with OEM switch. Acts as a back-up if I forget. I put a light emitting diode next to the switch so at night I can see if the fan is on. Remove the cly. plugs with the top screw portion of a sparkplug.
Dave #3505

 

[4gasem]

I use a manual switch along with OEM switch. Acts as a back-up if I forget. I put a light emitting diode next to the switch so at night I can see if the fan is on. Remove the cly. plugs with the top screw portion of a sparkplug.
Dave #3505

I went to Auto-Zone and got lucky. They had some small round switches with an led in it. It's black with a little red LED. Cost... .50 cents...:thumbs up:

It looks factory!

 

[Redbone]

I was just going over this thread and by the way I can't read the first post. The color of the text makes it way too hard to read.

Not much I can add to this post other than if the text is too hard to read you can just highlight the text and presto! it's easy to read.:banana:

 

[COP RUNNER]

MY MAX IS AN "06" I BOUGHT IT NEW (LEFT OVER) IN 3/07 , WHEN I FIRST BOUGHT IT I WAS ON THE "V MAX OUTLAW" WEB SITE & I WAS LOOKING AT THIER TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS, & SAW THAT THEY SOLD A FAN SWITCH THAT REPLACES THE STOCK ONE, & MAKES THE FAN COME ON 20-30 DEG. SOONER,SO I BOUGHT IT & PUT IT IN, & 2,800 MILES LATER ITS STILL WORKING GREAT, I LIVE AT THE JERSEY SHORE, & THE SUMMER HEAT & TRAFFIC ARE BRUTAL, IT USED TO GO UP TO ABOUGHT 3/4, NOW THE HOTTEST EVER IS ABOUT 1/8 INCH BELOW HALF-WAY, I THINK THE KITS $45.00, IT COMES WITH CRIMP CONNECTORS, BUT I SOLDERED THEM & USED SHRINK TUBING, IT WORKED OUT GREAT !!!

 

[82ndCowboy]

Well, I don't know about all these mods. I have had my 06 through 2 of the Hottest summers in Florida now. And I sit in traffic everyday on My Max for an Hour, in blistering heat that would make Beelzebub sweat like a Chinese hoar. And without any mods my Max has never over heated.
However... Just to try it...
I just put in Engine Ice after doing my valve cover gaskets and flushing my cooling system.
So I guess I'll see if it's any better than the standard coolant!

:hmmm:

 

[Vitek]

I was just going over this thread and by the way I can't read the first post. The color of the text makes it way too hard to read.

I was having heat issues so I did install a manual fan switch and a simple rad flush and clean (fins) at that time . I flushed the rad and the engine this time with the garden hose and put in some water wetter in it. It helped but still was having problems...I was going to then change the thermo switch but decidced to go with a thermostat change instead.

I changed the original thermostat with an alternative one - which was only like 14 bucks compared to the 56 dollar one the stealer wanted to sell me. See "alternative thermostat" thread for the part number.

I also used my pressure washer to flush out the system one more time before I installed it and even more shit came out.

In conclusion to all this, try and change the thermostat and flush the rad and system out really well. It runs perfect at the half way point with very little change no matter the traffic, outside temp and how hard I ride it after that. The fan has never come on either. So there really wasn't a need for the manual fan switch, water wetter or changing the thermo switch either...ect - if your having heat (cooling) issues I suggest you change the thermostat (with the Napa one - which costs less ) and flush the best you can first before going on to do anything else. I just wanted to mention this, as this was my experience not just my thoughts...

This what I'm ready to do. I got NAPA thermostat and Toyota coolant. I just have to figure out how many O rings do I need

Vitek

 

[lankeeyankee]

I recommend a manual bypass switch.The replacement switchs come on early ok but never shuts off till the bike cools down after parking it.The fan runs needlessly when not needed.Maybe I am a control freak.I have no problems deciding when to turn it on and off.

Why not change the hot wire over to a ignition switched hot wire such as off a fuse for the headlight? Than you will have best of both worlds. Fan comes on at 190 and turns off A) 189 B) When ignition is cutoff.

 

[richwrench]

FWIW - I'm running a Borg Warner fan switch # TFS545 & a Stant thermostat # 13758 ( 180 degree ) here in west central FL with no probs - gauge never rises above the dot - no manual over-ride switch for the fan , but I'm not pushing it as hard as others may be. Parts were in stock at Advance Auto.